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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo swap 24V to 12V

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) four wheel drive question

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) KDP help needed

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The stock turbo on my 97 12V quit on me. Does anyone know if I can take the turbo off of my 2000 24V and install it on my 12V? The only difference that I could see is the air line going to the wastegate actuator. On the 24V it is looped around to the compressor and on the 12V it has a line crossing over the top of the engine to the intake manifold/injection pump area. I think the 12V turbo was labeled HX/35W and the 24V turbo is a HT Turbo HX35/40.



My 2000 24V has a knock in the engine and I haven't been using it so I thought I would steal the turbo for now until I get it repaired.



Anyhow, any help would be great.
 
I have a #10 plate in the pump and I changed out the springs as well so I am pushing more fuel. I still have the stock injectors though. I just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be any issues. What do I do with that air line coming over the engine that used to connect to the old actuator? Plug it?
 
Thanks odieub for the PM. I just put the turbo on the 12V and took it for a test run and it seems to be working well. You are right, bob4x4, it does seem to have a little more lag but once it hits about 60mph it seems like it takes off with a tremendous amount of power, much more than before. The jump from 60 to 100mph is very quick.



I was looking at some stage 2 injectors but I would like to improve the lower end. Does anyone think that will benefit the take off?
 
The turbo you have is good between about the 250-350 hp range. AFC adjustments will make all the diff in the drivabilty department. The injectors will put a smile on your face and put you at the top of the turbos range.
 
I wasn't aware of the AFC adjustment but I searched the site and found plenty of info. I got that adjusted and it did make a very noticable improvement. I adjusted it a couple of times before I ended up loosening it to the point of where there was no more pressure on the spring. That seemed to give me the best performance.



Any tips on what to do with the old air line hanging there? I plugged it for now but I don't know if that is the recomended solution.
 
plugging it with a bolt and a hose clamp is a fine solution. do it right at the end of the soft rubber hose that comes off of the afc.
 
Ok, it's been a couple of weeks now and everything has been great until the truck started pouring gray/white smoke out of the exhaust pipe like a train yesterday and there is a ticking type of sound under the hood.
 
Ok, update time:



I removed the air filter and hose and oil is dripping out of the intake on the turbo and the fins are shredded. Turbo is totalled. Pulled the down pipe off, that is coated with oil on the inside. Pulled the turbo off, oil dripping out of the exhaust manifold and oil is in the hose going to the intercooler. Then I pulled the other hose from the intercooler to the intake mainfold off near the top of the engine and that has oil in it and the glow plug is soaked. So then I pulled the radiator out to get to the intercooler. Took the boots off the bottom of the intercooler and about 2 quarts of oil poured out. Guess that accounted for the excessive smoke. :{
 
Before I clean this mess up and put everything back together I guess I need to find out why I lost 2 turbos in the last few hundred miles. The first thing that comes to mind is lubrication. With all of the oil in the intercooler and everywhere else the turbo is getting oil. Maybe a clogged drain instead? Or just not enough oil getting to the turbo? Should I try to get a pressure reading off of the oil line?
 
Is there any obstruction in the turbo oil drain line that goes to the oil pan rail?.

If there is it will do exactly as you have described and send oil everywhere.



HOWEVER... .

You said the fins are shredded so that tells me that you had a bearing or shaft failure for one reason or another. What boost are you running these turbos too because a HX35 style is only good for 40psi safely and anything above that could lead to overspeed failures?. Then throw in high boost pressure and barking the charger quickly when you suddenly lift off the throttle and it too could snap a main shaft of the charger... ... . Andy
 
I just removed the drain tube and the rubber hose that connects it to the pan and it is wide open. I couldn't really see down the short tube that is on the pan so I took a length of wire and stuck it in there and I did not feel any resistance so I don't think this is the problem.



I'm thinking about taking the turbo apart to look for any additional clues. May I just have a 2nd bad turbo but it just really seems strange to bust 2 of them in a couple of weeks. I would hate to do all of this again next month.
 
Whoa that sucks! I am not a believer in coincidental failures such as yours... . Odds are not in favor of that. Let us know what you find.



(Sorry for the limited help. I have the flu and am confined to the couch. )
 
Pulled the turbo apart today and it looks like a lot of metal is gone, and it isn't sitting in the housing so it's either in the intercooler relaxing in the oil or it was inhaled by the engine. :mad:
 
The shaft isn't broken so that wasn't it. As far as bearings go, I don't see anything resembling any sign of bearings left. The shaft was just flopping around in there and no sign of any significant metal fragments. I guess a lot of it must have gone down the drain tube so maybe I have a nice deposit in the oil pan too. So the question remains... . What caused these bearings to disappear in 2 weeks?
 
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