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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Spinner II install

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Mundgyver said:
I have another 2,600 miles of driving before my next oil analysis goes in. so we will see what we come up with.



We'll get back home from this RV trip in a couple of weeks, then time for an oil change and analysis including a particle count - I'm doing a comparison between my Fleetguard 3894 and the Donaldson full flow filters to see if there's any significant difference...



I would also be interesting to see the same with the Spinner...
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
We'll get back home from this RV trip in a couple of weeks, then time for an oil change and analysis including a particle count - I'm doing a comparison between my Fleetguard 3894 and the Donaldson full flow filters to see if there's any significant difference...



I would also be interesting to see the same with the Spinner...

GAry,

Have you ever done a "Particle count" before? Generally, particle counts are used for hydraulic fluids to measure specific numbers of particles within a specific size range of 50 microns or less.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
That's a good idea on the turbo drain. I thought about using that, but I ended up just going to the oil fill cap. I might move it.
 
amsoilman said:
GAry,

Have you ever done a "Particle count" before? Generally, particle counts are used for hydraulic fluids to measure specific numbers of particles within a specific size range of 50 microns or less.



Wayne

amsoilman



No Wayne, never have - although there are a fair number of such analysis over on "Bob the Oil Guy" site as used in engine oil for comparison - I also needed to get a reasonable number of miles on the engine for various wear particles to settle a bit.



This first Fleetguard particle count test will be for the base number to check against the Donaldson - absolutely nothing scientific, just a rough general test of relative numbers.
 
Mundgyver please give us an update on your oil reports and I for on am so ready t install a spinner but am stuck in the planning stage any perfecte recipe on the materials as ar as how long the lines are and so on, and would you offer to make me a fitting for a resonable price I would just asume let you fab it up as go all the way to cummins and then to my welder/neighbor.
 
I can fab up a fitting for you. I have the barbs fitting on hand, just need to go down and pick up the block fitting and cut and weld them up. I can now weld stainless as I have the correct gas and wire to do it with.



The spinner is still running, but I am keeping an eye on my oil a little more close than I really want to. My engine has almost 180,000 on it which means that it has some wear. Now with that said here is what is going on.



My last oil sample which I posted on another post came back as still good oil to use but my copper content had jumped from a count of 1 at 148,000 top a count of 134 at the present time.



This increase in copper could be from the bronz bushings used in the Spinner. When I did my clean out, I got a TAR Ball out of the Spinner about the size of the end of my little finger.



I also did a particle count which is where the real surprise came in.



2 Micron = 2396

5 Micron = 888

10 Micron = 246

15 Micron = 95

25 Micron = 22

50 Micron = 2

100 Micron = 0



This data is disapointing to me, but I have seen other reports from members with engines that have allot less miles on them with particle counts in the same range. So is this good or bad. I do not know at this time.



I bought the unit to remove soot and it is doing that, not as fast as I would like but it is doing that.



If I had the money, I would like to rig the spinner with a electric motor that would spin it up to 10,000 rpm and then trickle the oil into it for maximum swell time. I think this would be a better way to go. I would also drop the 1 gallon per minute input down to 5 oz at 5 psi which would give the centrifuge action allot of time to spin out all the soot vice just part of it.



The high copper could be comming from by turbo bushing also which is the original HX-35 with this engine. So I have some thinking to do.



Any suggestions :)
 
Could it be coming from your oil cooler? I think this has come up before and been attributed to oil coolers leaching copper into the oil after 100k miles or so.
 
Wally, at least as far as the Copper is concerned, I'd sorta wait for another sample at a normal mileage before getting too excited about it - even at the level you got, it's still not really alarming - unless it continues or gets worse.



Yours is the first particle count I've seen for the Spinner, where did you find others?



Thanks for keeping us all updated on your setup, it's very informative and helpful! Oo.
 
Mundgyver or anybody else. I have a 96 Dodge Cummins and I would like to put a Spinner on it but i do not have the drain opening on my motor that you have. Has any one else put one of these Spinners on there motors that do not have the extra drain hole in the block?

Thanks for the help.
 
Lefty,

I also have a 12v "97" 3500 I had to "T" into the Turbo oil drain line. I've since abandoned that setup. Currently using Amsoil Bypass system, installed remotely.



That model 25 SpinnerII, must be the only model that does'nt require an AIR supply.

All the other Spinners that I've looked at require onboard compressed air.....

-Glen-
 
There should be 4 drain ports per engine, 2 per side, 12 v or 24 v, shold not matter. The Spinners with the air injection are for remote mounting so the oil can be pushed back to the crank case, other wise they can be mounted high and just use gravity flow.
 
Mundgyver,

Help me out here... you're telling me that there are four (4) drain ports cast into our 12 & 24 valve engines? Two per side?



I have a "97" 12v and the only drain port that I was able to see was the Turbo oil return line/drain port.



If you can show me a pic of a "plugged drain port" on the Turbo side of a 12v, I'd like to see it. While your at it a pic of the same on the pump side of the engine would be nice. I don't like the thought of havig to punch a hole into the side of the oilpan.

Glen
 
You should have a pair of metal-insert plugged ports about 1/2 inch or slightly larger in diameter on each side of the lower engine block just above the engine pan flange. The trick is getting the pressed-in plugs removed in order to use those ports - and I dunno if they are threaded, or just smooth-bore openings inro the pan area.
 
Yep the drain ports look like water jacket freeze plugs at about a 30 deg angle along the bottom of the block. Since the 5. 9 was designed for multiple application and configurations, the turbo oil return ports were located 2 per side for and aft.



I have enough parts to make 5 return ports. The stainless steel barb fitting was the most expensive part at $14 and for some reason Cummins and up'd the price on the oil line tube. Used they cost about $2 but new they want $12.



$30 will cover the cost of the parts and the welding consumables. Last one I made, I sent down to Sacremento and I thing the mail charged me about $3.



I can make up some set this week for those that are interested. Just give me a PM if you want one. I just got home from a trip to Boise and I have to work tommorrow (Sun, Mon, Tues, and Wed). Thursday will be my first day off and I can put them together and mail them out on Friday.



Hopfully this works. I have come back and edit'd this post after finding a 12V model pic and drawing lines to show that it does in fact have 3 return ports on the drivers side of the block. ;)
 
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Thanks for the picture, Mundgyver. The first chance I can get the truck in the air (on a lift) I'll have a closer look at it, now that I have the pic to use as a reference.



Since it's a 4x2 it's a little difficult for a big man to crawl under.

Thank you again for your help. Glen
 
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