2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering 'jiggling'

[Seafood10]

Hi, not sure how to describe it but after I took out the side of a Taxi, his fault, I had the insurance put in a new control arm and brand new factory box. I have had it back in the same suspension/alignment shop 4 times becuase of this 'loose jiggling' feeling that I am feeling at the wheel.

If I am driving straight on a smmoth road I don't feel it much but if I go on a rough road I rally feel it. Tehy have checked everything over and over and all suspension parts/links are fine and I just don't know what to do any longer. This happens to be one of those pet peeves that everyone has, mine is having a jiggling wheel, got it from driving my 69 Mustang for many hyears with the same thing.

Anyway, what else can it be, do wee need to adjust the box some more, they said that they did that but don't want to tighten it down too much as it will bind.

Please help this OCD guy!

Thanks

Sean

 

[kenny61]

Hi, not sure how to describe it but after I took out the side of a Taxi, his fault, I had the insurance put in a new control arm and brand new factory box. I have had it back in the same suspension/alignment shop 4 times becuase of this 'loose jiggling' feeling that I am feeling at the wheel.

If I am driving straight on a smmoth road I don't feel it much but if I go on a rough road I rally feel it. Tehy have checked everything over and over and all suspension parts/links are fine and I just don't know what to do any longer. This happens to be one of those pet peeves that everyone has, mine is having a jiggling wheel, got it from driving my 69 Mustang for many hyears with the same thing.

Anyway, what else can it be, do wee need to adjust the box some more, they said that they did that but don't want to tighten it down too much as it will bind.

Please help this OCD guy!

Thanks

Sean

Is it the same shop you keep going to? Ask around and try another

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Dude, grab some chips and a beer, pull up a comfy chair, and type in 'Steering' and 'Death Wobble' into the search feature.



Your'e going to be reading awhile, but I bet you fix your rig with all of the knowledge you find.



Plus there are some awesome aftermarket parts you can buy to put your steering on steroids. The BD Steering Brace, Luke's Links and the badass Thuren Trackbar to name a couple. Happy reading

 

[Seafood10]

Dude, grab some chips and a beer, pull up a comfy chair, and type in 'Steering' and 'Death Wobble' into the search feature.



Your'e going to be reading awhile, but I bet you fix your rig with all of the knowledge you find.



Plus there are some awesome aftermarket parts you can buy to put your steering on steroids. The BD Steering Brace, Luke's Links and the badass Thuren Trackbar to name a couple. Happy reading

Hi, yeah I have the dss brace already and have already done the reading on what you suggested but the issue is that prior to the accident my steering was like new, mostly because fo the DSS brace. So the facts are that prior to accident, perfect and tight steering, after accident and after new factory box and pitman arm and some tie rods there is a jiggling. So obviously there is something going on here that should be pretty easy to fix that is being overlooked.



Maybe it is time to go to a different shop, issue is that this is all under insurance and have to see what they will allow me to do.

 

[Pavemen]

check the steering shaft? any feedback from the wheel to the tie rod to the drag link up into the steering box makes it way back up to the steering shaft.

 

[Seafood10]

check the steering shaft? any feedback from the wheel to the tie rod to the drag link up into the steering box makes it way back up to the steering shaft.

Great, thanks for help. what do you think would be the best way to do this? My weakness is steering and suspension. Also, are you aware if there is a steering wheel bushing that is easy to change?

I really thought that with all of the new components it would be tighter than factory but something is happening, I just don't get it.

 

[Pavemen]

the shaft can be reached from the engine compartment, at least enough to grab it and try to move it up and down (perp to the shaft), try to rotate it and try to slide it up or down (parallel to the shaft). this will test the rag joint and the connections are the steering column and box.

the steering column bushing at the firewall could also be bad. that can be a PITA to change but there are some threads about t with pics or links to pic here somewhere.

 

[LandShark]

Have you checked the steering dampener? Maybe it was damaged in the crash or just worn out.

 

[Seafood10]

the shaft can be reached from the engine compartment, at least enough to grab it and try to move it up and down (perp to the shaft), try to rotate it and try to slide it up or down (parallel to the shaft). this will test the rag joint and the connections are the steering column and box.



the steering column bushing at the firewall could also be bad. that can be a PITA to change but there are some threads about t with pics or links to pic here somewhere.

Thanks again, I now at least have a direction to go and will check what you indicated.

 

[Seafood10]

Have you checked the steering dampener? Maybe it was damaged in the crash or just worn out.

Thanks, I did install a new one last year fom Napa and the guys at the shop also said that it was in good working order. The steering after the crash still seemed solid and did not have this problem, only after the new parts were installed and actually the first night I got it from the shop it seemed solid but then drove it longer the next day it seemed to 'loosen' up again. The shop is a highly recommended reputable shop and those guy know what they are doing so I will have to focus my attention with the steering column bushings I am thinking.

 

[Jetson]

You might have an out of round wheel. Just a slight amount will cause an intermittent shake.

 

[GHedger]

take a good look at your track bar ,the last one I changed was worn out at the bushing on the axle side. adding a little caster to the alignment wont hurt either

 

[LHastings]

Have you check for a bent rim? Also like Ghedger check your caster.

 

[Seafood10]

Hey, thanks for all of the replies, they'er really appreciated! I ordered the Rock Solid Steering bushing and am going to install that when it arrives, for only 60. 00 if it doesn't fix the job I am not out a lot of cash and will then focus my attention to your suggestions.

Sean

 

[Canadian Cummins]

This is a copy from Bret, a Gold Certified Chrysler tech.
I hope he does not mind me reposting his position on this famous problem:
---------------------------------------------------------------------
In a previous posting written by ???? (don't remember), they were complaining about a shimmy in their Ram 4x4 after striking bumps in the road.
I suggested that the front end alignment has either too little or too much caster, thus causing a caster shimmy. He did not like my response and changed his concern from a "shimmy" to a "bounce" (big difference), and insisted it was the shocks. Maybe it is, I haven't driven it. He also said the alignment "checked out".

Here's the problem:
Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).
The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer) tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they were in this broad range of acceptance.
Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some 30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics" training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates
caster shimmy.
Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can see if you had a job well done,
The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable in eight different ways.
Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).
FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!
If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).
A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.
Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.
Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!

Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs
below are in degrees.


Left Wheel Right Wheel actual 17/Jan/05 top rh need to move
-------------- ----------------

Caster 3. 2 3. 5 3. 8 3. 7
Cross Caster -. 3 +. 1 -. 4 back
Then reset caster to 3. 2

Camber -. 10 -. 10 -0. 1 -0. 4 . 3out
Cross Camber 0. 0

Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will
pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent
ASE Certified
Gold Certified Chrysler tech
_________________________________________________________________
I followed his instructions and watched my alignment tech adjust untill it meet the above spec's what a difference.
hope this helps.
Canadian CUmmins

 

[budnate]

Awsome info!!!, I am just geting done with replacing everthing under the front on my truck and need to get it alighned... printing this baby and heading to see the man.



Thnx, B.

 

[Seafood10]

Wow, thanks for the in depth reply, much appreciated. I will print it out and take it with me back to them. Because of lack of time on my side I may have them install the Rock Solid busing for me and then go through your post and check everything again. I will definitley post a follow up afterwards, I am still waiting for the bushing though so I am suspecting that if I get it delivered next week I will take the truck in then and have an update hopefully within a week.

Sean

 

[Beast2B]

you might also check the bearing on the DSS. if the steering got whacked, it may have damaged the bearing 9or at least knocked it off center)

 

[rivercat]

how bout a tire rotation biggist amplifier of pull I have found. lower ply tires will pull more as more sidewall flex allows wander or wobble. I would say that if you rotate and it pulls the same its in the adjustment of the front end like stated above but maybe you have a bad tire with a separated belt or something...

 

[Seafood10]

you might also check the bearing on the DSS. if the steering got whacked, it may have damaged the bearing 9or at least knocked it off center)

I would like to try that, do you know where to get a new bearing, I thought I heard that they are available at a number of places, tractor supply? Is there any model number that anyone knows of?

thanks