Royal Purple or Amsoil

[jimnance]

Sounds like a good idea. You've obviously thought about the pros and cons and have what seems to be a good strategy. I'll soon be changing the fluid in my diff because I tow heavy as well. For certain it will be a synthetic, probably the Royal Purple since it's readily available locally.



Jim

 

[jimnance]

Quote: Nope. Oil and filter changes at 6 month intervals are really just a motivator for me to go over the truck and do the general maintenance and check-up items I need to do. I probably could go longer, but oil and filters are cheap insurance.



Probably a very good idea. I've been around aircraft engines and truck engines a fair bit. We've found that corrosion can begin in a surprisingly short period of time. The longer the intervals between use the more likely you can have a problem. Oil will drain off internal parts with time. Depending on the oil viscosity and additive package the corrosion protection of the residual oil diminishes with time. Oil analysis to determine acidity levels is important, but not the only cause of premature engine wear.



We've found that trucks or planes that operate daily will give far more miles of service than those that operate less frequently. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Also, a good 30 minute drive once a week would help too.



Sounds like you take really good care of your vehicles.

 

[RustyJC]

Probably a very good idea. I've been around aircraft engines and truck engines a fair bit. We've found that corrosion can begin in a surprisingly short period of time. The longer the intervals between use the more likely you can have a problem. Oil will drain off internal parts with time. Depending on the oil viscosity and additive package the corrosion protection of the residual oil diminishes with time. Oil analysis to determine acidity levels is important, but not the only cause of premature engine wear.



We've found that trucks or planes that operate daily will give far more miles of service than those that operate less frequently. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Also, a good 30 minute drive once a week would help too.



Sounds like you take really good care of your vehicles.

For the past 31 years I've worked for a manufacturer of engines, compressors, gas turbines and turbochargers used in the oil and gas industry. Over 25 of those years have been in various technical management capacities. We see the same problems with engines that sit idle for extended periods of time. For those customers who purchase engines and/or compressors for standby service, we recommend circulating crankcase (and, in some cases, coolant) heaters to prevent deterioration while the unit is idle and to allow rapid startup and loading when the equipment is needed.



As I said, oil and filters are cheap insurance for an operating regimen such as my truck sees.



Rusty

 

[amsoilman]

If you want a good oil, use one that has a high TBN, and also one that will meet the MIL-L21260D specs. This would give you the best protection against rust and acid corrosion.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[LightmanE300]

Synthetics have a much higher resistance to acid buildup and have much beefier additive packages - which is probably why my oil sat an entire year and was still good after 13 months. I can't say I'd leave a dino oil sitting very long.



I don't know much about RP fluids, but I can say I don't recommend amsoil's diff fluid. So far, the Mobil 1 75w90 is working well, and is widely available.

 

[RustyJC]

Synthetics have a much higher resistance to acid buildup and have much beefier additive packages - which is probably why my oil sat an entire year and was still good after 13 months. I can't say I'd leave a dino oil sitting very long.

Which is a primary reason I use Delo 400 instead of Rotella or some of the other brands. Chevron has its own additive group (Oronite), and they have a lot of experience with marine diesels burning Bunker C and other "trash" fuels that create some real challenges in terms of corrosion. By contrast, many of the other vendors will blend either their or someone else's base stock with an additive package purchased from Lubrizol or other additive suppliers.



Even then, the 6 month intervals are as long as I care to push it. The engine was spotless under the valve cover when I did the injector changeout at about 16K miles.



Rusty

 

[ChrisKringle]

What about Redline?

 

[LightmanE300]

Redline makes awesome stuff. Their oils are pretty expensive though.

 

[Duck]

Do you use the same weight fluid for the front diff as you do the rear?

 

[WaynesWorld]

Royal purple vs amsoil

This might be just slightly off the thread But-----

Has anyone heard of the new filter that has a cup of additive gel already if the paper element to blend as the oil goes thru it? Would this help alleviate the need for frequent oil changes regardless of oil brand. :-{} I think Donaldson is starting to market this filter for Large Cars.

How is this different from a bypass filter?

Would this help make the syn vs dino less of a cost factor?



WAYNES WORLD

 

[LightmanE300]

Wayne I haven't seen it so I can't discredit it, but it sounds like a gimmick. I just don't understand how they could time-release additives over the course of your oil interval.



That's a lot different from a bypass filter system in that bypass filters do not add anything to the oil, they just scrub it clean. The majority of oil flows thru the full filter with a small amount diverted to the bypass filter. The bypass filter cleans the oil really well, and in about 15 mins of running, the majority of your sump's oil has passed through it. The fact that you change filters and refill them with new oil replenishes the additive package -which is probably why you were comparing the two.

 

[MarcRoth]

Niether.

Keep all of your synthetic oils. CenPeco is the only oil for my Truck. Did all the reading on the other brands and the synthetic advantage and to tell you the truth Run CenPeco. I think it is the "hidden" secret. Marc

 

[LightmanE300]

Keep all of your synthetic oils. CenPeco is the only oil for my Truck. Did all the reading on the other brands and the synthetic advantage and to tell you the truth Run CenPeco. I think it is the "hidden" secret. Marc

:-laf :-laf

 

[jsimpson]

I've only tried one Ams product - 2k75w90 and got noises in my diff. at 13k miles. Tried RP 75w90 and noise stopped. I know it's not a very scientific comparison - Ams with 13k on it, compared to new RP. I should've been using a w140 all along, for my usage. I only used the RP 75w90 (in the diff) for a few 1000 miles and switched to RP 75w140, then later to 85w140. I've used all RP since - engine, diff and power steering. I tried 75w90 RP in the 5sp and it was TOO stiff. Thinking about trying Ams in it, next. I don't think it would take much to beat the mega$ Castrate stuff!! Shimmed up the end clearence at 32k and it's sloppy again at 75k. Yes, I did regular changes. Any Ams dealers in the SW Phx area? I've read the 2k 75w90 will take the chattering out of the 5sps and still shift good. Craig

Amsoil 2000 made my diff noisy too. I replaced it with Amsoil racing, and the noise went away.

 

[jsimpson]

I've been using synthetics, many brands, since Amsoil first started marketing synthetics. I don't have enough time left in my life to detail all the benfits I've derived from synthetics. But two stand out: my old Dodge Travco with a 318 pulled hills in third gear with Amsoil thatit had downshifted to first to pull with Pensoil. I purposely ran a Honda lawnmower for nearly eight years after a fillup with Amsoil without ever changing the oil. The oil was still good after the deck disintegrated on the lawnmower. Your experiences and opinions may differ sharply from mine, but you can bet your life that I WILL continue with synthetics. The benefits of synthetics stand out much more sharply in highly stressed engines (like the 318 in my heavy motorhome) than in lightly stressed engines (like my Cummins in my pickup). And yes, I have an engine building and racing background and over 50 years of wrenching experience. Old reliable methods??? Would you go back to points ignition in your gassers?

 

[ZRacer]

I know this thread is a little old, but I am ready to switch oils possibly and have been exploreing the Amsoil/RP/Valvoline options. I know we test our engines more severly on the Dynos than any consumer could ever possibly. We have to test for all conditions period in order to insure the engines will perform beyond intended design. With that said, I will be making a trip down to the Dyno wing in the Tech Center and see what we have tested and what has and hasn't worked. I am sure we(DCX) has tested Synthetics and must have a valid reason for recommending conventional oils. I will dig this up and post what I find.

 

[Scrappy]

Royal Purple

I run RP in my truck everywhere but the trans because of warranty issues. it is supposed to cling to the lubed parts after shutdown. By doing this it might be better for the engine during startup.

 

[Cattletrkr]

It was mentioned earlier that the engine manufactures don't recommend synthetic oils. The owners manual on my '04. 5 Dodge says that 5w-40 synthetic is OK for colder climates.



I don't like changing oil once every 4-5 weeks so I run synthetic. I like the easier cold starts, so I run synthetic. I could run dino in the summer when business slows and temp warm up, but then I'd need two barrels of oil sitting around.



I know nothing about RP, but Amsoil is the ****. The guy I buy it from ran Amsoil racing oil in his 350 Chevy race car for an entire season last year. That's the whole season on the SAME oil. Bearings came out looking like new, (end of season tear down) I saw them, incredible. 20 oil changes (after each race) vs. 1 oil change. Even I can figure out the economic benefit there.

 

[Texas Diesel]

My experience with Amsoil products have been less than satisfactory.

My 98 2500 5 speed had Asmoil in it and it shifted very badly. My 97 BMW motorcycle had Amsoil in the gearbox and it too shifted roughly and missed shifts.



My transmissions were changed to Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90. The 98 2500 shifts like a different transmission, very smooth. The BMW also shifts much better and hasnt missed a shift since the change.



One other thing to think about. Amsoil is a pyramid sales company, in other words they only sell through a "dealer" network. It costs $50 to become a dealer. The high profit combined with slick advertising causes normal folk to believe that Amsoil is a gift from God.



All of the 1,000,000 mile Rams have used dino oil and regular changes. How can you improve on that?







Disclaimer: Not affiliated with any company.

 

[EB]

As far as I'm concerned, anyone can use any oil they want. My experience with Amsoil have been very good. My last truck went 416k with no lub problems at all. My present truck has 222,000+ miles on it with Amsoil every place you can put it. The oil has been changed 5 times in the engine. 6, 12, and 18 k miles when I switched to Amsoil, again at 67k when my airbox came loose and my oil sample showed high in silicon, 167k just because I thought 100k was enough, the oil sample said it was still good for continued use, and I am still running the same oil since that day. I change the full flow filters around every 6k and the bypass filter every 18k. I run an oil sample about two weeks before I think I will be changing the bypass filter. With the miles I run it is very cost efficient and I don't have to worry about getting my oil changed every month or running over on an oil change. What other people do, I don't worry about. This works for me.



EB