Valve adjustment question

[Doc Holiday]

Is it possible poor fuel mileage could be attributed to improper valve adjustment. I was getting 13.3, I had a family friend adjust the rollout of the tires in the computer (his idea, he's been a Chrysler tech/mechanic for 40 years). That little adjustment last netted me 14.9 mpg. I feel there is more to be had. I have a Raptor pump plumbed straight to the injector pump, I say this to ensure that we are on the same page regarding fuel being delivered to the pump/injectors. I am personally leaning towards it needing new injectors and a injection pump, but I have no information on the injectors, pump or last valve adjustment.

Other info that may be useful, the trans shifts fine with no issues, runs between 150-180 degrees. Has cold air intake and an aftermarket airhorn. Truck is a 2003 quad cab 2500 single wheel truck leveled not lifted. It does have a electric clutch delete. As far as I know everything else engine related is stock.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Miles on the truck?

 

[Doc Holiday]

264700'ish

 

[Darkbloodmon]

If you have no record of the injectors being done, it'd be due. In most cases power loss or mpg loss issues trickle down to the fuel system, i.e. injectors, fuel rail, lift pump or cp3 (rare cases).

You can open up the valve cover and run the mfg. codes off the injector solenoids to ID the build date on them to get an idea of a time frame, but if you've got 264K on OEM or unknown injectors; new ones won't hurt and you can only go up from there as far as engine running conditions improving.

This is of course excluding all the small easy stuff first. Air intake system (filter, turbo, cooler, boots, etc.), Fuel Delivery (lift pump, filters, rail relief valve, injection pump), and valve adjustment.

Do you have any issues or observations from a cold start? Or black smoke while at temp? Crank time?

 

[AH64ID]

The clutch fan delete could be costing fuel, as could the cold air intake.

What size tires?

The injection pump is probably fine, but the injectors could be worn.

Cali, SO, or HO?

 

[Doc Holiday]

The clutch fan delete could be costing fuel. I didn't delete the clutch I deleted the electronic clutch.

as could the cold air intake. How so?

What size tires? 33X12.50

Cali, SO, or HO? HO I believe

 

[Doc Holiday]

If you have no record of the injectors being done, it'd be due. In most cases power loss or mpg loss issues trickle down to the fuel system, i.e. injectors, fuel rail, lift pump or cp3 (rare cases).

You can open up the valve cover and run the mfg. codes off the injector solenoids to ID the build date on them to get an idea of a time frame, but if you've got 264K on OEM or unknown injectors; new ones won't hurt and you can only go up from there as far as engine running conditions improving.

This is of course excluding all the small easy stuff first. Air intake system (filter, turbo, cooler, boots, etc.), Fuel Delivery (lift pump, filters, rail relief valve, injection pump), and valve adjustment.

Do you have any issues or observations from a cold start? Or black smoke while at temp? Crank time?

Light black smoke under throttle not all the time just if I stick it hard. It starts in about 10'ish seconds of cranking. I have contemplated new boots and intercooler being an issue. The rail relief valve was replaced with the race valve plug. Lift pump is right at a year, filters were just changed

 

[Doc Holiday]

One last thing I have a new FCA that I cant put in because I cant get the bottom bolt out of the old one.

 

[AH64ID]

The clutch fan delete could be costing fuel. I didn't delete the clutch I deleted the electronic clutch.

as could the cold air intake. How so?

What size tires? 33X12.50

Cali, SO, or HO? HO I believe

Yes that’s what I meant on the fan clutch, it may not run when it should be running. Why did you delete the stock fan clutch?

As for the CAI, I’ve yet to see a aftermarket CAI pull cooler air than the stock setup, which means more fuel. The stock setup is capably of nearly 400 rwhp, more with a Home Depot mod, so there isn’t anything to be gained with aftermarket below 400-450, or more.


I just saw your latest post. 10 seconds of cranking indicates the injectors are on their way out.

Put the rail pressure relief valve back in, unless you want to damage your injectors when you replace them.

It can’t hurt to adjust the valves, but it sounds like you need new injectors.

What are you using for filtration?

 

[Darkbloodmon]

It starts in about 10'ish seconds of cranking.

Aprox. 10 sec of cranking is a good bit, I'll see if I can find the passage about it in my 03 FSM but from memory it should be aprox. 4 sec ;given your starting system is sound.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I have a new FCA

The quick and dirty way to check your current FCA would be to pull the harness and crank it up, but I DO NOT recommend this with that rail relief plug installed. Pulling the FCA harness will allow near maximum injection pump pressure to be sent to the rail.

I'd be zeroing in on injectors being the most likely cause everything else excluded, Get a new rail relief valve with new injectors. You can save some money and get the rail with a new sensor and valve installed.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Yes that’s what I meant on the fan clutch, it may not run when it should be running. Why did you delete the stock fan clutch?

As for the CAI, I’ve yet to see a aftermarket CAI pull cooler air than the stock setup, which means more fuel. The stock setup is capably of nearly 400 rwhp, more with a Home Depot mod, so there isn’t anything to be gained with aftermarket below 400-450, or more.


I just saw your latest post. 10 seconds of cranking indicates the injectors are on their way out.

Put the rail pressure relief valve back in, unless you want to damage your injectors when you replace them.

It can’t hurt to adjust the valves, but it sounds like you need new injectors.

What are you using for filtration?

The stock clutch got replaced with a ford fan clutch mod because I hate wiring problems
I didn't put the CAI in so thats out of my control.

I said 10 seconds because I've never put it on a clock, its not long

2 micron Baldwin/Cat filters

 

[AH64ID]

The stock clutch got replaced with a ford fan clutch mod because I hate wiring problems
I didn't put the CAI in so thats out of my control.

I said 10 seconds because I've never put it on a clock, its not long

2 micron Baldwin/Cat filters

Obviously you can modify your truck how you want, but I can’t think of a single long term benefit to a mechanical fan clutch over an electronic one.

10 seconds is a very long crank time. 1-2 seconds is not long, 3-4 seconds feels like for ever, 5-6 an eternity… maybe time it.

Which Baldwin/cat filters? Neither company actually has a 2um filter that I’m aware of.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Aprox. 10 sec of cranking is a good bit, I'll see if I can find the passage about it in my 03 FSM but from memory it should be aprox. 4 sec ;given your starting system is sound.

The starting system is sound

 

[Doc Holiday]

Obviously you can modify your truck how you want, but I can’t think of a single long term benefit to a mechanical fan clutch over an electronic one.

I can, no stupid wires to get ripped out, they had been repaired previously at least twice. The fan clutch quit on me and was either the cause or a by product of the AC system getting nuked. Simple is always better. Lots of cars that never had electronics running systems for a long time without issue.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Which Baldwin/cat filters? Neither company actually has a 2um filter that I’m aware of.

This is the kit I have. I no longer use the Cat filter but I use the Baldwin equivalent

https://dieselfuelfilterkits.com/03_12_cummins_fuel_filter_kit.html

 

[Doc Holiday]

The quick and dirty way to check your current FCA would be to pull the harness and crank it up, but I DO NOT recommend this with that rail relief plug installed. Pulling the FCA harness will allow near maximum injection pump pressure to be sent to the rail.

I'd be zeroing in on injectors being the most likely cause everything else excluded, Get a new rail relief valve with new injectors. You can save some money and get the rail with a new sensor and valve installed.

Sounds like a 2nd gen engine swap is in the future for this truck. I can get a complete engine for the cost of injectors or I'll sell it and buy a 2nd gen.

 

[AH64ID]

I can, no stupid wires to get ripped out, they had been repaired previously at least twice. The fan clutch quit on me and was either the cause or a by product of the AC system getting nuked. Simple is always better. Lots of cars that never had electronics running systems for a long time without issue.

If wires are getting ripped off then something else is wrong.

Simple is not always better, it’s just simple. These trucks have had electronic fan clutch’s for more years than they didn’t, if simple was better that wouldn’t be the case. 14 years mechanical vs 20 electronic.

The AC system is one reason why the electronic fan clutch is better.

But again, we all can mod our stuff how we choose.

This is the kit I have. I no longer use the Cat filter but I use the Baldwin equivalent

https://dieselfuelfilterkits.com/03_12_cummins_fuel_filter_kit.html

The Baldwin Equivalent is the BF7633, is that what youre using? It’s a 7um filter, which isn’t bad but no better than stock.

The Cat 1R-0750 is a 4um filter, and has been since 2004. Lots of folks still like to market it with outdated specs thou.

The best filters for that mount are the Baldwin BF1212 and Fleetguard FF5814 (3um). The FF5814 isn’t cheap thou, so I ran the Donaldson DBF5814. Next would be a Donaldson P551313.

I like Baldwin, but they don’t make any media that crosses to the NanoNet or Donaldson equivalent. For the stock canister the PF7977 can’t be beat.

Sounds like a 2nd gen engine swap is in the future for this truck. I can get a complete engine for the cost of injectors or I'll sell it and buy a 2nd gen.

Sounds like it, CR/electronics are more expensive… but they are worth it to some.

 

[BigPapa]

I’d suggest buying what you want. If you don’t want to deal with the issues you have, you certainly don’t want to deal with an engine swap.

Say what you will about electronics and electronic controls, and I can’t BELIEVE that I’m saying this, but a 1st or 2nd Gen truck can’t hold a candle to the newer trucks BECAUSE of electronics and electronic controls.

 

[Doc Holiday]

If wires are getting ripped off then something else is wrong.

Simple is not always better, it’s just simple. These trucks have had electronic fan clutch’s for more years than they didn’t, if simple was better that wouldn’t be the case. 14 years mechanical vs 20 electronic.

The AC system is one reason why the electronic fan clutch is better.

But again, we all can mod our stuff how we choose.



The Baldwin Equivalent is the BF7633, is that what youre using? It’s a 7um filter, which isn’t bad but no better than stock.

The Cat 1R-0750 is a 4um filter, and has been since 2004. Lots of folks still like to market it with outdated specs thou.

The best filters for that mount are the Baldwin BF1212 and Fleetguard FF5814 (3um). The FF5814 isn’t cheap thou, so I ran the Donaldson DBF5814. Next would be a Donaldson P551313.

I like Baldwin, but they don’t make any media that crosses to the NanoNet or Donaldson equivalent. For the stock canister the PF7977 can’t be beat.



Sounds like it, CR/electronics are more expensive… but they are worth it to some.

Well I for sure have the BF1212 and the 7633. I'm gonna use the filters I currently have until their gone, and then I'll use the DBF5814 instead of the 7633. To be honest hopefully that'll be the next guys problem. I've owned it for 6 years and I want older mechanical stuff rather than driving a computer