Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Well, I drove the truck 100 miles yesterday with the newly rebuilt column - Wow, what a difference it makes ! :--)
It's no stretch to say that the steering and handling feel is 'better than new' - the stock column must be designed with huge slop even when new - then it gets worse !
As Scott Morneau said earlier: you won't believe how rinky dink the lower column bushing is. YOU CAN SAY THAT AGAIN !
Funny thing is, I pulled out like 5 Dodge separate parts / pieces:
retainer washer,
preload spring,
spring / bearing bushing,
bearing cone,
bearing,
plastic cup
We replaced it with 1 single machined Nylon bushing, that's it.
My dad says 'what kinda monkey motion thing is this stock thing !!' Oo.
Must be auto design by burea-c-rats ! (same ones that design our US immigration & border policy ?)
Driving impressions: The steering has a totally different feel. It's not just that it doesn't clunk (that would be enough. . ) but now the whole front end feels laser precise - as if it now has rack & pinion steering. I can now feel all the new front end things I already replaced: COOL !
Our dirt road has undulations & uneven dips & creavses and now when I go over them, the groaning & forces aren't felt in the wheel.
Things go bad slowly, we get used to them - the stock column had a loosey goosey feel - now that it's rock solid & precise it's amazing - drives like a new truck !!!
I want to say that I am indebted to Scott Morneau & HEMI - DART for finding the source of the problem & fixing it first - this method of making the lower column bushing (to be described with dimensions below) is but the next development of what they already did.
I'd have never tried this, if not for them.
I read every single post (so it seemed... ) of anyone complaining of any funny noise in the front end or steering, and these guys were the only two I found who traced this annoyingly persistent 'clunk, rattle, or popping' sound it to the steering column - to the lower column bushing -- and had figured out a custom fix. Bravo guys !
2nd place award goes to the several guys who had Dodge replace their columns 2 or 3 times - with the same poor design. There was a time around 95-97 when Dodge replaced 'em free - No longer - now, they're $ 700 or so.
My truck had every front end component replaced / upgraded so I knew it couldn't be anything there - it MUST be elsewhere.
I must also mention: my Borgeson steering shaft was a big part of the problem, the sliding joint being way TOO stiff. I don't know if I got a bad one, or they're all that way. I collapsed it to allow room to reconnect the rebuit column, and it couldn't be pulled up. I removed it, put it in a vise, still couldn't pull it up. Might need disassembly.
Good thing I had bought a new one at Dodge parts yesterday. I know it's a stocker, but I feel it is an improved part - looks beefier than the stock original unit, and it glides so easily, it won't put stress on the column.
While researching this problem, I noted, a lot of guys did the Borgeson shaft, and their 'clunk' remained or got worse. Not every time, but many times. That joint MUST move freely, or bad things happen.
Anyhow, I will put out how exactly we made this lower bushing for those who want to do it themselves. It's simple if you have a lathe or access to one.
** I may make some and offer them here if I get enough requests - pm me or post here if you want one that way **
Details: (see pics below)
Nylon (white color) - Delrin or other plastic might work, too
Round stock 2. 10 " diameter
1. 75 " inches long (or depth that goes in column lower tube)
Turn down OD to 2. 040" for approximately 1. 65 " of it's length, leaving a small shoulder at the top that that is 2. 10 " (our original diameter) for about . 10 of the length (depth).
At the end opposite of the shoulder end, you may wish to 'turn down' the Nylon a bit further, a few thousands more, to assist in getting the bushing 'started' into the tube upon installation.
Important - the shoulder is what stops it when you drive it into the lower column tube - you must not make the shoulder diameter larger than the outside of the lower column tube, or the rebuilt column won't fit through the bottom toe plate.
Now, precisely (again, we used the lathe) drill a 1" hole in the center of the nylon bushing, going slowly so the material doesn't overheat.
There, it's made - done.
To get off the stock junk parts, just cut very carefully- (we used a die grinder with a very small cutting wheel) - the steel retaining washer that holds on the spring, then once the spring is off, carefully pry out the cheap plastic lower column bushing & bearing assembly.
Now you can slide the new bushing over the steering shaft and into the tube, using a proper diameter piece of pipe - we used a chunk of PVC - drive it into the lower column housing tube.
You're done.
Now the column can be reinstalled in the truck. We highly suggest using the "steering column removal" instructions in the Factory service manual for reference.
If you lack the manual, a good resource is to sign up for the use of them online at www.AllDataDIY.com -
Sorry I didn't get a photo of the finished bushing by itself -but the pics of it in the end of the column show it pretty good.
I sure hope this can help a few of you fellow TDR guys that have struggled with this persistent problem.
Post here or PM me, if this raises any questions on the procedure, or you want us to consider making this 'Column Fix Bushing' available.
Take Care, David B.
It's no stretch to say that the steering and handling feel is 'better than new' - the stock column must be designed with huge slop even when new - then it gets worse !
As Scott Morneau said earlier: you won't believe how rinky dink the lower column bushing is. YOU CAN SAY THAT AGAIN !
Funny thing is, I pulled out like 5 Dodge separate parts / pieces:
retainer washer,
preload spring,
spring / bearing bushing,
bearing cone,
bearing,
plastic cup
We replaced it with 1 single machined Nylon bushing, that's it.
My dad says 'what kinda monkey motion thing is this stock thing !!' Oo.
Must be auto design by burea-c-rats ! (same ones that design our US immigration & border policy ?)
Driving impressions: The steering has a totally different feel. It's not just that it doesn't clunk (that would be enough. . ) but now the whole front end feels laser precise - as if it now has rack & pinion steering. I can now feel all the new front end things I already replaced: COOL !
Our dirt road has undulations & uneven dips & creavses and now when I go over them, the groaning & forces aren't felt in the wheel.
Things go bad slowly, we get used to them - the stock column had a loosey goosey feel - now that it's rock solid & precise it's amazing - drives like a new truck !!!
I want to say that I am indebted to Scott Morneau & HEMI - DART for finding the source of the problem & fixing it first - this method of making the lower column bushing (to be described with dimensions below) is but the next development of what they already did.
I'd have never tried this, if not for them.
I read every single post (so it seemed... ) of anyone complaining of any funny noise in the front end or steering, and these guys were the only two I found who traced this annoyingly persistent 'clunk, rattle, or popping' sound it to the steering column - to the lower column bushing -- and had figured out a custom fix. Bravo guys !
2nd place award goes to the several guys who had Dodge replace their columns 2 or 3 times - with the same poor design. There was a time around 95-97 when Dodge replaced 'em free - No longer - now, they're $ 700 or so.
My truck had every front end component replaced / upgraded so I knew it couldn't be anything there - it MUST be elsewhere.
I must also mention: my Borgeson steering shaft was a big part of the problem, the sliding joint being way TOO stiff. I don't know if I got a bad one, or they're all that way. I collapsed it to allow room to reconnect the rebuit column, and it couldn't be pulled up. I removed it, put it in a vise, still couldn't pull it up. Might need disassembly.
Good thing I had bought a new one at Dodge parts yesterday. I know it's a stocker, but I feel it is an improved part - looks beefier than the stock original unit, and it glides so easily, it won't put stress on the column.
While researching this problem, I noted, a lot of guys did the Borgeson shaft, and their 'clunk' remained or got worse. Not every time, but many times. That joint MUST move freely, or bad things happen.
Anyhow, I will put out how exactly we made this lower bushing for those who want to do it themselves. It's simple if you have a lathe or access to one.
** I may make some and offer them here if I get enough requests - pm me or post here if you want one that way **
Details: (see pics below)
Nylon (white color) - Delrin or other plastic might work, too
Round stock 2. 10 " diameter
1. 75 " inches long (or depth that goes in column lower tube)
Turn down OD to 2. 040" for approximately 1. 65 " of it's length, leaving a small shoulder at the top that that is 2. 10 " (our original diameter) for about . 10 of the length (depth).
At the end opposite of the shoulder end, you may wish to 'turn down' the Nylon a bit further, a few thousands more, to assist in getting the bushing 'started' into the tube upon installation.
Important - the shoulder is what stops it when you drive it into the lower column tube - you must not make the shoulder diameter larger than the outside of the lower column tube, or the rebuilt column won't fit through the bottom toe plate.
Now, precisely (again, we used the lathe) drill a 1" hole in the center of the nylon bushing, going slowly so the material doesn't overheat.
There, it's made - done.
To get off the stock junk parts, just cut very carefully- (we used a die grinder with a very small cutting wheel) - the steel retaining washer that holds on the spring, then once the spring is off, carefully pry out the cheap plastic lower column bushing & bearing assembly.
Now you can slide the new bushing over the steering shaft and into the tube, using a proper diameter piece of pipe - we used a chunk of PVC - drive it into the lower column housing tube.
You're done.
Now the column can be reinstalled in the truck. We highly suggest using the "steering column removal" instructions in the Factory service manual for reference.
If you lack the manual, a good resource is to sign up for the use of them online at www.AllDataDIY.com -
Sorry I didn't get a photo of the finished bushing by itself -but the pics of it in the end of the column show it pretty good.
I sure hope this can help a few of you fellow TDR guys that have struggled with this persistent problem.
Post here or PM me, if this raises any questions on the procedure, or you want us to consider making this 'Column Fix Bushing' available.
Take Care, David B.
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