Here I am

Tone Ring came through pan!

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Archived 2006 Died on road, won't start

'01 Fuel Tank Strap broke

Just to get you something to start with,



A brand new block from Cummins is about $2,000. 00 based on the ESN you provided me before.



Part number changes several times, called my distributor to verify the latest one.



It is 3935943.



Factory has 32 on hand.



I'm not saying this is what you should do, but will give you an idea what some other options will be worth.



Sorry to hear that it is turning into a C. F... ...



Mike. :)
 
Mike, Is that a long block, or just the casting, I have no idea of the cost. Never thought about it until today. Thanks for the quick response.



Bill.
 
That would be for the block only.

If you are leery of the 53 block and plan on keeping this for a while I figured it might be a valid option.

Your crank is good, etc.

6 new pistons and you have a brand new powerplant, not rebuilt... .....

Just one of many opinions you will receive... . :D



Mike.
 
What the heck is that number 26!?! Those blocks don't have sleeves. I thought that was just the marine blocks.

New block, short block, long block or complete drop in. Lots of options. I don't think the reman completes are all that much considering you are getting a new VP, turbo... the whole works.

Pictures man. Pictures!
 
What the heck is that number 26!?! Those blocks don't have sleeves. I thought that was just the marine blocks.



Number 26 is the salvage sleeve that Cummins offers, I think they thought it was a good place to illustrate that it was available if needed.



It is not used in or part of a new block.





Mike. :)
 
I just got a hot-rod VP this summer from II,along with new inj. lines and tubes from Sheid, then a NV 4500 from Vinnie at Bluementhal.



I'm not sure witch may to turn right now. I found a reman for $5,3 plus shipping both ways with core. Or a new block from cummins for $2,000, that means much more work and, crank still needs to be sent out.



Not sure what to do right now, Gonna have to think more on it.



Thanks, Bill.
 
Were I in your shoes, I'd go with a reman, swap your injectors and VP (maybe even look into buying a VP core from someone or a shop and selling the new one off the reman for the $1100 easy) and drop it back in the truck. Warranty, new turbo, new exhaust manifold... Lot of benefits to the drop in.
 
There is no way I would put money into a 53 block. Mine cracked long ago towing a 5ver with a fueling box.



Dave
 
I've ruled out putting that kind of money into this 53 block.



A friend found me a reman non 53 long block, no turbo, VP, exhaust man. somewhere in Minnesota for $5500. It has a 2 year warranty which I consider their confident of their work. But, like Bob said, with my mods that probably won't apply to me.



Other than NO 53, is there a (best) block I should be looking for? And can anyone suggest other places to be shopping?



Truck is at a friends shop, Monday I will be putting the core back together and will get some pictures of the tragic mess.



Later, Bill.
 
I'd feel confident with a Jasper or Cummins reman to hold up to getting tweaked performance wise due to the warranty being offered. They stand behind their work. Always that chance that something might go wrong, but that never stopped us from voiding our warranties on our trucks to begin with.
 
I do not have the same confidence in Jasper as I once did. They have become another also ran imho. Their trannys are no better than any other local corner trans shop anymore. I have no personal experience with thier CTD reman engine program. I have seen too many non Cummins engine parts fail at LACR (rip)
 
After a weekend of pondering, I think I'm going with a new block from Cummins.



With my set-up I will have no warranty with a reman anyway and the cylinders will be thinner.



I'm wondering if my harmonic damper rattled those small screws loose that hold the tone ring to the crank. It has rubber protruding 1/4" but none missing and the marks are still aligned. Got a Fluidampr ordered.



I think this mess could have been prevented, had I checked tone ring a month ago when replacing the CPS.



Will keep you posted,



Bill.
 
Things just keep getting worse. Had the head magnafluxed, sure enough, cracked between two valves. Not into coolant but cracked none the less.



I'm almost afraid to get results back on crank and rods.



Anyone have any ideas what to do for a head?



Thanks, Bill.
 
New head, or detune you engine back to stock and hope for the best.

I'd hit some bone yards or check with Cummins for some used heads out of their bone yard.

Cummns Rocky Mountain in Brighton CO had a huge pile o' cores at one time. A local TDR member was able to get a block from them to replace his 53 block when he did a rebuild. IIRC they did a straight swap.

Try to get a hold of Redline3200 (I think that's the correct spelling) here on the forum. He may be able to help.
 
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Found a rebuilt head for $900. shipped. The crank and rods are good. but, shop say's the hard surfacing on the cam shows wear. this is never ending.



I can get a new Cummins cam for $500. If I have to put a new cam in, why not spice it up a little. Any suggestions, without cutting pistons and heavy valve springs?



Have 150 hp injectors coming



WILL get some pic's up
 
I put a 02 high output cummins in my truck- computer and wiring harness. This does away with the tone ring on the crank. 2000- 2002 run on cam sensor. also this lets you run a ho if you so wish. Mine spit fore to aft on a 53 block.

Just thought this might open some doors and options for you.

Good luck

Miles
 
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