2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stuck Duals

[ACoyle]

I have to address this sooner rather than later. I recently had a flat on one fo the duals. I took it to be fixed and they could not get the duals off the truck. Rust around the hubs appears to be the culprit.



They tried hammers, Hydraulic spreaders some foul encantations, and a bunch of other stuff that did not work. They ended up plugging the tire and sending me on my way.



1) Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you address it?



2) I noticed a threaded hole in the rim near the center. I am thinking of putting a bolt in there and maybe that will push on what is behind the rim and free it. Any thoughts about that?



All constructive suggestions welcome.



AC

 

[fox]

My answer is to put all the lugs back on and leave them 1 turn loose. Now go for a drive around the block. !! Only do it with NO LOAD!

When you put it back together put some light oil on it first.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I had that problem once on my 2500. The guy at the tire shop sat on the floor under the truck, (it was on a hydraulic lift), and kicked both sides of the tire, alternating sides, and at the same time. He had to work at it, too. It was rust, caused from not having my center caps on. At least that's what they told me. Since then, I've painted the hubs.



Jim

 

[ACoyle]

fox - I was thinking of that. Probably first hose it down with WD40 for a couple days.



Rams N Hogs - Can't really do that with duals an you gotta move both rims at the same time that way, double the resistance. They put a hydralic spreader between the rims and tried to separate them that way. No go!



I have also had difficulty with a front, but, I got that one off.



Big tires eeem to want to find all the scrap in the road.



AC

 

[Ron Bissett]

Yes had that problem . One clean with wire brush ,steel wool , scraper or other methods the rust around the hub . There is very little room between hub and the wheel . A small amount of oil or WD 40 or other rust remover solvent around the circle hole and hub none on the threads let stand . I used a hard wood 2x4 to pound on the inside rim and tire a base ball bat wood is a better idea and in looking to get one. It took some time but it came off . At first I thought I was doing some thing wrong and that there was a secret way to remove the manual is of no help only states how to remount not remove . I did the job with only the side lifted on the truck and have LS so no rotation of the wheel was possible . Jack stands and rotation would help . Don't know if lifting the truck is possible on the pumpkin is possible without damage I havent seen this done on a One ton . LOL Ron in Metro Louisville KY

 

[Futures1]

Instead of WD 40 ,

You may want to use a "quality" Rust Penetrator for a couple of days on that problem area.



WD 40 was invented as water displacement formula for use around marine ignition & electrical systems, etc. Thus the name

W (Water) D (Displacement) #40 by it's inventor.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Re: Instead of WD 40 ,

Originally posted by Futures1

You may want to use a "quality" Rust Penetrator for a couple of days on that problem area.



WD 40 was invented as water displacement formula for use around marine ignition & electrical systems, etc. Thus the name

W (Water) D (Displacement) #40 by it's inventor.

Thanks for the info . I use it to keep the plug in wire and other wire plugs clean and some times for removing parts but as you say Quality seem to work better and will go up hill on a over head bolt and loosen it . Next trip to Auto Zone ill get some . Again thanks always wondered what WD stood fore. Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville Ky

 

[vssman]

Try 'PB-Blaster'. It's made for rust penetration.

 

[TowPro]

Re: Instead of WD 40 ,

I spray WD-40 on my wire connections after I wash the engine. I noticed it eats away at the glue on the stickers on the connectors as well.



Sure would hate to be denied Warranty because a Void sticker came loose from WD-40, when I don't even own a performance box.

Originally posted by Futures1

You may want to use a "quality" Rust Penetrator for a couple of days on that problem area.



WD 40 was invented as water displacement formula for use around marine ignition & electrical systems, etc. Thus the name

W (Water) D (Displacement) #40 by it's inventor.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Re: Re: Instead of WD 40 ,

Originally posted by TowPro

I spray WD-40 on my wire connections after I wash the engine. I noticed it eats away at the glue on the stickers on the connectors as well.



Sure would hate to be denied Warranty because a Void sticker came loose from WD-40, when I don't even own a performance box.

A sticker that comes off is a sticker that was never there in the first place . Do you think that the person or persons that put stickers on the parts are infallible ,will you and any one look at all parts and verify that all stickers are in place at time of delivery . Scare the people with a sticker with a snicker ,and there getting slicker and slicker . Paper is water soluble so is the glue , how long is this sticker life to last . Ron in Metro Louisville KYOo.

 

[rfcom]

Stuck wheels

I had the same thing happen to me. I wanted to rotate the tires but couldn't get the back wheel off. The guy at the tire shop said they were tight due to the different coefficients of expansion of the steel hub and aluminum rim. He said it would be easier if the rim was warm. It was cold when I tried, so it's possible he could be right.



Jim

 

[TboneMan]

I had a problem with my wife's '96 Intrepid. I have a set of steel rims for her snow tire.



One spring I went to put on the summer tires and I couldn't get a rear wheel off.



I put the lugs back on, but left them loose. I then drove down the road and cranked hard on the steering wheel turning in a direction opposite to the stuck wheel.



I heard a THUMP and pulled over to the shoulder. I then tightened the lugs (safety reasons) and drove back home.



Jacked the car up, losened the lugs and the wheel came right off.



I now smear anit-sieze on the inside of the wheel where it touches the hub when I put them on each fall.

 

[metal tech]

I read about this before I got my 01. At the first rotation I put anti-seize on the hub and both sides of the rims. It doesn't look real clean but the rims come off very easy.



Al

 

[tazzen]

metal tech



im with you on that one. with in the first week when i got mt truck i took the rims off and goupped them up with anti-seize . they come off real eazy .





ed

 

[Chief USA]

Howes Lubricator Products sent me some of their Multi-Purpose Penetrating Oil. They make diesel fuel additive but I did not realize that they made this product. I have used it on some stuck and seized items and it works very well. It does not evaporate like WD-40 and leaves a very fine film of lubricant. Penetrates very well

 

[illflem]

One of the Chevys at work had the same problem, I had to drive 65 miles to get it off when the woman driving it had a flat. Just left the lugs loose and drove five feet, it popped right off. When the truck got home I found they were all rusted on. After PB Blaster and a 20 lb sledge I used a die grinder around the center of the wheel to enlarge the hole a couple of hundredths, no more problem.

 

[bmoeller]

This is assuming you have aluminum wheels, I posted this on another thread-



The Pepsi works GREAT! The truck I drive has inner and outer aluminum dual wheels. I spent almost an hour to get the first one off. l#@$%! I remembered that it works on freeing stuck pistons so I tried it on the rims. Let it sit on while I ate lunch. Took about 5 good whacks with the sledge and they stated to move.



I used an old Windex bottle and sqirted it in between the the two rims and where the studs come through the rims. It took a can and a half for what I needed. The acid in the pop eats that stuff off (makes you REALLY want to drink that stuff doesn't it , I do. ).

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I just resolved this problem on my 94 Suburban w/ American Racing wheels, which used to get driven into salt water frequently.



Of course, I soaked everything in PB Blaster and other sprays. I pushed, pulled and kicked. I put the lug nuts on loosely and drove around, starting and stopping abruptly. I drove over 4x4 lumber in my driveway. We don't have curbs in my neighborhood, so I couldn't try that. I put a tow strap around the back of the wheel and snatched the Sub 3 feet sideways with my Dodge!



I tried beating on a 2x8 against the wheel/tire from behind with a small sledge hammer. I split the 2x8. I went to a 6x6 and a big sledge, stopping when I imagined the wheel rim was getting tweaked.



Then I asked my friend the truck tire guy. He said to air up the tire very hard, and from the outside of the tire, hit the corner where the tread and sidewall join with a big sledge. He said this is foolproof. The vibrations & aftershocks this method sends thru the wheel/axle joint break the corrosion loose.



He was right! Took maybe a dozen or more whacks, but it's off!



HTH someone!



kevin

 

[fest3er]

Pondering the geometry:

• loosen the lugs a little
• spray penetrating oil around the hub
• jack up the other side as high as possible, which should put some outward pressure on the bottom of the tire(s) you want off; then whack the top of the tire you want off, or
• use a couple 2x4s against the left and right tires, lay a bottle jack sideways between them with another length of 2x4, then use the bottle jack to spread the tires.

Or you could visit your local VFD and see if the jaws on the Jaws-of-Life are long enough to get between the dually tires and spread them apart enough so that a maul on the outside of the tire will coax the wheels loose.

 

[Sticks]

Been there done that.

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