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Steering gears and track bars

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Starter Hesitation

Transmission carnage in Muncie

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I attended an event for early Dodge 4X4 trucks last week. There was considerable discussion about our new trucks. Several guys has trucks that had their third steering gear, and problems coming back. One of them had three gears in 18,000 miles. The dealer told him it was an engineering problem, and did not want to fix it anymore.



My question is this: Is there any aftermarket supplier that might be designing some sort of retrofit kit to change this arrangement into something that works and can survive? It seems absurd that steering gears are consumed at the rate that they apparently are. Also, the rate of track bar failure should be an embarassment to Chrysler.



I suppose the configuration of the front frame would prevent a practical way to do this, but it is too bad someone can't make a kit that converts the truck to a leaf spring front, and somehow eliminates the geometry that subjects the steering gears to whatever forces are destroying them.



I was lucky, my V10 powered 1999 went 50,000 and required no gear, but did wander the entire time. The dealer told me that is the way they steer. My Cummins 2001 pulls to the right, and apparently that is the way they are. It is also very crown sensitive. No steering gear failures in this truck so far. At times I wish I had bought a Ford, except I really like this engine.



Any thoughts on how to truly resolve these problems?
 
MY 2001. 5 pulls to the left, like it is set up for a very crowned road. I am afraid to have the dealer try to fix it. SNOKING
 
STEERING

Mine pulls to the right. I just put on Ranco 9000's. The shocks seem to help with the front a little but, the pull is still present. In a past issue of TDR Magazine, someone adjusted the champher or something and that seemed to help.
 
..... the rate of track bar failure should be an embarassment to Chrysler. ..... Fritz has posted on his site ". . often failing after only 20,000 on diesel trucks used off road. . ". Mine failed at 13k miles.



My truck pulled to the right from day one. Now, with the new track bar, it drives much better. Very suprised the local dealer did such a good job on the repair.
 
I can't argue that the front end technology used in our HD trucks should have not been used and kept for the 1500 and jeep vehicles.



But while other report failures of 13K - 20K. I seen just as many go much more. . those I know were greased and used off road.

I'm up to 26K, mostly towing, probably 1/2 off road, lots of off road without towing. While I have the basic wondering that everyone complains about my track bar is like new. I grease it every oil change and I checked the torque of the tie rod end when I 1st got it based on what I hear.



I wonder ( and we will never know the truth). .

1)how many were incorrectly torqued from DC that failed early?

2) how often was the failed trackbar truely greased that failed early?



I think there's more to the story than just that the track bar is crap. I think there are other figures to the whole formula.



I for one would have loved to seen leaf springs in the front end, which is the reason I almost bought a ford. But I wanted a real diesel engine... so I have my CTDRam... . if it wasnt for the CTD,,, I probably would have a ford sitting in the driveway.
 
Must be lucky!

My 96 went over 200K before anyting was done to the front end. I then added a Lukes Link to the factory original track bar. When doing it, it was evident the joint was fine and did not need replacing. Steering is untouched. Unpper and lower ball joints are tight. Drive straight, no pulles.



BTW, this truck has had the dog sh?t pulled out of it.



I know there are problem trucks, maybe even problem years, but their are allot (majority??) of good high milage trucks.



jjw

ND
 
the two big things I can denote are

1) making sure it's installed correctly, in particular the balljoint end it torqued down correctly. If loose, it wont be seated correctly and can cause excessive forces in the ball joint and worse yet the mount on the frame, ruining both.

2) grease, grease, grease, grease, grease... ... ... .

3) remove excees grease from the outside so it doesnt keep dirt next to the joint which could get forced in under the right situation.



Every one I've seen - it's a wear issue. nothing bends, nothing breaks. The ball join just wears out.



With the weight of the CTD on the front end, there's a lot of loading.
 
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