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South Bend Clutch.

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Engine compartment wiring question.

Head, rod and main bolts... Reusable ???

I put a new clutch in my truck 05/2018, a new throwout bearing 7/2019, now the bearing is out again. SB supplied parts last time and have indicated they will do the same again. But of course I'm on the hood for the labor.

So my question is should I change manufacturers and if so who? Should I change the entire clutch or just the bearing?

Anyone else had this problem.

Thanks

By the by I'm an old guy and treat my drive train with respect. NO CLUTCH RIDING ALLOWED!
 
I put a new clutch in my truck 05/2018, a new throwout bearing 7/2019, now the bearing is out again. SB supplied parts last time and have indicated they will do the same again

Before I would replace the bearing again, I would want to know what is going on, such as:

What is the exact bearing failure? (noise?, roller failure?, bearing contact to pressure plate failure?, sliding collar failure?)

What is causing the bearing to fail? (poor quality bearing material, throwout fork misalignment, bearing collar sticking on transmission input shaft retainer, hydraulic pressure still present, etc)

If the vendor is supplying a replacement bearing a second time without charge, does that mean that the vendor knows the bearing is of poor quality and is continuing to supply the bearing anyway? I would hope not.

- John
 
Before I would replace the bearing again, I would want to know what is going on, such as:

What is the exact bearing failure? (noise?, roller failure?, bearing contact to pressure plate failure?, sliding collar failure?)

What is causing the bearing to fail? (poor quality bearing material, throwout fork misalignment, bearing collar sticking on transmission input shaft retainer, hydraulic pressure still present, etc)

If the vendor is supplying a replacement bearing a second time without charge, does that mean that the vendor knows the bearing is of poor quality and is continuing to supply the bearing anyway? I would hope not.

- John
Great points. South Bend makes great clutches, but I doubt they make their own bearings. It seems more likely there is an underlying cause that you need to identify.
 
Interested to know how this works out, as I also have a South Bend clutch. It's good they are providing the part, but a detailed analysis of the failure would be helpful. As pointed out, it seems almost certain that the bearing itself is coming from a bearing manufacturer, and which one would be helpful (it's laser etched on the bearing outer race typically). I would expect South Bend is using a quality bearing, given the price point for their products.. that means it might be important to look for any other possible cause. It seems like the bearing is staying under some load when the clutch is not pressed, even a poor quality bearing not under constant load would last longer than what you are seeing.
 
Retired from clutch industry and I don’t care who you bought from.

Just offering info while waiting for dinner in a bit.

1. Can you describe any conditions that turn noise off or on? Like pedal position or in/out of gear etc.

2. If you wish, remove slave cylinder from bell housing. Hold cyl in hand and push the cyl against the push rod compressing it into the cyl. It should feel like you are compressing a very small shock absorber. You are moving fluid back into the reservoir thru a small hole. That’s most of the resistance plus the preload spring inside the slave cyl.
If you have serious resistance or can’t push it back that’s a new concern. Must be investigated and fixed.

3. Any pedal feedback against your foot? Vibrations non smooth operation etc.

4. Pedal effort itself. These have a nice feel that works thru heavy boots jeans to give you feedback. If you’re straining to push it concern is bearing carrier to guide tube condition.

Gary
 
I don't know if this helps, but I did my clutch 4 yrs ago and did another last week. Both shift forks were worn and had to be repaired (replaced) where the bearing slider rides, not sure if that is applying some odd load or if there could be a similar problem.. These were both NV5600s
 
Here is a final update. The T.O. bearing had disintegrated, nothing left but the collars. Also, the was wear on the pressure plate fingers from said bearing. S. Bend said they have been having an issue with the bearings and that they felt they have addressed and fixed the issue. They shipped a new clutch, with all the trimmings to my mechanic, and is now installed and working. This clutch feels better to me threw my foot, smoother, etc. I can only wait now and see. If this one fails I will look elsewhere. Thanks for the input and I hope this will help anyone with questions.
 
Do you have a pic of the old bearing?

New clutch, pedal effort can feel deceivingly soft, almost like where's my clutch compared to old nasty system. It's a bit like looking at your HS yearbook photo vs today's pic.
 
Do you have a pic of the old bearing?

New clutch, pedal effort can feel deceivingly soft, almost like where's my clutch compared to old nasty system. It's a bit like looking at your HS yearbook photo vs today's pic.

No, but all that was left were the rings which fell apart when the trans was pulled back. And yes, that is exactly how my new clutch feels. I actually asked my mechanic if it looked like the HD clutch I originally had in there.
 
Even if it’s only pieces it MAY be possible to determine mfgr or rule out a mfgr based on design elements that could survive even a major destroy.
 
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