Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Geusterman,
Yes, I believe the rear door would hit the swing-out HappiJacs. Someone else posted that theirs did on a Bigfoot 2500 with the swing-out brackets. Thier solution was for the driver or front seat passenger to get out first and swing the jacks to the "out" position before opening the rear doors. You shouldn't need the swing out brackets with a SRW, however, so I don't think this should be a problem for you.
The clearance issue that I had with ALL the doors though, IS something you'll need to think about. With a 1/2" thick rubber mat in the bed, my camper wasn't high enough above the cab to prevent the top of the doors from hitting the camper moulded cabover supports. It was close, but I could only open the front doors and they hit and scraped along. I am now looking at putting either another rubber bed mat in (I don't like using wood - too slippery), or I'll use four 2'x4' rubber roofing mats 5/8" thick on top of my rubber mat.
I also think you'll want to space out your camper from the front of the bed as mine just touches the rear taillights. Don't want to damage those.
Now for some good news, the fuel door is located farther rearwards on the non-dually trucks. I don't think you'll have a problem here, but if you do, there was a posting recently on the Towing , Hauling and RV forum where a fellow had posted pics of a bar he bolted on to the factory tie-down attachment points to relocate the tie down farther forward to clear the fuel door and farther rearward to clear the dually fenders.
I will have mine done in the next week or so and will post pictures of everything.
Dave
Yes, I believe the rear door would hit the swing-out HappiJacs. Someone else posted that theirs did on a Bigfoot 2500 with the swing-out brackets. Thier solution was for the driver or front seat passenger to get out first and swing the jacks to the "out" position before opening the rear doors. You shouldn't need the swing out brackets with a SRW, however, so I don't think this should be a problem for you.
The clearance issue that I had with ALL the doors though, IS something you'll need to think about. With a 1/2" thick rubber mat in the bed, my camper wasn't high enough above the cab to prevent the top of the doors from hitting the camper moulded cabover supports. It was close, but I could only open the front doors and they hit and scraped along. I am now looking at putting either another rubber bed mat in (I don't like using wood - too slippery), or I'll use four 2'x4' rubber roofing mats 5/8" thick on top of my rubber mat.
I also think you'll want to space out your camper from the front of the bed as mine just touches the rear taillights. Don't want to damage those.
Now for some good news, the fuel door is located farther rearwards on the non-dually trucks. I don't think you'll have a problem here, but if you do, there was a posting recently on the Towing , Hauling and RV forum where a fellow had posted pics of a bar he bolted on to the factory tie-down attachment points to relocate the tie down farther forward to clear the fuel door and farther rearward to clear the dually fenders.
I will have mine done in the next week or so and will post pictures of everything.
Dave
. I see where the back doors can hit the Happijacs. I have a little window to put the fuel inlet in the cab guard. Making an auxiliary tank on passenger side instead of tool box under bed and the filler will catch both. Think I can make it all work. Thanks again for invite and just may see you one of these days. Like to tour the BF factory as well. Like to slowly convert my BF to an EarthRoamer type diesel camper as well. Blessings! geusterman
