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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Think I diagnosed my problem, but not sure...need help

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission dyno numbers??

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For about a month now, I've been getting a rattle, or jiggling thru my steering wheel over certain bumps, like something in the frontend is loose. I just did all 4 balljoints, pass. side tierod end, and unit bearings about 3,000miles ago so theyre ok. My steering shaft from the columb to the steering box didn't seem to have any play, and with 78,000miles on the truck, I can't imagine the control arm bushings are shot yet. I had my brother work the wheel back and forth and low and behold, my track bar had a bunch of play in it. I also had a slight bit of play in my steering box sector shaft, but you had to look really hard to see it... is that normal? I'd like to get a DSS and track bar conversion kit to upgrade to the 03 style bar. Wheres the cheapest place to get the stuff? SolidSteel. CA seems the cheapest so far. Do you guys think I've nailed the problem? This is getting sickening... I keep spending money on the thing, just to get it driving right (only had the truck since late Jan. ) and its leaving me with none to spend on the fun:) stuff.
 
AFoulk, one thing to check is make sure the steering shaft rod telescopes as designed because they can get rusty and sieze. This can cause a knocking sensation over bumps because the cab and frame move in relation to each other and this stress is put directly on the steering linkage if it doesn't slide in and out.
 
double checked the steering shaft today and that looks to be in descent shape yet. I've seen that there is an adjustable trackbar available for the conversion kits... . whats the advantage to these and do I need one? I'd like to go with a solid one for cost reasons, but my truck does have a leveling kit in the front end so I wasn't sure if I needed the adjustable one.
 
, but it sounds like your biggest problem is in the steering shaft.



I disagree. The column bushing fix is one step above cosmetic.



ANY play in the track bar needs to be fixed if you want the truck to drive straight and in control. Seems like most people around here are happy with the 3rd gen convert or Thuren's bar. I have Thuren's and couldn't be happier.
 
If you're on a budget do the Luke's Link fix. It wasn't hard and is very inexpensive. Put about 20,000 on my '96 since I did mine and so far it's still tight.
 
yeah, I know that would be cheaper, but I kinda like going the third gen. route, that way if a bushing goes bad, I can easily replace that. I guess it just gives me a better piece of mind.
 
I am so beyond ****** today! I brought my truck into the shop today after work to show my buddy how bad my track bar was, and after I got done working the wheel back and forth, he said something I wasn't to happy with... . "you aint gonna like this. " My drag link end at the steering box was bad. I thought, ok, no biggie. Well, turns out, my pass. side tie rod end is bad too. I just replaced that 3,000miles ago with a Napa part! So I thought, well, if thats bad, maybe I better check the ball joints too. Low and behold, all 4 of them were bad! I replaced them at the same time I did the tierod end. They're the greasable units, and I greased the heck outta them when I put them in. I could understand them being bad in maybe 30,000miles, but not 3k! Needless to say, Napa is gonna get an ear full Monday!
 
So did you get to NAPA? I replaced ball joints, rod ends and trac bar w/MOOG lifetime units - of course "lifetime" means the parts not the labor. So far I'm on my 3rd trac bar in 75k. Bottom line the stock 2nd gen bar design is a POS and replacing it with a POS is only going to get you PO'ed and of course an expert at replacing the trac bar. I found this thread by searching for "Adjustable Trackbar" as I'm going with an adjustable unit this time. I too have the 2" leveling kit and the drivers side wheel sticks out about 1 to 1 & 1/2" more than passenger side. Wow! Just realized this thread is over a year old . . . what'd you do?
 
Trac Bar

A bad trac bar will ruin everything in the front end.

The play in the track bar jack hamers all the other parts.



I replace the bushing's in my DT- Profab bar about every 20,000 miles.

I'm still on the original ball joints at 280,000 miles.

With a fair about of those miles traveled in Baja on and off road.



SFB
 
double checked the steering shaft today and that looks to be in descent shape yet. I've seen that there is an adjustable trackbar available for the conversion kits... . whats the advantage to these and do I need one? I'd like to go with a solid one for cost reasons, but my truck does have a leveling kit in the front end so I wasn't sure if I needed the adjustable one.



Only real advantage of the adjustable trackbars is they allow you to center the axle under the truck. When I replaced my trackbar, I had to pull the axle about 3/4" to the driver's side even without any suspension changes. When I put the suspension lift on, I put on an adjustable trackbar on so I didn't have to pull it further to the driver's side. Also, the adjustable trackbar seems a bit heavier then the non-adjustable ones.
 
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