Here I am

Snapped a bleeder

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Penetrating Oils

Track Bar Bushings

Status
Not open for further replies.
My truck is getting close to its 4rth birthday so I felt a brake fluid change was way overdue and judging by the deep gold colour of the removed fluid, it certainly was overdue.



Having had many experiences in the past with broken bleeders (breaking them), I want to get to the bleeders as soon as I get the vehicle, remove them, neverseize and replace so that when the time comes, they'll come out. I had got around to the front ones and they were not a problem but the rears had been untouched. I pre-blasted them with Breakaway and let them soak for a couple of hours. I started on the right rear. I tapped the end of the bleeder with a hammer, applied an 11 mm 6-sided socket with gentle pressure and watched the entire bleeder slowly turn. These bleeders go in a long way. Got it out, neverseized and reinstalled. Then I attached the catch reservoir,opened the screw and squeezed the pads in so that I could remove the caliper and pads and lube the pad to carrier mount points and the caliper slide bolts. Put everything back together, pulled as much old fluid out of the master reservoir as I could and proceeded to pressure bleed the right rear.

Buttoned up the right side and moved on to the left. I wasn't so lucky here as the light application of the 11mm socket turned the socket but not the bleeder threads and it snapped just like the picture in Ryan's thread. What to do now.



Since the bleeder had not budged, there was no leak. But I still wanted to get some of the old fluid out. So I went back to the right rear, opened the bleeder and then sqeezed the pistons back into the left rear caliper as far as they would go and then proceeded to purge the old fluid out of the line through the right rear bleeder. There will still be some old fluid there but that would be just the remaining volume in the caliper with the pistons all the way in plus the short section of line form the caliper to the union block on the left side of the axle.



I lubed the pad mounting points and caliper slides and buttoned the left rear back up. The bleeders on the front calipers freely turned as these had been previously removed and neverseized. So with the fronts lubed and bled, the job was done. I used 2. 5 quarts of new fluid and still need to by some more to top it up.



My plan at this point is to leave it alone and in about 2 years, get another left rear caliper and replace when I do the fluid flush the next time. I won't be waiting 4 years this time. I looked at how much bleeder is buried in the caliper and it looks like a major pita to get all of it out.



It would be interesting to know if Ryan ever did get his caliper repaired and how the other 3 bleeders went with all the precautions taken as that thread never got updated beyond the one broken bleeder.



Regards, John
 
We tear down clutches, and HD brakes. . when we have items that we can't get apart we usually end up putting them into a thermal cleaner to bake off the dirt and rust. . almost always the fasteners will come apart. .

We often have air compressors that have plugs that are either in oil galleys or water galleys that do the same as your bleeder... on those we drill a hole into the plug and screw in an easy out to remove the plug... the easy out we use "drive in" and grab as the tool is turned counter clockwise to remove the plug...

To be honest, I've visited a large caliper rebuilding operation and watched them clean and rebuild the calipers. . I just didn't take the time to watch how they remove the old bleeders. .

It would be such a simple task for the OEM's to deal with this... . its just like the bearing housings on the front wheels... they rust in so bad you have to beat them and almost destroy them to remove them...
 
both my rear bleeders broke. i just took the calipers to the local machine shop guys and had them get it out and got some new ones in. 20 bucks later, i bleed the brakes and was done. i hate bleeder screws. the only reason i had new ones (4) was because of that bad luck!
 
It would be interesting to know if Ryan ever did get his caliper repaired and how the other 3 bleeders went with all the precautions taken as that thread never got updated beyond the one broken bleeder.



Nope! Never did repair that caliper, or touch the brake system again. Sitting in the shop is a brand new right rear caliper, and a bag of new bleeder screws.



Since it wasn't leaking, and since I am almost certain that all 4 screws are going to snap off, I'm not in a rush to go messing with them and wind up needing to repair 4 calipers.



Now that the truck is no longer my primary vehicle, I can afford to remove the calipers and repair the bleeders. It's just a matter of finding the time. :rolleyes:



Ryan
 
Well, my Jetta is in exactly the same state as my truck was. 4 years old and its due just as badly for a fluid change. And I did get around to breaking the front bleeders loose early on but haven't touched the rear ones. I think I'll do a bit more searching on how to improve my odds before I tackle the car.



Regards, John
 
Id say every year you should just break them loose a bit. . not enough to open them up. . just enough to turn the threads a half to 1 turn. That should do it I think
 
Eric,



Once broken loose and neverseized, they aren't a problem any more. My mistake was not doing it soon enough on the back ones because the fronts were no problem as they had been done some time ago.



Regards, John
 
I found tapping the bleeder with a small hammer (straight in) and then tapping the wrench as you turn will most often allow you to get them out... I have also applied a small amount of heat to them before using a propane torch (not real hot, just a little warm). '



I was able to get all four of mine loose. I made up my mind that since I was able to get them loose at 180k, the next time it needs a major brake overhaul it will get all new calipers.
 
I can jump in here for a change. I make my living in the precision machining business. It seems like there is always something rusted together or twisted off that makes its way to our shop. I have a couple of ways to get things apart. A healthy swat with a hammer is usually my first try, remember that healthy is directly porportional to the size of what ou are swatting. Next is a liberal soaking with a product called Kroil. Then the swat and turn, usually that does the trick. Finally is to machine things out. Usually a last result just because of the time it takes to set things up and not ruin the part. I usually try to shy away from the tapered easy outs because they get bigge rthe farther in you go with them and that adds pressure to the whole mechanical problem. Sometimes they are the only way though.

Your mileage may vary

Fred
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top