Stuck E-Brake Cables...

[JGrefenstette]

my e-brake cables are starting to stick. when i release the pedal the shoes arnt coming off the drums. the passenger side is the worst. the driver only sticks very rare. i can grab the cables and push them in and they will release. the passenger side one has a new cable too. and its the one sticking the worst? whats an easy fix for this.



also... when my rear alxe is raised, when the passenger side shoes where sticking, and the driver side wasnt, i could rotate the driverside wheel and the passenger side one wouldnt budge. is the limited slip supposed to do that? and... when both rear wheels are rotating, if i hold one steady the other will continue for maybe an inch? is this worn out gears?



and one more... whats too hot for rear axle to be? the bottom was not to hot to touch but if you kept your hand there for more than 15seconds it wasnt comfortable.



thanks yall.

 

[JZellers]

Hi Jimmy,



Just speaking from my experience with my '92 W250, the sticking is the levers inside the drums. The posts they pivot on are probably rusted and not moving freely. I just did a complete brake job on mine last summer, including new cables. All you'll need to do if your cables are ok is to take the levers off, clean them up so they pivot freely, and add some anti-sieze so they won't freeze up again.



For the anti-spin differential, what you describe is normal. With one wheel locked in place, you would have to turn against the posi clutches to spin the other independently, and you shouldn't be able to do that by hand.



As far as temperature, mine is like that too, depending on the outside temperature.



Hope this helps...



Joe

 

[JGrefenstette]

thats a great help! thanks.



you answered just about all my questions. i really apreciate that.



i have one question/concern though. if i have one rear wheel locked and the other free, the free wheel should NOT? be able to rotate indepentant from the locked/stuck wheel? because mine sure did. the passenger side drum was stuck but the driverside was not, and i could rotate the driver side wheel with my hands while the passenger side stayed stuck... .

are my clutches in the rear shot? i know i need spiders, the drive shaft has way too much play in it. im i in for a D70 rebuild?



thanks Joe!

 

[MMiller]

I'd say at 270,000 miles you need to be checking out the 70 rear, if nothing has been done to it. You are on borrowed time. I've been around my truck since new, and the limited slip still works, but not nearly as well as it did when it was new.



The parking brake cables are still available for around $20 each. I just put a set on my truck, totally rebuilt the rear brakes and now I have a parking brake for the first time in 10 years!!!! I also agree to completely disassemble the the parking brake arms, clean and lube.



When I adjust my rear brakes, the shoes drag on the drum while turning them in the air. The limted slip will make this more difficult.



Michael

 

[tugboatphil]

Jimmy, if you're "going in" and cleaning up the brake assembly, replace anything you can with a kit. NAPA has them. You won't be sorry.

Also, use your brake every time you park. Keeping the parts moving goes a long way to keeping them working. (Thanks, Scott!)

 

[JGrefenstette]

Scott. yea since mine is a manual, i use the brake always. but since it started sticking 2 days ago, ive been just leaving it off and keeping the truck in gear (i always leave it in gear anyhow) and just let the tranns hold the truck. untill i get the e-brake fixed up.

i have new cylinders, shoes, axle seals, bearings, and a passengerside cable. but yea i will clean up the arms real good.



Michael - what do you think should be done to the D70 at that many miles? should my wheels be able to turn by hand idependant of eachother? or are my clutches worn out?

thanks

 

[dpuckett]

If your LS clutches are worn out, it will tend to turn your axle into a spool, with no slip around corners. I'm there right now in my W250. Bearings were put in, but nothing was done to the clutches- shop owner gave me some BS reason about how complex it was. I'd bet a protrait of Ben Franklin the clutches were causing the growling around corners, NOT bearings.



As for what to do, read up on the D70 rebuild here in this fourm. CHeck the gear contact pattern and backlash, carrier preload, etc. If stuff isnt within spec, it's time to reshim things at the very least. Probably not a bad idea to do bearings, too. I'd recommend someone who has done a LOT of Dana70/80 axles, not just someone who has set up a lot of 1/2ton Chevies and says "yeah, I'll set it up for ya. " The bearings will be in WAYY too tight- look like 500K of wear in 3K, etc.



Daniel

 

[JGrefenstette]

gotcha. mine seems ok around corners. im just noticing a lot of play in the rear. for example. crusing in 5th (or really any gear) and let of abruptly and you feel a surge, then tap the accelerator again, and feel the slight delay then clunk when it engages the rear.



how much would a good shop charge for what youve described?

 

[dpuckett]

Sounds like spider gears are wearing- totally normal. I'd guess you're looking at $6-800 for spiders, clutches, bearings, and set up. Add $400 or so for a new R&P, though an honest shop will tell you if it is good or bad. (Good luck finding that, though). Make sure you get plenty of friction modifier in the diff, or you'll be doing it again 3000 mi later.



DP

 

[JGrefenstette]

if i do the spiders, would if be worth doing just them and seeing how it runs afterwards? i feel like i could do the spiders myself, with the help of a buddy. but im not sure of the clutches and r&p.

if i got a detroit locker, would that take the place of the clutches? what about r&p?