tightening the timing case bolts

[btoscano]

From what I understand, there are 6 bolts that hold the timing gear case to the block. One is near the KDP, two behind the reliefs in the cam gear, one above the oil pump gear, and two on the bottom at the oil pan.



I have removed and loctited all but the 2 behind the cam gear. I can losen the upper one behind the cam gear, but I think it will hit the cam gear before it comes out all the way, or come out at an angle. I just torqued it down to 24 Nm w/out loctite. Anybody find a way to do better? The other one behind the cam gear is more difficult. I think a 10 mm or 5/16 crowfoot or an offset wrench would be the only ways to get it snug??? Do store bought offset wrenches work, or does it need to be homemade with the torch?



Thanks!



Brian

 

[Greenleaf]

I snug them with a homemade (bend) 10mm open end.



It will not come out (unless you remove the cam gear)



-S

 

[btoscano]

GL,



I have mech friends who make tools all the time since they don't want to pay for a specific tool or can't/won't wait for the tool truck to come by when they have a torch handy.



My workspace is not as well equipped. Do you know if a store bought offset will work, or does it "have" to be homemade?



Thanks,

Brian

 

[Greenleaf]

It's simply a combination 10mm with the open end of the wrench bent to a 30° to 40° angle. I used a torch to heat it and held it in a vice and bent the thing. It's about 15/16 from the end of wrech to the center of the bend. Works perfectly for the bolt head behind the cam gear.



You know anyone that could bend a wrech for you? Send me one and I'll make it for you.

 

[btoscano]

GL,



I might take you up on your offer. I'll try to get something locally for the job first.



Thanks,

Brian

 

[btoscano]

I had one of my mech buddies get out the oxy-actelyne torch and bend a Snap On 10 mm wrench. Its not perfect, but it got the job done. My concern is that I should slip a pipe over the end of the wrench to get a bit more leverage.



I would caution everyone that my bolts were in need of some tightening.



I also used Harold's 1st gen KDP tab and it fits very nicely. Its probably twice as thick as the factory tab. It took 2 days to get the tab from Idaho to Tennessee - can't be that! Tonight I'm going to put the timing cover & front seal in place and get this job complete!



Brian

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

You can back the bolt out as far as possible then use some electronic parts cleaner on it followed by loktite - then tighten it up and your good to go. This worked great for me.



Bob

 

[btoscano]

How did you get the loctite on the bolts behind the cam gears?



Brian

 

[btoscano]

This morning I got the seal/front cover installed. When I get home from work I'll torque the bolts, install the crank, fan, etc. and wrap the job up.



There is one long cover bolt with a hard rubber/plastic piece around the top, what is this for? I think it goes on the bottom of the cover, the first long bolt to the right of the seal, correct?



Brian

 

[DSteimle]

brian, man that hurt to read, putting heat and bending a snap on- taiwanese yes, craftsman ok, s-k no, but snap on ouch. . . really this is a very near project for both of mine so i appreciate the post to let me know what i'm in for.



daryl

 

[DSteimle]

i know it's on here already but does someone have the email for the guy who sells the tab kits for first gens? i need 2. thanks



daryl

 

[btoscano]

-- email address removed --



Ask for the 1st gen tab specifically.



It was $5 for two (2) tabs shipped to my door.



-brian

 

[JLEONARD]

but snap on ouch

They are guaranteed aren't they? Not Brian's problem it bent a little... . :-laf :-laf