Replacement Of Fuel Return Line Rubber Portion Under The Engine Intake Manifold, 1995

[dtex]

REPLACEMENT OF FUEL RETURN LINE RUBBER PORTION UNDER THE ENGINE INTAKE MANIFOLD, 1995



Questions:

1. When the hose is removed will fuel siphon from the tank?



2. If so, what has to be done so it will not?



3. After loosening the clamp(or removing it) that holds the input and return hose and line, and the hose at the manifold side, can the hose be REPOSITIONED so the existing clamp, and hose at the firewall end be removed, and the new hose and clamp installed, or is it necessay to remove something to be able to get to work on the firewall end of the hose?



4. Recommendation for the type of replacement hose which will have a longer life time?



5. After replacement of the hose will I have to go through the procedure for bleeding the air out of the system or will the engine start without doing it?



6. Have you done a replacement?

Comments and recommendations will be appreciated, thanks.

 

[eGarwood]

Same Subject...Different Question...

My question stems from my noticing that quite a few guys have stainless braided fuel lines and AN fittings listed in their sigs. I am going to be replacing my fuel lines soon... it's about due for another return line anyway. The last time I did it I swore I was going to replace all the stock lines with stainless aircraft/racing hoses and AN type fittings commonly available thru Aeroquip or Earls. I don't remember the specifics enough to respond to dtex's question, or I would, I just remember it was a BEAR to do!

Does anyone make a comlete 'kit' to convert all the stock fuel lines, from the hard line under the truck, forward thru the engine compartment, over to stainless braided and AN fittings? Or if not a complete kit, does anyone have a complete list of items I would need to do this convertion?

I want to do this to my 95 truck... see my sig. Any help here would be appriciated. Thanks... Ed3

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I changed mine 3 yrs ago.



You only lose the fuel from the line and to the P7100 pump (return). with the supply you don't lose much either.



I used marine (Cost Guard rated) hose as a replacement. You will have to chnage the clamps since the sidewall is thicker.



the marine standard is designed for use in the bilge and associated challenges. Make sure you get diesel rated hose.



I did the top end connections from the top and the bottom from uderneath. No parts HAVE to be removed, but pulling the driveshaft and/or the starter will give you better clearance. I think 40 inch skinny arms would make the job pretty easy, but otherwise it is a little aggravating.



Just use the manual button on the lift pump to restore fuel to the system.

 

[Joe G.]

dtex,



You can get a LOT more room to work if you remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the vacuum boost. Then lean the cylinder toward the fender. If that's not enuff room remove the fuel filter. The starter is pretty easy to remove too. While you are in there you might as well replace both hoses. Make sure the hoses are for diesel.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The hose clamp to the return line at the injection pump should be positioned so you can loosen it with a 1/4" drive extension and socket (the clamp on one end is usually 7mm and the other 6 mm). you can pop the quick disconect and remove the line with the piece of steel tubing near the bellhousing.



I removed the steel line at the pump one time I had the pump off. It is held in three places: by the overflow valve, by a bracket that goes under the 10mm headed bolt holding the pump down to a bracket, and at the rear with an 8mm head bolt into the pump governor housing at the corner near the engine. The last one is a real hassle when the pump is on the engine. I cut off the tab and don't use it any more. once this hassle is done, the line is easy to replace, especially if you reroute it outboard instead of tucking it so close to the engine, where it picks up a lot of heat and degrades faster. Use a 30R7 rated line (50 psi) such as most parts houses stock these days. Stock length is about 19-1/2" but if you reroute it, it can be a bit shorter.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I asked this before, but nobody responded... .



What size USCG diesel fuel rated hose do we need? Joe sez ~19. 5" long... ...



Matt

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

5/16" = 8mm diameter, 19 or 19. 5" long is stock.

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

5/16 inch ID for the return. 3/8 inch ID for the supply.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Okay... . cool.

2ft. of both is what I'll get.



Thanks a million guys/gals/family pets/livestock! (don't want to exclude anyone... )



Matt

 

[QRTRHRS]

Matt,



You may be thanking everyone now but you may be cursing later when you change out the lines. First time around, like a lot of things on this application, will challenge your skills and your ability to keep your cool.



I didn't look at your profile but you may want to have a fuel filter on hand. I know on my 97', having the filter cannister off helps much.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I've swore at my truck quite a few times... . but a whole lot less swearing than I inflicted upon my old truck... ...



I love this one enough to be patient and caring in it's maintenance and BOMBing.



Matt

 

[P Madrid]

I have lost count of how many fuel lines I done, twice on some trucks in a three year period. If any one knows of a kit with steel braided lines let me know. On 4x4 its easy to drop the starter and get to the lower lines, for the ones under the Int Man remove the fuel filter.

 

[Joe G.]

Hey Pablo,



Welcome aboard!! Glad to see you made it. We can sure use your knowledge!