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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Shocks & bumper stops

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) No Noise

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine angle question

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I'm soliciting all opinions... ... . Gentlemen... ... ...

I have a '97 2500 8800GVWR. I've installed a 2. 5" leveling kit in the front & have a 2. 5" block kit for the back, yes in essence a 2. 5" lift. Now my questions are;

1) Is it advisible to change the bump stops to longer ones & if so any recommendations as to where I can get some.

2) And shock recommendations, as I run 256x75's in the summer & 305x70's in the winter. Will be running off road by not to the extreme. Either hauling or towing a modest weight. Mainly hunting. What say all ye?
 
Honestly, I'm not sure if you need longer bumps with a coil spacer. The reason to do it would be to prevent coil bind. A long time ago I had a puck spacer on my 01 and it did come with longer bumps. I don't KNOW that the coils will bind with a puck. Coils spacers only really change the ride height and not performance (i. e. , increase travel). I'm sure you can find longer bumps at a good off-road vendor.



I would highly recommend putting that money toward a good performance coils. You'll get the increased height, more travel and better performance. Thuren and Lorenz (plush) coils will give you the best ride. Carli's coils are just slightly stiffer. KORE = too stiff. These will not bind with stock bumps. A set of mini packs in the rear will make a huge difference out back.



Shocks: The Bilstien's that come with the above mentioned leveling kits and at Geno's are good and adequate for most. 2. 0 and bigger race shocks all give increasing levels of performance at significantly increasing level of price.
 
My 99, 88gvw - installed 2. 5 leveling up front =just to level the truck. Left the back stock = sits just about 1/2" higher than the front.

I used straight up Bilstiens = blue/yellow, no extensions and they've been excellent for going on 7 years now. I've been running 305/70/16 Nittos since 03, 1/2 way thru my 3rd set = locked rear and heavy right foot. I get about 50k out of each set. The levelers don't give any more tire clearance at full lock turn to turn, I've heard guys running 315's that just barely rub the control arm at lock.

I'd just level the front out and leave the rear alone. If you raise the rear be ready to play with the rear anti-lock valve-to-bed rod, if equipped. MHO

If you like the raised look then go for it! there's plenty of info here how to address the RWAL rod if equipped. Have fun.
 
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