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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission steering shaft question

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I have changed all of my front steering to T style steering dt-profab trac bar now on to the steering shaft. how much play should this have when parked if I grab and twist seems I can move it about 1/2 either direction. seems my truck over 1/2 year of driving for awhile now seems the steering wheel will re-clock it self slightly to the right when going down the road. alignment has been done. I know who to correct it by adjusting the upper sleeve. just wondering if this is a cause of the steering shaft or something else. also if I do replace the steering shaft is the money worth it for a borgenson shaft or what?



2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC HTT 62/14 SB-DD3600 TST PM3/*REVO-BETA*SMARTY MACH 4'S, RINGED AND STUDS, AFE/2:eek: " FTE 6" STACK D/PRICOL GAUGES, FASS 150, VULCAN 1/2 DRAW-STRAW, 3/8 FUEL LINE, DSS-BOX DT PRO-FAB TRAC BAR, CONV-T STYLE STEERING,DUNKS TRACTION BARS, AIR BAGS,17'' KMC BLACK HOSS, 37" TOYO MT'S 6" RCD LONG ARM LIFT. :-laf... THANKS RIP DiPricol Gauges
 
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Try having a friend clamp down the steering shaft at the bottom joint, so there is no play. Then wiggle the steering wheel back and forth to check for play. If there is no play, you don't need a shaft. I plan to change the shaft because the borgenson box requires the borgenson shaft. I heard you could cut a notch in the input shaft, but it voids the boxes warranty. I have not used one yet, but the borgenson shaft should be a good upgrade. It's just one less thing to worry about in the future. Hope my opinion helped some.
 
makes sense I guess the middle section of the shaft is what has all the movement, just seems like there shouldn't be this much movement
 
Pull the shaft out and check it out of the truck. You will have to pull it to change it anyway and once you take it out if you need to put it back in it will come out even easier the next time. The Borgeson shaft if my choice. I have had both borgeson and flaming river shafts (both with borgeson joints) and the flaming river will slide easier but it, or mine anyway, had other issues. If you search my posts I probably posted most of what I had to say.

If you are trying to eliminate the phantom clunk and have a bad lower column bushing the easier sliding shaft will aggravate it less.
 
thanks for all the help. I dont have a clunk well bad ball joint noise new ball joints and axle joints are waiting to be installed. I will replace the shaft. I was doing some reading on the borg and that they rust easily is this still true on the current ones. if I do by one probley will hit it with clear coat or just paint it. thanks again
 
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