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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) "Rebuilding" lift pump?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Shift indicator not working

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) new vp44 has code p1693

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My input line is different than the diagram I've seen. Mine looks like this. Note the frayed grommet on left end.

Next pic is the exploded view of pump that was on truck.
 
Here we have a view of pump, looking into the priming chamber on left (pin removed). Note goo on washer inside.

Then a pic of the fuel that came from that chamber.
 
You should be able to buy Biocide at most truck stops or Big Rig Dealers. I bought an 89 that had been sitting for 4-5 years, it started up and ran instantly. But when it got cold out it kept quitting. Finally figured out it had water in it, froze in the line. Of course the tank was full. :rolleyes: I pulled the tank, full of black slime. I had to dump all that fuel as it was contaminated. I wiped out the tank with rags, dumped in some biocide, no more problems.

Pulling the tank isn't really all that hard, just run the fuel way down, and make sure you have a can of clean fuel on hand when you do it.
 
would like to know more about getting that biocide. How does a civilian go about procuring that kinda thing? I may do a combination of cures, and thanks for the info on dropping the tank...

Well I have this contact and if you have the cash well just send me a pm..... Just kidding,
If you cant find it a truck or agriculture supply place I know for a fact boat stores will have it or be able to order it. Algae in marine fuel tanks is a big problem so they will carry it
 
I get biocide at a marine hardware store. My fuel tank gets a dose of it about once a month. My algae episode with the fish boat really attracted my attention. I don't need that problem again.
 
My input line is different than the diagram I've seen. Mine looks like this. Note the frayed grommet on left end.

Next pic is the exploded view of pump that was on truck.



Rhonda the input line for the '98 12-valve is different than all other 12 valve years. Good work on this project!



TIP on reinstalling the lift pump (for those who don't want to fool with studs): Remove the large nut holding the "guts" in and remove the parts. That way you are not fighting the spring-loaded plunger and you can now install the "body" onto the engine. Then reinstall the LP innards.
 
Hey, hate to bother you Rhonda, but how about a follow up.



No bother at all! :) The truck has made a 100% comeback. She fires right up every time and there's no loss of power under throttle. My electric pump stays off now.



Here's what I did:

The grommet in the line on top of the pre-filter was trash - replaced;

The rubber elbow between pump and pre-filter was nasty - replaced;

It appears the seal around the plunger was allowing oil/fuel transfer - replaced lift pump;

Fuel filter and pre-filter were filthy - replaced both;

There is/was an algae problem (haven't addressed that yet);

Heater assembly premanently removed in case it was leaking too.

Replaced bolts to block with studs for super-easy installation.



I am still intrigued by the idea of actually rebuilding the pump itself and have kept it, so maybe some day... I'd need to contact a manufacturer who can provide not O-rings, but rather the correct washers and internal seals. Of course, if a pump is dying it could be the hard parts too, but in my truck's case I don't believe it is.

Vaughn, great suggestion, but I'd still do the studs. It is just so much easier not to have to "line up" the pump and heater assemblies while trying to find the holes for the bolts, all while hanging prone over the radiator/fender and stretching my midget arms like a baby reaching for candy. :-laf
 
Rhondasway,

Some time back I read an article about you and your 'Hot Rod Cummins', in one of my diesel magazines. To say the least, very impressive.

I would like to re-read that article, but I don't have a clue, as to where to look.

In case there is more than just one, I would be interested in any or all articles about your racing experiences, and maybe what your racing schedule is for 09?

Any direction on this would be appreciated.

Thanks, Ray
 
Darn, that is the part I was most interested in. Just wondering if I was right. I went thru the rest of the troubleshooting not long ago.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssion-1994-1998/204958-lift-pump-failure.html



I had read that thread; very informative. With the holidays and all the snow we've had lately I'm not undertaking anything that doesn't keep me from driving... :rolleyes: Taking chains on and off just to get out of my neighborhood is PITA enough!



Ray, the magazine you're thinking of is Diesel Power, Vol. 2, No. 07 from Sept. 2006. If you can't find it I could probably make a copy of the article and send it to you. I don't know of any other write-ups, but you can occassionally find a video on YouTube. There's one of me and Fletcher from this year but I blew a head gasket... :{ Also one from my dyno run in Vancouver - what you can't see are the sparks coming out of the stack!

Not sure about '09 schedule yet; too many variables. I'll post under competition and on NWBombers most likely when I make any decisions.

Oh, and thanks! :)
 
Hi Guys



I just finished writing a 3 1/2 page article on the Cummins fuel system and lift pump. This in depth article, covers the basics of the lift pump and why it's effciency is VERY LOW. This translates into low fuel pressure at WOT. Article number two will deal with the details, on what you can do to make make your Cummins fuel system more efficient. Having higher fuel flow and fuel pressure will make HP improvements much easier. I hope you like the article!



Feel free to send this article to your diesel friends. I want these tests to be in the hands of diesel owners and performance entusiasts.



All you have to do, to read this important article, is to copy and paste this link into your address bar.



The Cummins Lift Pump



Rob Parelli

Tork Teknology
 
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