Think I'm going to order a 2011 3500...

[BurlesonR]

I'm kind of on the fence here. I've been thinking about getting a new truck to replace my 06 CTD 3500 dually for awhile now. I knew if I started to research it out, I'd really want one. Well, just recently I started to have a few problems with my 06 and that pushed me over the edge to start looking into the 2010's and 2011's. I'm all set to go down to the dealer and put an order in, but my 06 just seems to nice to trade in. Guess I'm kind of "attached" to it. I've run the Edge programmer on it since day one and most of the problems I've had over the last 4 years can be traced back to that mod. I'd like to start fresh and run a new truck stock. I think the reliability will be much better, but will the power be ok? I tow heavy most of the time. I have a 5th wheel camper that weighs in at 18k and occasionally I pull my equipment trailer with my 9 ton excavator loaded up. That's the heaviest at around 23k, but it's only for short distances and only 5 or 6 times a year...



I've always been a manual trans kind of guy, but with Dodge detuning the manual trans trucks, I'll be ordering an auto. I hear mainly good things about the auto, but is it going to be good with pulling the kind of weight I do?



My main reason to trade would be for towing comfort and to start over with a more capable truck in stock form. I'd like to get rid of the more "truck like" qualities of my moded 06, but at the same time, I think I would miss them some.



Guess, I'm just looking for a little push to jump to the 4th gen truck and maybe a little reassurance that it is a great heavy tow vehicle.

 

[67guzzler]

There is no comparison between the ride, ergonomics, fit and finish of the prior gens to the 4th. It's an amazing truck.

If the only reason you'd get the automatic is because of paper numbers and you'd rather have a stick, get it. The only reason they went lighter on the rating is to go easy on the clutch.

The power delivery is so different between the manual and the automatic that it's really apples and oranges anyway. Put another way, had they both been rated 350/650, they'd be so different to drive anyway that you wouldn't know what the power levels were anyway as there is no similarities driving the automatic and the manual. They're just totally different beasts.

Don't let the numbers by themselves deter you. You have to test drive a manual and if it's what you want, get it.

 

[BurlesonR]

Yeah, the clutch is another problem with going manual. At about 14k miles I had to put an South Bend Con OFE in my 06. The clutch has great holding power, but makes backing and starting with a load very jerky and rough. Plus the extra noise and harshness the solid flywheel adds really takes away from the total comfort of the truck.



The wife and I want a smoother towing experience on long trips, but without lack of CGVWR... .



I need to take a test ride, but the dealers around me don't have anything comparable to drive. 2011 are on there way though, so the salesman tells me...



By the way Jay, love the color of your truck! The mineral in tow tone is what I was thinking too. Think you just sealed it for me.

 

[Tryingit]

I don't tow as heavy as you. But I've owned both a 2004. 5 (with a smarty Jr and other minor mods) and now a 2010. I towed and 9-10K 5th wheel with both now. The 2010 is doing a much better job towing my 5th wheel stock than my 04. 5 did lightly modified. It really felt like there was nothing behind my truck for the 400 mile drive. I'm still learning how to use the manual upshift and downshift on the auto. But I attribute the better towing of the 2010 to the turbo, transmission and the exhaust brake. But the sticker price is shocking... .

 

[BurlesonR]

Sounds like I won't regret making the trade and the auto is probably the "wave of the future" and the way to go...



Tryingit, Hows that back up camera work? Do you get a good view of your drop hitch for trailer hook up?

 

[BurlesonR]

Can someone tell me what info is available to be displayed on the screen in the instrument cluster? Hoping i won't need to add a gauge cluster to monitor trans temp, boost and egt's,

 

[67guzzler]

No boost or egt's. Coolant, oil pres, trans temp and something else.

Re: Auto vs. Stick -- I went from the G56 in my 2005 to the this 2010 with the 68rfe auto and have no regrets.

Thanks re: Mineral Gray Two Tone... Looks stunning in person. U getcha one!

 

[BurlesonR]

You're welcome. Again, nice truck. I keep going back and looking at your pics.



So what's the consciences on not monitoring EGT's on the stock truck, towing heavy? Should I trust the truck to look out for itself trough the computer and just watch trans temps? Or are gauges needed? Again, I'm trying to keep this truck as stock and clean inside as possible...

 

[Tryingit]

I haven't use the camera for that. But it would work well.

The info cluster has a setting for vehicle info. It has the coolant temp, oil pressure, trans temp and the trailer brake info (no turbo). You can keep any of these on. I used the trans display while towing and it never went above 168 degrees.

 

[Alan Reagan]

Sounds like I won't regret making the trade and the auto is probably the "wave of the future" and the way to go...



Tryingit, Hows that back up camera work? Do you get a good view of your drop hitch for trailer hook up?

I have tried it twice and so far so good. It really lines you straight up but it takes a little practice to get the ball right under the hitch. But I'm getting there. I get a good view of both, but it is a convex (fisheye) camera and depending on the lighting, it can be difficult. But I do like it. Over time, I'm sure I will be a master of hooking up using the camera.

 

[craiggo]

I have tried it twice and so far so good. It really lines you straight up but it takes a little practice to get the ball right under the hitch. But I'm getting there. I get a good view of both, but it is a convex (fisheye) camera and depending on the lighting, it can be difficult. But I do like it. Over time, I'm sure I will be a master of hooking up using the camera.

I had the same problem hooking up my travel trailer but here is what I did and it really helps. I painted the base of the ball (where the ball and hitch meet) white. Then I painted the bottom lip of my hitch (on the trailer) white and that really helped. In my case there was a lip that rolls out on the bottom of the hitch and it make for a good target. I can post pics if anybody wants them?

 

[Alan Reagan]

Sounds like a good idea to paint them. I've been thinking about using a magnet to hold a rod as a stop guide.

 

[kefaperformance]

This is all interesting because I am thinking about getting a new one soon. i think i would add Boost and EGT Just to be safe. I always ran stock until i got my 06 and having the gages really changed the way I drive and I am not sure if I trust the computer to monitor it.

 

[jaird]

What is the max. GCWR for the 2011 3500 DRW With 4. 10 and 6 spd auto?

 

[RustyJC]

Per the Dodge engineer in TDR Issue 68, page 43:

For 2010 (and 2011, I'd assume) the GCWR for 2WD and 4WD models are now equal.



The following specifications are for 3500 DRW models - For the G56 six-speed manual, the standard axle ratio is 3. 42 with a 19,000 GCWR and the 3. 73 is optional at 21,000. In the case of the 68RFE automatic the standard gear is the 3. 73 at 21,000 GCWR with the 4. 10 optional and rated at 24,500 GCWR.

Rusty

 

[HBarlow]

Addressing a question about gauges posted earlier, gauges have never been necessary on any unmolested Cummins-powered Dodge but most of us consider them useful and helpful for the information they provide.

An excellent example is the many owners of new ISB6. 7 trucks who come to the TDR website soon after driving their new trucks a few days and ask how to determine if their truck is in the regeneration mode. It is very difficult to know unless the owner has installed gauges.

Is this critically needed information? No, it is not. The engineers at Cummins and Dodge have designed emissions equipment that will perform fine and meet federal standards without driver input.

But is it helpful to know? I think it is very important. With the gauges I know if my truck is performing a regeneration and can either decide to allow a longer cool down period or continue driving to avoid interrupting the regen cycle. Information is good.