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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing a Cab?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil leak

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It is amazing sometimes how much regulations for titles, sales tax, tags, etc. can vary from state to state.



The less populated states don't seem quite as strict as some.



I had researched buying vehicles from other states and found a few to avoid already such as Florida and Arizona if you are a Maine buyer. Have to pay the sales tax to that state and then file for a refund when you get the vehicle back to Maine. Just crazy.



If they don't keep it on you. :rolleyes:



Mike. :)
 
I did some checking in Illinois, and what I was told was that both titles (the truck for parts, and of course, the one being repaired) needed to be in your name, no open titles (= ticket). Then, call the Secretary Of State to come look at the project - BEFORE it is started, show titles, trucks, ect. THEY would then remove the VIN of both trucks and take them. When the project is finished, you call them again and they come and inspect, then install the vin on a new plate (will be matching the VIN on the frame) with the state seal, using THEIR rivots, usually on the door frame. Done.



I dont know if it will be rebuilt title or not, but it will be legal and straight. At least this is how it is done here.
 
Having talked to the Regional TX Motor vehicle Registration office in Lubbock on Monday about just such a situation('06 cab with no title going on an '07 truck), if you swap the cabs on a truck in Texas, you have to have it inspected by the Texas Auto Theft Task Force, who will then issue you a new title, showing the corrected VIN, and you can then legally register and insure it to drive. You have to schedule an appointment and bring the truck and $2 to thier office.



Insurance is a big question here, too. Most insurance companies just need the slightest excuse to not cover you in the event they're actually needed. Mismatched VINs might give them that excuse... ...
 
An insurance company cannot refuse to provide coverage in the event of a claim regardless of small crap like a cab replacement and altered VIN. That is internet or truck stop myth. I have never heard of an insurance company that refused to pay a claim.

I've been insured by USAA for 35 years. Have had very few claims over the years but about eight or ten years ago I had three costly home hail damage claims, and two totalled Airstream hail damage claims, all in the same year. In the same time frame over about a four year period I also had three under the slab plumbing leaks on one of my rentals. USAA paid for all of them and I'm still insured by the same company.

The reputable big name old insurance companies usually pay even when they are not obligated to avoid the bad reputation and threat of lawsuits and court trials.
 
I dissagree. If the VIN on the truck doesn't match the VIN of the vehicle insured, it's basically not insured. Same goes for registration according to the state. It's a form of fraud. Now, if you own both cabs, and have the title to both, I don't think it's hard to show the correction on the title. But if you source a cab out of a wrecking yard without a title, that VIN will most likely show to a different owner, and no registration. And as for removing the VIN tag, it's a state felony if it's done with the intent of fraud, and that is up to the decision of the local judicial body. Many small counties don't care, but in higher populated areas, such as Dallas/Tarrant and El Paso Counties, where auto theft is rampant, those governing judicial bodies do care, and you can be in trouble if you get caught. One reason the DPS started the Auto Theft Task Force.....
 
0f course a vehicle is insured by its VIN. No one questions that.

But an insurance company cannot cancel coverage for minor reasons as you stated. That was my point.
 
The best part is that the visible VIN is attached to the PLASTIC DASH and there aren't any washers behind the rivets. They look like the'yd wiggle out pretty easy... Or just keep you old dash.
 
The best part is that the visible VIN is attached to the PLASTIC DASH and there aren't any washers behind the rivets. They look like the'yd wiggle out pretty easy... Or just keep you old dash.



Ahhhh, that may be how they appear, but that's not how they are on any of my trucks. On my trucks they are attached to the steel frame of the cab, just in FRONT of the dash..... and on the door... . and frame... ...
 
So to bring this back up top. Is $600 for rust free cab with rear and side glass a reasonable price? It may come with some dash piece, but I'd imagine they are toast.

Chris
 
Seems reasonable to me. Most wrecking yards down here want $1500+ for a good cab w/ fenders. '03+ cabs can bring as much as $3000 w/ fenders... Glass is bonus.
 
So I think I have a found a good cab, local enough to take the time to go look at. Before I do that, I was wondering if the floor/transmission tunnel is difference for an auto equipped truck versus and manual equipped truck? Is the tunnel the same, just no hole cut or is the floor substantially different? I have a lead on a rust free cab (with glass), with a set of non-matching rust free doors and full interior (minus front seat and steering column) for about $500.



Any info is appreciated.
 
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