Sad Story/Happy Ending

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I just ended a half sorted love affair with a beautiful, but superficial, white beast. Everything went well until I the first time I peered under her skirt and found a semi-floating Corp. 14 bolt rear-end and then learned of her unending thirst (11. 44 mpg). Her arms would wrap you in the softest of care and her breath was ice cold, but she did not have the stamina to work all day and then take out on the town that evening. Therefore, I have cut the strings on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 LT Extended Cab, short bed 4 x 4 and set her free to someone else who will love and pamper her.

I have picked up my new Bronze 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab, Short Bed 4 x 4 SLT with the ETH/DEE!!!! I am elated with the changes and improvements in the model since I sold my 1995 1500. What a great toy I have captured and driving it is soooooo fun. Too much power, no such creature, from 2100 RPM up it is a monster!!! Looking for reasons to drive it and the latest is to go pickup some wood chips at K-Mart, so we can BBQ a pork roast for tonight.

The first item to adorn my new baby is going to be gauges. How many do I need, and what should I monitor under the hood? Are Pre-turbo temps or Post-turbo temps more critical, or must (should) I monitor both? Therefore, who makes the best gauges (readability, size, illumination, installation and cost)?

Glad to have joined the club. Now how about a local chapter of TDR in the Columbus/Atlanta, GA area???


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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab, Short Bed 4 x 4 ETH/DEE, leather, camper/trailer, etc, etc... Future BOMBer!!!!

Life NRA Member

[This message has been edited by justme (edited 07-17-2000). ]

 

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Great write up, and welcome home!

Two gauges are critical: pyrometer and boost. Check the archives for massive discussion on best location, etc, and I'm sure you'll get more feedback here too. Pre or post turbo for the pyro is an endless debate. I prefer pre turbo for most accurate and responsive reading but it's more work and some think more risky. Most people are running ISSPRO gauges, they have the most market saturation. Geno's garage has a really neat dual gauge (both boost and pyro in one display) that's made for them by Westach. Autometer also has what you need. In case you do some BOMBing, definitely get a boost gauge that goes to 50 lbs or you'll be swapping it out later.

Happy Cummins Powered Ramming!

 

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I'm in Warner Robins, Ga, but not peeking. I'd like to start a chapter in this area.
You gonna love that ETH/DEE. Wait till you hook to a load.


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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards,
Real Backup Lights

 

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Welcome,

Regarding guages, I just installed a set of SPA (digital) guages. Very cool! (also very expensive!) Nice features you just can't get with analog guages. I monitor EGTs pre and post turbo on a dual temp guage as well as turbo boost and transmission temp (auto). There are some photos on HVAC's performance diesel website.



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'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, SPA guages, Alpha Liner, Stolen Silencer ring, every option but running lights! To come: DD Stage II's PE or DD Boost Module, Exhaust brake, 4" turbo to tail, etc...

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.

 

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Like someone said, you will find much info on pre vs post turbo location in the archives. But I'll give an opinion anyway, partly because most of the replies may point you in the other direction and you need to be sure you understand their reasons if you want to make the right decision for YOU. I think "most" of the previous postings point to pre-turbo mounting as the way to go; but read everything, and then go back and read between the lines! Like you, I have the ETH, and had to make this same decision just 5 short weeks ago. I went to the shop thinking I would go with pre-turbo because that is what so many said was the best; at the last minute I decided to go post-turbo. I am VERY VERY VERY glad that is what I did. The installer did it wrong; the SPA thermocouple broke off and was ingested by my system. Instead of worrying about the health of my turbo with foreign parts in it, or actually destroying it, I just know there's a piece of metal somewhere in my muffler, but causing no harm!
I said read between the lines; what I mean there is that I think the "pre turbo" location is popular with those that have done significant modifications to their rigs, and have to monitor temps to avoid damaging the equipment. But I am completely happy with the power of my ETH "stock", so any BOMB'ing I do will be to improve mpg. I don't think I need incremental improvement of the pre-turbo mounting. Thus, for me (and this may or may not be true for you!), the most important reason to monitor temps is to insure adequate cooldown times, which in turn insures long life for my turbo. If that is what you care about too, then post turbo is the only way to go. Please everybody, don't missunderstand - I'm not saying "pre-turbo" is "wrong"! I'm just saying "right" or "wrong" depends on what your personal goals are!

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, ARB's soon

 

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I agree with HC in the fact that to ensure proper cool down you need to know the temp after turbo. I just completed installing pre-turbo and wish it was post for this reason. Isproo guages have a poor lighting arangement and real dim. They are coming out with what they call enhanced lighting. It may be worth checking on the release date.

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98 12V SLT 2500 4X2 AUTO,3. 54 limt slip rear, QC SB Driftwood W/color match Topper, Full alum Boards,Delux OE mud guards, Bugflector,SS Wheel well trim,Reese 15K slider hitch,30 ft. Coachman 5er,TST #8 plate TC lockup Sw,Trans-go kit,Heavy duty TC. Isproo Boost,EGT,and Trans Temp Guages,Uniden CB.

 

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Another good gauge is Autometer. I have the 2. 625" diameter gauges mounted under the dash--about as good as putting your watch on your ankle--use a big watch! You can spend many happy hours deciding where to put them!

Now that you have completed the decision to get gauges, you need a reason for them--hhow about injectors, a fueling box, maybe a bit of propane, huh, HVAC?

OK, wait until you are bored with the stock power level, say, a few weeks maybe. When you get bored with 400 hp, you have joined the more "devoted" bombers!

 

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Justme, I traded a 1999 Silverodo for my '00 Cummins/Ram and I am one happy guy. I'm sorry I can't answer the rest of your questions.

 

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Welcome. Keep reading and you will learn more than you ever thought you would want to know and then thirst for more.

I have not bombed yet, so only have a Pre-turbo egt. Wish I had gone Post-turbo first for the shutdown temp. That is what I would do if I had to start over. But then I do not have an ETH. Understand they run a little warmer.

After reading for several months, I will eventually have both a Pre and a Post. Have seen suggestions for two probes and one guage with a toggle switch to switch between the two.

[This message has been edited by George O (edited 07-17-2000). ]

 

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Welcome to the group, good selection in trucks!!!! I have an undervalved 95 that i absolutely love!!

I like the looks of these gages, price seems ok as well.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/products/egt.htm

It's all in what you want.

Randy

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .

 

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Very happy with the DiPricol gauges w/ pillar mount. They closely resemble the factory look of the instrument panel, simular lighting too.

I'd be happy to e-mail a couple of images of them installed. Just drop me an e-mail.

steve@cesrvs.com

Note: I had autometer and ISSPRO gauges, they are good quality, but wasn't impressed with the look. Just depends on what you want for a look, had I seen or even known about DiPricol gauges I would have bought them first. My . 02 worth

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99' Quad Cab, 4x4, Auto, 3. 55, All options except fog lights and leather, Glasstite topper, Chrome Nerf Bars, VA CPC, DiPricol EGT & Boost Gauges Pillar Mount, K&N Air Filter, Turbo Silencer Ring Removed, Infinity sound w/pillar tweeters, 300w speaker system under rear seat, Metalic Red

 

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I went post turbo for the EXACT same reasons that HC stated... and still believe that if you are planning to leave the power output near stock levels (within 50 BHP or so on a pre ETH), you are best served that way. The ONLY way to get accurate turbo cool down temps. is POST turbo. That said, I've found myself progressively BOMBing in such a way that I feel it might be prudent to add an additional pyrometer (I don't want to toggle anything), prior to adding more power than I currently have. As a matter of fact, I have had another VDO Vision pyrometer on order for several weeks now. The cool part is, when I drill the exhaust manifold for the thermocouple it will be in my new ATS exhaust manifold (which is in transit from BD... right Piers?) Yeehaw! Let 'er rip baby!

If any of you want to see an absolute work of art, check out the ATS exhaust manifold on Dave Perea's 12v! Dave even BOMBed the BOMB. In addition to having the manifold polished, it was subsequently ceramic coated (with clear?) Anyway, it looks like some sort of hi-tech chrome. EXTREMELY #ad
(and you practically need sunglasses to look at it in the sun... or was that the glare from all the other polished stainless steel or chrome accessories under his hood)?

Incidentally, Dave you are one helluva salesman, once you showed me that bad boy you knew I couldn't resist! #ad


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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X spray in liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V-10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus many other trick modifications

[This message has been edited by John (edited 07-20-2000). ]

 

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john leave the drill and tap in the toolbox , the ATS i saw had tapped holes in both outlet ports , now you'll need to get a third gauge #ad

 

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JUSTME--My kinda man! I too, sent my old Chebby dooley to live somewhere else--complete with built BB, Art Carr turbo 400, etc. Would pass everything on the road except Chevron, (and a CUMMINS)! WELCOME HOME! RON #ad
#ad


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2001 QC Dually SLT+ 354 LSD AUTO 4WD Driftwood SS Railcaps Stainless Werks step-rail nerfs Rhino spray-in liner Aux B/U lites Diamond Plate Alum Highways tow box SS Fender lips Jardine 4" Mag-Hytec diff & transmission Alcoa classics Reese 20K hitch 28ft Holiday Rambler 5er w/slide 84 Scrambler 4" lift 33/12. 50's 4. 56 gears soft locker/trac-lok Built 258 w/Mopar fuel injection conversion BUILDING 66-442 Olds, ground up--OH BABY! NRA 25 YEAR MEMBER

 

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Mopar-muscle, Dave Perea told me the latest version of the ATS exhaust manifold does not have either of the bosses in the manifold drilled and tapped for the pyrometer thermocouples.