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calgold

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OK guys, I am a newbie. I am sure the info. I am looking for is here somewhere but I cant seem to find it. I have an '07 with the 5. 9 and I am looking for a programmer. I mostly want more power for towing our camper but hope to get a programmer that wont cause transmission problems. A good friend of mine has the Smarty Jr. and loves it. I wanted to see if the experts in this forum recommended anything else. Thank you!
 
First off, Welcome!



It's hard to believe you need (want:D) more power for towing, I am quite certain you have ample power now...



The Smarty JR will be the single, most advantages mod you can do at this point, you will not be sorry, there is simply nothing better at this time. Leave it in the towing mode(2) and you will not have any issues. Jess
 
Thanks for the info. Youre right, I dont need more power but we tow up some pretty steep grades and it would be nice to be able to keep up with our fellow campers!
 
The Smarty Jr. is great for towing. I pull 18k through the Pennsylvania mountains and rarely have to use more than half the go pedal. I rarely ever have to shift out of overdrive. Any increase in power is bad for the transmission but the Jr is probably the safest power upgrade available for your motor and transmission. Many have run the Smarty Jr. from day 1 and never had any issues. Mine failed under stock power and grandma like driving after only 50,000 miles so before I added power, I rebuilt mine to take much more power than I'll ever add.
 
i hate auto's and would never own one but i can tell you how to get more power and 40% increase in mpg and the smarty jr is a must. for towing you have to get the transmission to lock up and get a bd exhaust brake and a smartbrake or maxbrake. bd makes the best lockup kit and bd has the best beef up kit for your transmission for power. read the following

Your truck uses in- cylinder egr for smog reduction. They also extend fueling duration and retard the timing to keep peak heat and pressure down. Since the third injection pulse is so late in the cycle the egt is very hot compared to a 03 but the peak temp where the no is formed is actually lower. i will try to keep it simple, the cam exhaust lobe is ground to leave burnt exhaust gas in for the next cycle. change the cam to a pdr or colt. the hamilton is ground more for kids who are after power, we just want low end torque and mpg. change or hone the nozzles to ddp 50 hp. get a smarty jr leave the torque and timing set on default and on economy or sw1 as it is called. get a fbd turbo back straight pipe kit 5". get a m090072 resonator and a m090535 muffler and 4 clamps from ryder truck parts. for the first one i did it took me 5 hours. after about the 10th one i can do it in about 3 hours. it takes longer to remove the old one than you think. i install them by my self and you do not need any special tools. i have my own shop and change the cams and nozzles here. you will probably have to pay labor. do the nozzle change at the same time as cam to save labor. . use the left over pipe to extend the exhaust out further to keep the fenders cleaner. from ah64id There is no external EGR on any 5. 9. The 04. 5-07 meet the 04 emissions by utilizing "in-cylinder" EGR. The 4 big ways this was done was cam, pistons, timing, and turbo.



The cam lobes are timed so that the intake is a longer duration, and the exhaust is very short (shorter than any other Cummins in a Dodge) and the exhaust closes sooner to keep more gasses in the cylinder, this decreases combustion temp.



The pistons are a non-reentrant design and don't promote as good of air movement and combustion, again reducing peak combustion temps (and makes the pistons really easy to melt)



The timing is retarded to again reduce peak cylinder pressure and combustion temps, and to raise the EGT's to help the Cat work.



The Turbo has a very inefficient tubrine wheel and small housing, this provides backpressure on the manifold to again reduce the exhast scavanging effect.



The 03-04 actually has the same cam, and the turbine is even smaller, but its the combo of the timing and the pistion in the 04. 5-07's that completes the effect.



Personally I have changed my cam, use the Smarty Jr for timing, and will be swapping turbo's this spring. . should help clean up my oil, combustion, and power... thou it will increase the NOx effects.

flat lander it gets very confusing on the 04. 5 up with the in-cylinder egr. they delayed timing, lengthend duration and added a very late 3rd pulse this was done to keep peak pressure and peak cylinder temp down but because the fuelling is so far away from tdc the egt's appear way hotter than previous models but in actuality it is lower than previous models on the pistons. for us that want better mpg we reverse engineer the process and as we do we see the egt drop knowing we are bringing piston temp up. with the smarty jr on default tow you will have both lower egt and piston temp than earlier models. you desparatly need to change your cam to a pdr or colt and get you some 50 hp nozzles from ddp. this will gain you 6 mpg and the lowest egt once the nozzles are on you need to go back to the economy setting. the 50 hp from the nozzles is kind of a unwanted byproduct of shortning the fuelling duration. with 40 hp from the jr and 50 from the nozzles it fits the air you have and is better than stock on the engine. some posting on here like to play and their requirements are different 150 hp nozzles drastically shortens duration to where the main or 2ond pulse injects the fuel just over tdc where the pressure is highest and the most efficient work is done but also produces the most piston temp. because the fuel burns longer the egt appears lower. we tow very heavy and have many drivers. we can not have a truck set up that you have to drive by a pyrometer. some of our older trucks have at or over 1,000,000 miles on them all of our 06's are set up this way except the one in my sig i added enough air to use tow setting. bigwheels 94 gave a good explanation on the stick timing vs size
 
I really like my Smarty Jr.

If you want a little more mid-range torque and still try to be nice on your transmission then run SW1, Timing 2, Torque 4. If you want a little more power than that and treat your skinny pedal nice then SW2, Timing 2, Torque 4 will do it.

If you get some $$ into the trans, valve body and torque converter you can run the Torque on 2 or 3 and it will be a lot nicer in the bottom end.
 
Wow guys, a lot of great info! This is the first discussion forum I have ever joined and I'm still figuring out how it works but it looks like it was well worth it. I ordered the smarty jr so I will see how it goes. Thanks to you all!
 
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