2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sticky brakes

[Heavy Metal]

I have always had a problem with my truck pulling to one side or the other under braking. Each time I have checked it I began by prying on the piston side pad to ensure that the pistons in the caliper are not sticking. In each case I found that they were not. Logically I assumed that the calipers were not floating properly. After having read many threads on the subject in which people said that they had problems with the calipers on these trucks binding on the pins, I guessed I had assumed right. I followed every piece of advice that I read (file out the pin holes, remove and lube the pins frequently, etc. ). Still the problem persisted and I came to the decision that all I could do was to keep the pins lubed and deal with it. Well, recently I deciced that I couldn't deal with it any longer and began to take the entire system apart. Again, the pistons compressed easily and the calipers came right off, but the brake pads were very tight on the anti-rattle springs. AH-HA! Epiphany: the calipers aren't sticking-the brake pads are sticking against the caliper. I took a flat file and filed the upright parts of the "ears" that slide on the anti rattle spings just until they were shiny (or just enough to knock the paint or coating off) and lo and behold, they slid freely on and off the anti rattle springs. I put everything back together and not only was the braking pull gone, but so was the steering wander that I always thought was normal for these trucks. Right on! I'm not by any means saying that all of the people that posted threads about sticking calipers were wrong in their particular situation, I'm just relaying my personal experience. This was a very simple solution to a very annoying problem and if it helps someone else, then great.



Bryan

 

[EBottema]

No leaking axle seals? Rule of thumb is if its pulling to the right then the left seal could be leaking, or visa versa



erik

 

[Chris N5CWM]

Thanks for the tip Bryan. My fronts are getting close to being worn out. Still on my original set of brakes at 69,xxx miles. I do have the dreaded steering wander but so far no brake pull. When I change the fronts I'll have to keep your tip in mind if I end up with a brake pull problem.

 

[RWhites]

Mine eats the inboard brake pad. No telling which one will do it first. I keep pads and rotors in stock in the garage. Brakes do seem to have their issues. I have lubed the slides and pins, filed the pad ears and just about all the tricks I know. I think my fix will be Wildwood racing calipers and custom mounting hardware.

Rich

 

[Heavy Metal]

Nope, seals are fine, my truck was driving straight unless I touched the brake pedal. I have worn out two sets of pads since my truck was new. The first set was at 112,000 miles, the second at 167,000 miles. In both cases it was because of one pad on each rotor that was worn significantly more than it's partner on the other side of the rotor. The last time they were so far gone that they would squeal when I applied the brakes. When I let off of the brakes they continued to squeal for several seconds and then quit. This is indicitive of a caliper or pad not moving away from the rotor due to either the caliper or pads not sliding freely. Had it been a stuck piston it would have squealed continuously unless it was stuck to a point that it still allowed some clearance between the pads and the rotor. Even in that case, a noise continuing only briefly still indicates that the pads or calipers are not floating freely. I am just grateful that mine was such a simple solution.



Bryan