Rfe 68 service

[JackFate]

I’m do for the filter and fluid. Found conflicting information on how many quarts 17.5-7.5 ? Now I’m under max care so will stick with Mopar parts so I’m in compliance . I thought this would be easy to find everything I need.Anything but easy . Any insight you may have on where and what I need would be appreciated. I know I need Mopar atf +4

2016 3500 cclb 4x4 rfe68 6.7

 

[Ltngdrvr]

I’m do for the filter and fluid. Found conflicting information on how many quarts 17.5-7.5 ? Now I’m under max care so will stick with Mopar parts so I’m in compliance . I thought this would be easy to find everything I need.Anything but easy . Any insight you may have on where and what I need would be appreciated. I know I need Mopar atf +4

2016 3500 cclb 4x4 rfe68 6.7

You won't be doing a complete fluid change, just a pan drain, so about 8 quarts or so, get 9 just to be safe.

And, you absolutely do not have to use oem mopar fluid and filters to maintain the warranty.

68RFE uses ATF+4 fluid, and it is all the same no matter what brand you get, I always just use walmart house brand fluid when I do mine, and use a ATP filter kit, B-245, or a autozone TF349 duralast kit(exactly the same kits), comes with both filters and a pan gasket so you don't have to use silicone for the gasket.

 

[JR]

Capacity varies depending on how long you allow it to drain. As I recall I think I used right around 10 quarts. I also let it drain overnight.

Filters I got from Geno's. I only use Mopar filters but any ATF+4 is fine. The flat filter has a gasket that can be tricky to replace. It's seated deep in the bore and can be difficult to both remove and install. I changed the first one but have left it alone and reused it since at the advice of member TransEngineer, who was heavily involved with the 68rfe at Chrysler.
Just give the old seal a close inspection

The spin on filter is plastic and can crack if over tighten. No more than 1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket seats.

The pan makes a heck of a mess when you drop it.

I installed a drain plug in the bottom like this. Makes it alot easier for future services.

https://tennesseespeedsport.com/b-m...4qyNJ6nxVud0z5lf2JQuug4FbFvIiN-IaAqNQEALw_wcB

 

[JackFate]

Capacity varies depending on how long you allow it to drain. As I recall I think I used right around 10 quarts. I also let it drain overnight.

Filters I got from Geno's. I only use Mopar filters but any ATF+4 is fine. The flat filter has a gasket that can be tricky to replace. It's seated deep in the bore and can be difficult to both remove and install. I changed the first one but have left it alone and reused it since at the advice of member TransEngineer, who was heavily involved with the 68rfe at Chrysler.
Just give the old seal a close inspection

The spin on filter is plastic and can crack if over tighten. No more than 1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket seats.

The pan makes a heck of a mess when you drop it.

I installed a drain plug in the bottom like this. Makes it alot easier for future services.

https://tennesseespeedsport.com/b-m...4qyNJ6nxVud0z5lf2JQuug4FbFvIiN-IaAqNQEALw_wcB

Thanks , I watched a couple YouTube videos on this procedure. I understand the flat filter gasket that you mentioned as I saw it removed & reinstalled. I like the drain plug idea as I installed a genos oil pan plug with hose .
Thanks for your input

 

[Ltngdrvr]

The spin-on filter thread insert is plastic on the oem filter, that is what can crack. If this is the first time changing that filter, they are on super super tight, and you may end up destroying the original filter to get it off. The new filter will come with a new thread insert, and it does NOT need to be reinstalled super tight.

And, yes, the seal for the sump filter is just a ring that presses into the trans body, and it is a booger to get out, after quite a few filter changes on mine, the ORIGINAL seal is still in place, I just reuse it every time.

There is no need to let the fluid drain for an extended time.

As to making a mess when draining the pan that has no drain plug, you use a LARGE drain pan, I use to use a large rectangle poly storage container as a drain pan, then you loosen all the pan bolts, then take them out from one end of the pan, letting the pan droop down so the fluid drains from that end before taking the rest of the bolts out and dropping the pan down.

And, adding a drain plug or replacing the pan with one that has a plug will make the next change much easier.

 

[JR]

Thanks , I watched a couple YouTube videos on this procedure. I understand the flat filter gasket that you mentioned as I saw it removed & reinstalled. I like the drain plug idea as I installed a genos oil pan plug with hose .
Thanks for your input

Your very welcome. It goes without saying but I'll say it anyway....make careful consideration where you position the drain plug if you install one of the bulk head fitting types. There are certain areas of low clearance that the plug could interfere with.

Ya know, measure twice cut once kinda stuff

 

[gsbrockman]

Capacity varies depending on how long you allow it to drain. As I recall I think I used right around 10 quarts.

About 10.5 quarts for me, and that was with about a three hour drain, after removing the spin-on filter.

 

[sag2]

Pick up this really big one, or the smaller one works fine too. They generally carry both sizes with the stucco and morter.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Creative-P...x-36-in-L-x-8-in-D-Drywall-Mud-Pan/1000642569

 

[Cummins12V98]

You could fo a fluid exchange and get the vast majority of the old fluid out...........heck never mind.

 

[JackFate]

Pick up this really big one, or the smaller one works fine too. They generally carry both sizes with the stucco and morter.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Creative-P...x-36-in-L-x-8-in-D-Drywall-Mud-Pan/1000642569

Bought one of those on my first oil change ( exactly the one you recommended)
Also use a 4’x6’ tarp bought for free harbor freight .
I just throw it out if I get spillage ( I know irresponsible )
Thank you

 

[JackFate]

The spin-on filter thread insert is plastic on the oem filter, that is what can crack. If this is the first time changing that filter, they are on super super tight, and you may end up destroying the original filter to get it off. The new filter will come with a new thread insert, and it does NOT need to be reinstalled super tight.

And, yes, the seal for the sump filter is just a ring that presses into the trans body, and it is a booger to get out, after quite a few filter changes on mine, the ORIGINAL seal is still in place, I just reuse it every time.

There is no need to let the fluid drain for an extended time.

As to making a mess when draining the pan that has no drain plug, you use a LARGE drain pan, I use to use a large rectangle poly storage container as a drain pan, then you loosen all the pan bolts, then take them out from one end of the pan, letting the pan droop down so the fluid drains from that end before taking the rest of the bolts out and dropping the pan down.

And, adding a drain plug or replacing the pan with one that has a plug will make the next change much easier.

I see this is why I see this pipe nipple thing coming up on my searches. Good to know
Thank you

 

[JackFate]

You could fo a fluid exchange and get the vast majority of the old fluid out...........heck never mind.

What you’re not gonna tell me to use amsoil.
I’d actually look into that if my cousin that had a trans shop for 40 years hadn’t retired. ; )

 

[JackFate]

Thanks all ,
Good stuff
May report back after in couple weeks
Be well, Be safe

 

[Cummins12V98]

What you’re not gonna tell me to use amsoil.
I’d actually look into that if my cousin that had a trans shop for 40 years hadn’t retired. ; )

I don’t tell anyone what to use or what to do.

it’s very easy to do a fluid exchange on the 68.

I am hesitant to say anything cuz I get so much chitz for even mentioning changing “all” the fluid.

If you want to know how to do it pm me. Not worth the criticism to say how on here.

 

[nukegm]

I don’t tell anyone what to use or what to do.

it’s very easy to do a fluid exchange on the 68.

I am hesitant to say anything cuz I get so much chitz for even mentioning changing “all” the fluid.

If you want to know how to do it pm me. Not worth the criticism to say how on here.

agreed. complete fluid exchanges are the way to go, in my o. GOOD shops have nice machines that can do this. if you wash dishes and clean part of them in clean water and the other part in dirty water, thats what you do with a partial drain/service. cheers comrades!

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Disagree, no need to do a complete fluid exchange on a properly maintained and operating transmission that hasn't been abused. I do the pan drain fluid change on mine every 60K, filter change every other fluid change, the drained fluid comes out looking just like new.
The pan drain fluid change is to replenish the additives that deteriorate during use.

 

[gsbrockman]

Disagree, no need to do a complete fluid exchange on a properly maintained and operating transmission that hasn't been abused. I do the pan drain fluid change on mine every 60K, filter change every other fluid change, the drained fluid comes out looking just like new.
The pan drain fluid change is to replenish the additives that deteriorate during use.

And....can you PLEASE reiterate to @Cummins12V98 how many miles are on your 68RFE?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

And....can you PLEASE reiterate to @Cummins12V98 how many miles are on your 68RFE?

Just a few miles...572,540 is all.

Only trans issue ever was a bad harness connector, and an idiot tech at one dealer who over-tightened a pan bolt making the pan leak fluid.

 

[JR]

Guess that 68 ain't so bAd after all!

 

[gsbrockman]

Guess that 68 ain't so bAd after all!

And that’s with just pan drops, and PARTIAL fluid changes!!!!