Trans cooler lines

[sheamc]

While under the vehicle working on something unrelated my mechanic found a trans fluid leak from one of the hard lines going to the transmission. Got there and he showed me where it was leaking. Where can I find a set of those, or is it something I should go back OEM if possible? I want to replace both lines since I'm approaching 300k. Any help pointing in the right direction would be appreciated. It's a 2500 with an upgraded 47re.

Shea

 

[Timd32]

I got mine from Rock Auto, they are pretty long so they do bend them in half to fit in the box which is problematic at times so one was pretty un-useable. They were poorly packaged.

That's when maybe a local NAPA might have been better since if it was bad looking when they got it might be easier to get another.

Rock Auto makes it easy to return things. It's more of a time thing.

Another option is to replace with rubber lines, front to back.

If you do the front cooler hoses to hard lines; they can be bought new as well, I did cut off the quick connector and use a double smooth hose clamp on the hoses in place of the quick connect as they would not plug together nicely. Just pushed it over the flare.

Good luck with your fix.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Seems my son bought OE for my old 98 12V

 

[Joe Mc]

I'd stick with the OEM style hard lines, the original ones lasted, right. Just make sure when changing to double wrench brass fittings to line nut at trans so the brass fittings to trans don't break in the case. I had one break and had to drill out and re-tap the hole. The hardest part was getting the correct new brass fitting, had to get from dealer, it cost like $40 and didn't come with the o-ring, got lucky and found an A/C o-ring that fit. Not a fun job at all. Oh, suggestion, anywhere that the new lines touch each other or metal, slice some rubber hose and tie wrap to the line to prevent future damage.

 

[JMcCoy]

Oh, suggestion, anywhere that the new lines touch each other or metal, slice some rubber hose and tie wrap to the line to prevent future damage.

That's exactly what I did. Lasted over 12 years. I'll probably do the soft like next time though. Since my throttle body circulates in park, I'll be eliminating the check ball as well.

 

[mwilson]

OEM for sure. I just did a generic non VIN search and the lines come up at $110.00 and $95.00 list price. These would be #2 and #3.

Provide your VIN and I'll give you the part numbers....PM the VIN if you prefer...


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