Tir Chain Disclosure

[MJWenrich]

I searched the forum but could not find a specific question/answer to this. Just bought the 2014 SRW and had to sign a tire chain disclosure that states it cannot be operated with tire chains but may accommodate some other type of tire traction device. Of course no mention of what that device might be. When we drive into Yosemite in the winter we must show them tire chains even if not required at the moment. So what kind of device can we use and why can we not use chains? It certainly seems there is enough clearance. And if the answer is cables....what's the difference?

Mike

 

[JLandry]

Mike,

Traction cables usually require MUCH less clearance than traditional tire chains.

The Ram owner's manual manual states that your truck requires a minimum "U" class traction device, and even then they're only to be used on the rear axle.

A good choice for your truck would be SCC Super Z Light Truck tire cables. These meet "S" class clearance requirements which is even more restrictive than the "U" class clearance specified in the Ram owner's manual.

I like these cables because they don't require the truck to be moved to install. They have a split that goes around the tire's contact patch. They also don't require retightening once you're underway.

I've used them on my old truck (2001) and a lighter version (the Super Z6) on our travel trailer. I bought a couple of sets for my new truck.

Best regards,

John L.

 

[CBari]

I don't remember what they are called but there was a post about a fabric type product that goes on the wheels. I read about it and saw where it was popular in Europe. I didn't think much about it till I saw a semi with them on in the ICE the first week of March down around the Dallas area. Just google Autosock.

 

[MJWenrich]

So John. When you say a couple sets, you mean for front and rear or just the rear? Trying to determine if there is a reason to only put the cables on two wheels. Like ABS or Limited slip axle. Thanks to you both. I will look up the Autosock as well.

Mike

 

[JLandry]

So John. When you say a couple sets, you mean for front and rear or just the rear?

Mike,

The Ram owner's manual specifically states a dually should chain up both the front and rear axles, therefore I carry two sets of cables for the truck. I also carry one set of cables for our travel trailer (i.e.: "drag chains").

According to the owner's manual, you only need one set for the rear axle of your truck.

John L.

 

[MJWenrich]

Copy that. This may seem a bit redundant but I have an enclosed car trailer with brakes on both axles. Would cables only go on the rear as well or on both axles since the brakes would be acting together and are not ABS? I don't plan to tow in the snow/ice but one never knows about weather surprises. Appreciate your opinion on this since you live where you get more real weather.

 

[JLandry]

...I have an enclosed car trailer with brakes on both axles. Would cables only go on the rear as well or on both axles.

My travel trailer has electric brakes on both axles as well, but I only put cables on one axle. It seemed to work fine that way. When a trailer has brakes on both axles, I don't think it really matters which axle you chain up. I put them on the rear axle for no particular reason. With the close spacing between the tires on my travel trailer, I don't think I could chain up both axles even if I wanted to. By chaining up at least one axle, I think the idea is to have some braking ability on the trailer to keep it behind the tow vehicle when slowing or stopping. Without the chains, all of the trailer tires could easily lock-up, the trailer would start to slide, and you'd possibly have a jack-knife accident.

I've only had to chain up my truck and travel trailer once. It was a few years ago when crossing the Siskiyou summit on I5 in northern California with about 3-4 inches of snow on the ground. The highway patrol was making all vehicles towing chain up both the tow vehicle AND the trailer. Everything went well. The worst part was actually getting out in the miserable blowing wet snow to chain up. I just went slow (like 30 mph) and took the cables back off as soon as I was back below the snow line.

A hint on making the installation of those Z-chains a lot easier when in snow or slush...

Carry a long hook-like tool so you can drag the chains into position around the tires under your truck as opposed to crawling on your hands and knees. I bought an inexpensive "sprinkler valve key" from Home Depot, and using my bench vise, I bent the forked end into a 90 degree hook.

Be sure and practice installing the Z-cables in your driveway so you can not only understand how they work and hone your install technique, but also to verify they fit correctly. Figuring out how to install them, or finding out you have the wrong size on the side of the road during a blizzard sure isn't the right time.

Best regards,

John L.

 

[Powder Extreme]

Adding to what he said about the tool for dragging chains around, most truck stops sell an aluminum rod with a handle on one end and a hook on the other, it's about 2 feet long. The purpose is to reach under a trailer and release the fifth wheel jaws. Handy as heck for multiple things!

 

[HSpiering]

When a trailer has brakes on both axles Oregon requires chains on rear axle.

 

[MJWenrich]

Thanks all. This all makes sense but that is not always the rule in my experience. Better to ask the question than be sorry along some snowy/icy cold interstate. I will look for the different sizes of cables at the local NAPA, which usually stands for No Auto Parts Available, and ask how long I have to wait for them to order the cables. Or order on line when I determine the sizes.

Mike