2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Wheel Clunk / Rattle : Solved With Column Bushing Fix !

[fest3er]

Cool! Glad to see a fix is available. I've known for a year or two that my lower bushing is shot. When I finally realized the clunking was higher up, I checked my Flaming River shaft and the joints, but it was all solid. But when I grabbed the upper end of the shaft and gave it a good shake, I could see the motion in the column at the firewall.



I haven't done anything yet due to lack of time, money and desire. But now that there is a fix available, I'll have to order one and install it when I have some time. I *might* have a weekend open later in September; if not, fixing it'll have to wait until November.



Question: would it be possible to put a couple diamond grooves inside the bushing? (That is, if the inside were laid flat, the grooves would resemble <>, but with the legs connected. ) Seems to me the groove(s) could be filled with grease prior to assembly; after that, turning the steering wheel should always redistribute the grease. It might even facilitate installing a zerk fitting.



N

 

[ProspectorTim]

I'm no expert on these bushings, but I have installed one. And no matter how hot the weather or drastic the weather change, I have no difference in steering friction. I believe something else is going on, but I'm not sure what it would be. Second, I don't believe these bushings need alot of lubrication. Plastic is made from petroleum, and is supposed to be self lubricating. I'm not sure what's going on, but I don't believe the bushing is the lone culprit here. Just my 2 cents.

Waylan

The problems I'm having are due to a TIGHT fit, and the fact that it is an automatic.
Hopefully a little honing on the inside of the bushing and/or polishing on the outside of the steering shaft will fix it. Once it is properly sized, the grease probably won't be needed, but it will make me feel better. ;

I had to really hammer mine in, which lead to the other problems. I don't expect it to be easy to get it back out to re-size it, but I'll try it later in the week.

 

[ProspectorTim]

Update:
I took the bushing out yesterday. It took about a pound of dry ice, a big screwdriver and another pry bar - and a bucket of sweat - but I got it back out without pulling the column.

I hand-sanded the inside and the outside of the bushing until I could push it almost all the way in without ANY hammering. When I was happy with the fit, I sprayed it inside and out with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector and re-installed it. A couple of LIGHT TAPS with the ratchet handle sent it in the last 1/4". It drives SO much easier now! If you ever had a power-steering belt break and had to drive a week before getting a new belt - that is the best comparison of my recent experience, except this was worse.

I think someone already mentioned this before, but I'll point it out again anyhow.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. WD stands for Water Displacement. It also cleans and protects metal and loosens rust, but it is not a lubricant. Well, I go to reading the can (I do that every now and then), and the same can be said for Amsoil Metal Protector. It is everything BUT a lubricant. However, Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector IS a lubricant.

MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector
A heavy duty spray lubricant fortified with special rust and corrosion inhibitors. Penetrates and adheres to metal surfaces, leaving a long lasting protective coating. Apply MPHD to any metal surface that requires a heavy duty lubricant or is exposed to the damaging effects of salt, moisture or chemical corrosion. Works as an undercoat, leaving a wax-like film. Recommended for motorcycle chains. Won't "sling" off. Dry to the touch. Doesn't attract dust. It is ideal for hinges, wire ropes and springs, nuts and bolts, motorcycle or bicycle chains, and for undercoating car doors, wheel wells, rocker panels, seams and other metal surfaces exposed to water, dirt or road salt.

I keep both kinds in my shop, but you can be sure I'll grab the RIGHT can for the project from now on. LOL

 

[WTBurke]

Well guys, I ordered my Ram Truck Steering Fix'-Plus Kit on Monday. I even got a call from Dave within a couple of hours to follow up on the fact that I indeed had an Automatic.

It arrived so fast I knew I'd have a weekend project with my CTD.

The instructions are so clear and the photos are so clean that this afternoon I decided I'd give the "On the Truck repair" method a try.

I completed the job in one hour and fifteen minutes flat! The job is so easy if you have a little Dremmel Tool. I cut through the last spring turn against the press-on keeper and hacked straight through the little push-on keeper on the shaft. It popped right off like a big dog! It is of no danger while it's on the truck because your face is not going to get hit by a flying spring. Everything else was just a squirt of lubricant, wiggle around a bit to yank all the very lame factory junk out of the column and wham! (Wait until you guys see the lame factory bearing assembly!)

The new bushing Dave has prepared fit like a glove and with gentle tapping it sunk to the perfect level.

My steering is better than NEW and my autoshift on the column is just beautiful!

It truly is a sweet fix for our sloppy steering.



Thanks Dave!!!



WTBurke (Billy)

 

[SHobbs]

Guess I need this as well. My steering wheel has started making a clunking noise when turning the wheel and even does it when it straightens out on its own when turning. Is this the noise the one everyone is referring to in this thread? Is so this is the fix that will solve it?



Thanks, Scott

 

[ProspectorTim]

Yes, that is the noise, and this kit will fix it.

 

[WTBurke]

Scott, it's better than a "clunk" fix... . it's nice accurate steering without the wander in the steering wheel. Heck, sometimes I worry that some cop might think I'm drunk because of the loose feel



WTBurke

 

[DBazley]

Hey WT, great to hear it worked so sweetly for you. Boy your write up is so good, folks are gonna think I paid you. Ha Ha... .



Really, you did great - It sounds like in 'record time'. So you did have access - I recall we discussed whether that would be the case or not -



I know the clunk is gone, can you estimate how much of the excess 'play' has been taken out - you know the 'dead zone' where you could saw on the wheel and not really move the truck at all ?



On mine, I think it's as tight as it could be - no dead zone at all. Of course, I don't want to attribute it all to our Ram Steering fix, because before this, I added the Luke's link rebuilt trac bar, Rancho Control arms w/ poly bushings, DSS bracket, Poly sway bar bushings, THEN our Rock Solid Ram Truck Steering fix.



Together, it all works sweet - I have 0 % complaints about how the truck drives and handles. We live in the mountains, all the roads are winding highways, so I guess now it's safer and any weaving I may do is driver error, soley.



Regards, David B.

www.RockSolidRamTruckSteering.com

 

[WTBurke]

Hey David B.

Yes, the job was way easy but, a guy still gets a bit pinched working in such a close area. The time factor beats pulling the column if you can do it.

Your words are better than mine as to explain the "no-dead-zone" as one would "saw" the wheel back and forth. THAT'S IT! Best way to explain the overall results.

I have over 100k on my truck but, it's been cared for very well. Granted, all related components have some reasonable wear but, this was a huge improvement. My next step is the DSS bracket just because it's good engineering.



I will say though after reading about our inherent front end problems with the beloved CTD's over several years and all the money spent by many members trying to make an improvement in the overall "feel" of our trucks this particular "fix" is the best bang for your buck.



Seriously guys, I'm not affiliated with David's business in anyway and I'm not trying to "over sell" this fix but, honestly it truly is remarkable!

There nothing like having a "squirming noodle" inside a tube hidden from your view. The old expression of " out of sight, out of mind" rings true.



Again David, thanks for all your efforts. It really pays off.



WTBurke

 

[SHobbs]

Guess it's time to get back under the hood but, I will wait till this 100* streak we have going stops. Too hot to even be outside here.

 

[Matthug]

Hey guys, just saw this thread here. I noticed you guys are mentioning this bomb for 95-up trucks, and I'm not sure if it was mentioned because I didn't read all the pages to this thread but what about 94's? I see the steering shaft is listed seperate for 94's also, will this bushing fix not work on a 94? Again sorry if this was brought up in a previous page.

 

[Turbo Thom]

Just to let all know, I installed the fix on my hotrod and had one problem. I called David and told him. So now I'll tell you.



The bushing was just a little over sized at the last 1/4 inch. I call David to ask what he thought. I found the phone lines from Georgia to California are a little slow. . by the time I got his call back, I had screwed up. What happened was the bushing has to be driven in, so I did. The only thing was I had to drive it so hard, the steering column started to collapse. To get it to seat, I drove the round steel section on the bottom of the outer column into the mesh cover and that is what holds the column to length. It was a little doing to get it back right, but it is done.



Point, when you drive the bushing into the housing, support the back side of it, so it cannot move at all.



. . Preston. .

 

[WTBurke]

I gotta jump back in here, and share some incite. First off the most important thing is to maintain an extremely clean environment in order to sink this bushing to the proper level.

I did my install on the truck so I could not see inside the lower half of the column. Yes, I knew it was dirty so I knew I had to clean my "hole" out. That's correct, because I knew I was inserting an entire bushing into a "hole" that I couldn't examine by 'eye'.

The way this bearing is 'sized' requires "extreme" cleanliness and any debris will cause this bearing to seize up on it's way to proper seating.

I was 'tapping' mine while it was still installed on the truck. Yes, I stopped along the way and manipulated my autoshift on the column to detect any binding as I rowed it through the gear range.

I also made sure that my 'hole' was very clean in order to accept the bushing as it was being 'tapped' home. By the way... the term 'tapped' is correct... if you are beating the 'S--t' out of the white PVC pipe that is used as a 'drift' to drive the bushing into place you have a "dirty hole".

As for over all length, please look at the 'lame factory' bearing you are removing in order to sink this 'new bushing'... . I think you will find the dimensions of depth (length) to be very good.

I did my 2001. 5 without any trouble, if I have offended anyone, I did not mean to do so. I care for my fellow CTD brothers.



WTBurke



Again, I'm not affiliated with Dave's business and I am my own WARRANTY station

 

[Turbo Thom]

What in the world is said here to offend anybody? On mine, the shaft insides was wiped clean with a tee shirt. It was pretty clean to start with. I'm just pointing out the shaft will collapse out of the truck, where as in the truck, the three bolts that hold the plate to the fire wall, will hold it in place. I ain't fussing, if that's what you're getten at. Just something to watch for.



David, you got a defender here. This feller's ready to fight for ya.



. . Preston. .

 

[Matthug]

Hey guys, just saw this thread here. I noticed you guys are mentioning this bomb for 95-up trucks, and I'm not sure if it was mentioned because I didn't read all the pages to this thread but what about 94's? I see the steering shaft is listed seperate for 94's also, will this bushing fix not work on a 94? Again sorry if this was brought up in a previous page.

Anybody?

 

[WTBurke]

Mat,

I'm not sure about the 94'... perhaps David will chime in and share his information.



WTBurke

 

[WTBurke]

GKarpen: Yes I did perform this from the top. It isn't really that hard to do while on the truck.

I'm not a big guy, only 160Lbs but, I could get my arm between the firewall to perform the 'Dremmel-tool' cut procedure of the factory spring and push-on keeper. The 4-wheel anti-lock plumbing stuff makes it challenging but, it can be done.



The bushing David is producing is 'very close tolerance' so the soap-box I'm on about having your 'frictional-working surfaces' clean is the big part of preparation.



You can get the bushing started by hand. Now,... setting your drift (white pvc tool) in place, firm and positive taps will begin to 'sink her home'. At about 2/3rds from 'nest-point' I jumped behind the wheel and 'rowed' my column-shifter through the gears to 'feel' for any binding or 'frictional resistance' changes. I returned to my 'tapping' and again returned to my column-shifter perhaps 4, maybe 5 times until I brought the bushing to 'parade-rest' at the nest point.



This entire operation is really 'finesse' stuff with no muscle required. The bushing will 'drift' into place without any damage providing your disciplines of 'cleanliness' are acute.



I hope this helps

WTBurke

 

[Turbo Thom]

The one I posted about is on a 94 2 wheel drive.

 

[DBazley]

Back to you on '94 ram application....thanks David

Hi guys:



I'm back. It works on all 2nd gen Rams, so '94's also.



(I did have a fellow obtain one for his 1st gen Ram, he was thinking it would work, haven't heard back... . )



2wd or 4 wd, auto or manual, the columns are the same in terms of the oem lower bushing / bearing becoming loose over time & miles.



WTBurke, love your description of 'finessing' your bushing in. It does make sense, how you termed it.



Even if access is limited, it isn't like you're doing a whole lot down there, just a few simple motions... ... and one could always try it 'on truck' first, ONLY pulling the whole column, if unable to complete 'on truck'... ...



thanks,



David Bazley

www.RockSolidRamTruckSteering.com

 

[RMarlar]

I installed mine two weekends ago. I went for the remove column method. I think the whole process took maybe 2 hours. That's without dremmel tool or air. Instructions are great that are included. Results are fantastic as well. Thanks David, I told you on the phone that I would reply and give you my thoughts. I don't know that I could add to your instructions. I was expecting it to be a lot worse than it was. Thanks for your efforts. As far as manual transmission trucks are concerned, I wouldn't bother trying on the truck. The removal of the column is to simple to ensure cleanliness of the shaft before installation. Besides, I like to see what I'm doing and what I'm changing.