Spyntek Hubs or not?

[crazy jerry]

hmm weird. when i put gopro under the truck the driveline doesnt turn one bit
with the cad uncoupled the short shafts rotate opposite direction and counter act movement of the carrier.
besides the have you ever tried to rotate the driveline by hand. its a tall order to over the high oil viscosity , side bearing resistance from being drenched in oil , ring gear churning through the oil, pinion seal and bearing friction , ujoint resistance , double cardan knuckle resistance , churn the tcase chain around its sprockets and through light viscous oil ,plus a tcase seal

 

[lpennock]

Thanks, maybe I'll jack it up and see if the driveshaft can be stopped if I turn the wheels by hand.

Try turning the driveshaft by hand with the front wheels on the ground. While not likely you could have a bad CAD unit.

 

[dpotter]

My 22 does not have the standard double cardan, just a flexible rubber boot, like on a c/v joint. Probably does the same thing.

 

[dpotter]

I will try turning it by hand and let you know.

 

[dpotter]

It does turn by hand with the truck stationary. When it was turning with the truck moving, it was less than 5 mph. Must have been trying to overcome the drag in the system, most likely will quite turning at higher speeds.

 

[AH64ID]

My 22 does not have the standard double cardan, just a flexible rubber boot, like on a c/v joint. Probably does the same thing.

There should be a flexible rubber boot on the axle end to allow the shaft to change size with suspension articulation. Is that the boot you’re talking about?

 

[NIsaacs]

There should be a flexible rubber boot on the axle end to allow the shaft to change size with suspension articulation. Is that the boot you’re talking about?

I think he was talking about this type front drive shaft on the t-case end. Not the boot covered, splined, slider end at the dif.

Not this type.

 

[Ozymandias]

CV driveshaft is right, came in with MY 19 if I remember correctly.

 

[dpotter]

Correct, mine looks like the one in the picture on the top. Not sure what type of joint the boot is covering. Anyone know if it is a c/v type joint?

 

[Ozymandias]

Absolutely, it's a normal CV joint for high RPM applications.
I had these shafts in the late nineties in my Grand Cherokee.

 

[bcbender]

and bonus, got rid of that last u joint grease fitting in the double cardan so now completely maintenance free.

 

[dpotter]

Winner! That was always a PITA to get to and properly grease. I really don't believe they were all zerk fittings as I never could get my 17 to accept any grease.

 

[Topzide]

Update on repairs, Got the drivers side done yesterday! What A PITA without a garage or shop to work in! The best thing in getting the hub/bearing unit out was the trick of loosening the bolt a few threads, then placing a socket with extensions to back up against the frame and use the power steering to push the bearing unit out! Work great! Wish I'd had known this when doing the 1500 units! And for those who don't think that the greasable u-joints wouldn't be strong enough, military 6x6's use them and look what they go through! Also in the Humvee's. And we all know that they're driven with great care. I've been dealing with greasable joints on equipment for years on ag. PTO shafts take a lot of shock loads on rotary cutters and haven't had a failure! May have just changed that! Recovering to do other side, but wanted to give an update.

 

[AH64ID]

Yeah the PS trick is slick, I used it on my 05 and it saved a lot of choice words. Which joints did you install?

Greasable joints are plenty strong, just not as strong. I wouldn’t use Military 6x6 and HUMVEE’s as proof, those damn things are always broken and not as strong as they look, plus 20K miles in 40 years in nothing to brag about

The OEM greasable joints on our 4Runner have 218K on them and are doing great. More maintenance and more mess, when they get replaced it won’t be with greasable.

 

[petersonj]

I am impressed with modern non-greaseable u-joints. By modern, I mean in the last 30 years. Several years ago (at 215,000 miles) I replaced the non-greaseable u-joints on my truck's front axle shafts. I was doing it as a preventative maintenance measure. I bought greaseable u-joints to replace them.

When I took the non-greaseables apart, I was amazed at their condition. No shiny spots or any indication of early brinelling - just clean lubricant over posts that looked new - the posts still had the light scratches left from machining, kind of like the scratches on a cylinder wall from honing. So much for the preventative maintenance measure...

Of course, I installed the greaseable u-joints just because I already had them and they are serving me well. After reading more about how non-greaseable u-joints are made with a much better sealing system, I should have bought the non-greaseables.

- John

 

[crazy jerry]

the sealing system is different and no doubt its not just ordinary grease either. alot of awd cars from early 2000s probly still have original sealed joints on the drivesaft

 

[Topzide]

Failed to report that I had 2 dry caps on the drivers side! This was the clicking that I had been hearing. I'm maintenance driven, so greasable work for me!

 

[Topzide]

Pictures of the u-joints. Worst side was on the passengers side! I was shocked about the passengers side @ 163K! Should be the last time for those!

 

[crazy jerry]

the rusty side got water in there some how. wonder if the seals were bad from the get go. ive seen brand new sealed joints bad on a couple fords. if theres any greasr flinging out then somethings wrong at the seal. 163k still aint bad

 

[kthaxton]

Shot of WD-40 and that would have been good to go.