Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Too Cold for No block heater... IDLE ALL NIGHT?

[MJMcCrady]

I didn't remember to fix the block heater in my 2002 Dodge Cummins until it got cold. I can not seem to get a good bite on the collar that holds the plug on to the heater fitting. Not sure why it's so tight. I'm going to have to take something off to get a better angle. So I'm not able to get it off to see if it's just a bad cord. ANYWAY, it's suppose to be below zero in the morning. NOW, here is the question... WILL I HURT ANYTHING BY LETTING HER RUN ALL NIGHT??? I've let her idle before for a couple hours at a time but never ALL night. It will be around 6 or more hours of idling. She has fresh Rotella in it and a FASS 150/150, open exhaust, BHAF, everything else is factory with 245,000 miles.

 

[The patriot]

I wouldnt let it run.
Just cycle the grid 2x's and it should start up.

 

[MChrist]

I wouldn't even worry about it. Start her up 15 minutes before you're ready to take off. You could also buy a Katz magnetic heater and slap it up onto the oil pan.

 

[DavidC]

I started mine plenty of times at -10 -20 in Vermont by cycling the grid heaters 2 times. That was with 15-40 oil. Sure smoked up the parking lot but it started every time.

Dave

 

[SAndreasen]

We get 30 and 40 below here and I've started mine with no block heater takes 3 or 4 key on key off and shell go if the grids are working my gen one never had a block heater the hole nine years I had it .

 

[Woodenhead]

Decent batteries and a working grid heater is all you need in a pinch. If you're worried about your batteries and have a charger put it on the batteries overnight.

 

[Walleye mike]

ive started mine @ -26 no where to plug it in. Fires instantly, let pressures build run a little, then idle up to 1200 with the scraper from pedal to seat for 10 min, good to go!

 

[MJMcCrady]

THANKS EVERYONE... I should have added that after just sitting for several days I ran her batteries down a couple of weeks ago when it got down to single digits. Never needed to put the charger on her... just left her alone between tries. I don't think the batteries are weak because she has a pair of Big Optima Red Tops that are only a couple years old. May have a battery cable issue however. Might also explain my torque converter jumping in and out. ANYWAY, I think it might have been a gelling issue the last time, because the smoke was blue when I finally got her running. I do need to get a magnetic block heater... they sound very handy as a backup.

I am going to go out in a couple of hours and run the grid heater through two cycles and then see if she start without any issues and go from there. it's 7 degrees now and is forecast to go down below zero for the morning. If she struggles to start tonight, I may put the charger on the batteries or maybe just let her run, I really have not decided. I was just trying not to burn up a starter.

SO, if I get that we are all on the same page, that running her all night probably is not necessary, BUT it really won't do any damage to let her run at idle for several hour either. RIGHT?

Oh, and YES... when it warms up fix the block heater. THANKS, TDR TEAM.

 

[MJMcCrady]

ive started mine @ -26 no where to plug it in. Fires instantly, let pressures build run a little, then idle up to 1200 with the scraper from pedal to seat for 10 min, good to go!

WOW, -26... that's cold.

 

[mwilson]

An alternative is to get up once in the night and start it, let it run for 10 minutes or so, shut it off and go back to bed.
I have done that before in a pinch.

Mike.

 

[MJMcCrady]

Yes... That works too.

 

[MJMcCrady]

Well I just fired it up after two grid cycles... she only cranked twice before firing but they were a tough couple of cranks. The second grid cycle really sucked the voltage down and may not be necessary in the morning. I think the cold batteries can be a problem too. I'll go out after letting her run for a half hour or more and make sure she is fully charged and warmed up for the night. THANKS.

 

[Woodenhead]

If my old 12V could start after sitting at -30C with 370 marine injectors and 15W40 not plugged in, I'd be shocked if you had an issue. I think you're worrying too much, go to bed and get some sleep .

 

[MJMcCrady]

-3 this morning... two grid heater cycles... fired right up. She started just fine. The time before, when I had trouble, my fuel must have really been gelled up.
and
Has anyone else had issues with removing the cord retaining bolt from the block heater? I think maybe it was cross threaded when it was put on. It's a round one and I just can't seem to get a good grip on it to break it loose.

 

[JR]

What temp was it when your fuel gelled last time? If below zero weather is unseasonably cold you may have issues again. There is a big round nut that threads the cord onto the element, if you cant turn it by hand try to get a pair of channel locks on it and turn it counter clock wise. I've seen the cord and element on ebay for around 60 bucks, or you can buy them individually if only one or the other is bad. I've had the magnet heaters on oil pans before and they are better than nothing but fixing your coolant heater will be a better alternative.

 

[BIGNASTY]

.......... ESPAR Heaters never had a problem starting with them on board

http://www.espar.com/products/fuel-operated-heaters/product-selection/coolant-heaters.html

 

[mwilson]

What temp was it when your fuel gelled last time? If below zero weather is unseasonably cold you may have issues again. There is a big round nut that threads the cord onto the element, if you cant turn it by hand try to get a pair of channel locks on it and turn it counter clock wise. I've seen the cord and element on ebay for around 60 bucks, or you can buy them individually if only one or the other is bad. I've had the magnet heaters on oil pans before and they are better than nothing but fixing your coolant heater will be a better alternative.

Be prepared and have a new block heater on hand before you try and remove that nut. Ask me how I know......

My last attempt in attempting to change just a cord resulted in twisting the block heater head just enough so I no longer trusted it. If that ring has galled to the block heater threads it is game over.
You might try several doses of PB Blaster over the new few days before trying it again.

If you do trash the old block heater the easiest way that I have found to get it out is get a drill bit about two feet long and drill the head off of the allen screw in the center of the unit. Then you can take an alignment punch and push it through. The fork behind will not fall far enough to be an issue and you can easily retrieve it after removing the heater itself.

Just a heads up..

Mike.

 

[VolsFan]

I quit plugging mine in years ago after seeing a sharp spike in my electric bill from religiously plugging the truck in almost every night during the winter months. Granted, it was easy to fire up and didn't have to let it idle long, but I figure it's still cheaper to idle longer than pay electric. Plus these are cummins we are dealing with not cold natured powerstrokes!

 

[AH64ID]

I would use caution with short runs, the grids will take a lot out of the batteries and it will take more than a few minutes to recharge the batteries at idle.

Cummins says 3-5 minutes idle, no more than 10 on a cold motor. Too much idling on a cold motor will do damage to the cylinder walls.

If the electric bill is an issue then I suggest a 15a indoor/outdoor timer set for 90-120 minutes before your departure. This will get you 90% of the heat of an overnight plugin, without the cost. It's also far better for the motor than idling to warm up.

 

[MChrist]

I have the ATP oil pan cover (insulated and sound deadening), so I had a stick-on silicone heating pad attached to the bottom of my oil pan and wired into the block heater. One plug, two heaters, (maybe 50-100 watt oil pan heater) and my truck will be at 100 degrees within 3 hours no matter the temp or wind.