VE top seals- No start.?

[R C Cola]

VE pump had a leak at the top. Bought seal kit $18. Using info on here decided to pull the top off. Put new top seal, and new O rings on the shafts that extend through to top. Replaced the gov spring while in there with 366. Turned up the Full Fuel screw 1/2 turn till it bumped the collar. Did not change pump timing! Is it possible to put the top on wrong and really screw things up ? Throttle timing marks are at approx. 10 and 4. Fuel shut off lever is a guess, put it back so throw would put it against the adjustable stop at rear of pump. It seems to function as it should, no resistance except the spring. What now ? #@$%!

 

[dpuckett]

Try giving it some throttle as you crank- if you got the throttle shaft a tooth off, it will have too low an idle setting, and wont start.



I dont remember exactly, but I think it may be possible to get your throttle lever reversed and give you the same result. I could be wrong on that, though.



Daniel

 

[R C Cola]

Start ? ? throttle ?

Thanks I will try that one first thing in the morn.

 

[R C Cola]

Pump Guru's need your help !

Still no start, battery down now and charging. Fuel dribbles out when I loosen 3 or 4 injector nuts but no major squirting like I have seen in the past when I ran out of fuel. Best I can tell the lift pump lever does not do anything at all, it moves but with no resistance ? Never did like that dang thing anyway. Do not have a fuel pressure gauge installed.

 

[JLEONARD]

Mine acted like that two times.

Once it was a bad lift pump... the rubber "check valve" had partially disinigrated (after 2 years of service).

The second time I had a rusted out fuel line near the tank... hence the lift pump couldn't draw any fuel.



There are two places to look that got me.

 

[R C Cola]

Pump Update !

Still will not fire. Fuel to the lift pump, prime lever works to move thru the pump, lifts to the fuel filter, crank with injectors loose to see fuel and what we get is dribbles. checked prime lever and it will force dribble out at the injectors. Went thru these about 5 times each same results. Tried with no throttle, some throttle, and wide open. #@$%!

 

[PToombs]

Not to be a wise guy, but did you check the shut off solenoid connections? Listen to make sure it clicks on?

 

[R C Cola]

Pump Solenoids

I did check voltage to the solenoid and it read 12. 8V with the key in the on position. I will check for the click first thing in the am. Thanks R C

 

[JLEONARD]

To check the solenoid use a jumper wire directly from the battery... . that way you'll be close enough to the solenoid to hear it... you won't hear it from inside the cab. (at least these old ears can't hear it lol)

Jay

 

[JGrefenstette]

hmm, i guess my young ears aint too bad, but i can hear that click, clear as day from the cab. :-laf

 

[PToombs]

I turn the key on, then pull the wire off and touch it back on.

 

[R C Cola]

Wire

Wire on off I like that will try thanks

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Jimmy, I'd imagine the click you hear from the cab is the grid heater relay, when its cold after you hear the first click listen for another 15 seconds or so and you'll hear it shut off again, just as your wait to start light goes out.

 

[JGrefenstette]

i know what your talkin about matt, but no its the solenoid im almost certain. i know what the heater sounds like, and it aint that, this clicks evertime i turn the key, after driving it all day it will still do it, and when its 100+ degrees out it does it

 

[R C Cola]

Wires to Solenoid ?

This time I checked voltage at solenoid 11. 7V a little low but should work. That is with the key on. There are 2 wires that attach to the top of the solenoid, one of them is hot, and one is not. Not sure where they come from individually. The wire that is hot removed and played on and off of the terminal with no sound effects. Yes I am old and hard of hearing but think I should hear a click of some kind. Next I plan to remove solenoid and do a bench test per/se with the 12V to see if we get movement, should be able to see it. !

 

[PToombs]

Or you can pull the plunger and spring, and put the solenoid back in. If it starts then, you know it's bad. You will have to shut it off with the lever though, until you get parts.

 

[R C Cola]

Head Scratchin time

Could not figure out why showed voltage at solenoid but heard no click. Held a wire from batt pos post to solenoid and got a click that way.

 

[PToombs]

Bad connection at the solenoid? Did you hook the jumper wire up and try to start it?

 

[JLEONARD]

Squeeze the connector so it's a tight fit... or crimp on a new one.

After you do what pete said to prove it out.

edit

That's what I had to to get mine to run the time my ignition switch crapped out... I just used a jumper wire with aligator clips to the battery... . pulled the clip off the batt when I got where I was going. Got me by for a week while I changed out the switch.



Good luck.

 

[R C Cola]

Pump Wizard

Terminals are now tight. When power is applied click is very, very quiet ? Normal ? Pump prime works good at pump so checked at my now new filter, good there also. Loosened incoming fuel line at I P and prime pumps thru good also to here. ? ? ? Looks like I may have to remove the full fuel screw to get the solenoid out ?