Vehicle Stalled

[Mike Wenrich]

Last evening I was driving my 2004.5 up into the foothills where I live and the engine sputtered and quit, like when you run out of fuel. While waiting for the tow truck I tried starting and it would momentarily run then shut down. I'm suspecting the fuel pump with 150k on the odometer and one of the two error codes might point to that but I cannot locate a description of the other code on my TDR list. 0148 fuel delivery loss is one but 0648 does not show up. I have 3/4 tank of fuel so that is not the issue. I would like to know how I might check the pump and find out about the other code. I plan to check the filter for potential clog issues but not sure how to check the pump or maybe what else I might check.

I've had the truck since new and given regular service with NO problems before. Been a great truck until this issue. Any ideas much appreciated.

Mike

 

[jgillott]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, what psi are you seeing?

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I forget the cut off year, but do you know if you have a filter housing mounted pump or an in tank sending unit?

I would have someone or yourself turn the key to the run position and listen for the pump at the fuel filler neck (intank) and at the filter housing location (driver side rear of the engine)

 

[petersonj]

I think the lift pump will only run for a second or so with the key in the run position. Bump the starter and leave the key in the run position. The lift pump should now run for approximately 20 seconds.

- John

 

[SnoKing]

P0648 Code - Immobilizer Lamp Control Circuit

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I do not have a pressure gauge so I will have to do the hearing test. I do have a stethoscope so maybe with that on the tank I will be able to hear if it's trying to pump fuel. Good to know the 0648 code is unrelated. Not sure what it's related to but not this issue.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Forgot to add that I have in in tank pump. Also forgot to ask if there is a possible fuse to check. That likely would thrown a code though. And...I called Genos to check availability in case it's the pump and they don't have a pump replacement for the 2004. Rock auto shows a couple, including one Delfi but the description is a little ambiguous. May have to check for OEM.

 

[Ozymandias]

Many pumps on rockauto for converted ones like yours.

Open the drain on the fuel filter canister, switch on ignition and bump starter, see if you get a good flow.
The in-tank pump very very rarely fails.

No fuse.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I guess the converted term is whats throwing me off. This in tank pump is stock. Also, yesterday I pulled the fuel filter out and put a new one in after sucking out the contents in the canister. The filter was dirty with 10K on it but nothing more than what I have seen in the past. The canister has fuel so I was a little surprised about that. Primed the system again and the truck started and died within about 2-3 seconds. Then would not start. For those 2-3 seconds it sounded like a normal start.

I looked for a schrader type valve to do a pressure test and I don't see one. Does the 2004.5 have one??? With no fuse to check, and if the pump is working, not sure where to look next.

 

[Ozymandias]

There is no pressure needed, just flow.
Nothing real to measure that's why I suggested to check that at the drain.

04,5 did NOT come with the in-tank from factory, 05 was the first year for that ans several other changes.

2-3 seconds sounds more like the security is shutting it down, sounds odd but does the red light come on in the dash?

 

[Ozymandias]

Don't insist on the fuel side - you got the P0648 too.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Took the suggestion to look at the 0648 code trouble reports and found one of the issues to that is a bad battery in the key fob. Took out my spare set of keys and after three cycles of the ignition the truck started and ran it at idle for about five minutes. It was getting dark/cold so I shut down. Then looked at the battery in the fob I have been using and cannot recall when, if ever, I replaced it. But.....would that or could that issue happen while driving? I can understand maybe not starting but after firing up and driving for 30 miles would it just stop? I'm a bit afraid of getting too far away from home and having it happen again. I live in the foothills with few places to pull off the road.

Ran the code reader again and now I have a 0628 code. Relay circuit low, fuel lift pump control circuit low. Looked for help on TDR for that code and most are related to 2003 or early 2004 builds. Today I plan to erase the codes and see if they activate again. I was going to open the drain valve and turn the engine over but now that is starts I must be getting fuel. Just don't know how much.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Bit of an update. Ran the truck around the block so to speak and it feels normal with good power. But cannot get rid of the check engine light or codes. So I'm afraid of getting too far away from home. Called a local mechanic I use when I can't figure this stuff out. He suggested disconnecting one battery ground cable on one of the batterys and both cables on the other and then touch them together for five seconds. That is supposed to erase the codes. Did that and hope I got it right on which ones to disconnect. Did not erase the codes but did erase all my presets, etc. He said there might be a short if that did not work. Anyone try this before???

 

[Ozymandias]

Must be an old mechanic then, back in the 80th into the 90th it was possible to erase codes that way. Long time gone.
Only thing it does is to re-boot the whole system, which is a good idea.

I suggest to check with Witech at a dealer, you have agood chance to get a proper diagnose that way.
An aftermarket codereader is no more then a very minor information to solve the whole puzzle.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Good point. I have an appt. with this shop for Tuesday when they will make a call to a company that has the license to access this system...or so I'm told. It has worked in the past on my previously owned 2014 RAM diesel. I'm hoping for some good info on this and if not, I will have to make the long drive to a dealer. I would still like to know if the key fob battery could have caused this but I think not. I probably could not have unlocked the truck with the fob numerous times that day if the battery was bad.

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

Bit of an update. Ran the truck around the block so to speak and it feels normal with good power. But cannot get rid of the check engine light or codes. So I'm afraid of getting too far away from home. Called a local mechanic I use when I can't figure this stuff out. He suggested disconnecting one battery ground cable on one of the batterys and both cables on the other and then touch them together for five seconds. That is supposed to erase the codes. Did that and hope I got it right on which ones to disconnect. Did not erase the codes but did erase all my presets, etc. He said there might be a short if that did not work. Anyone try this before???

FYI, most auto parts stores can hook up to your OBD2 port and scan for codes. They will also clear and reset for you, for free. It only takes them a minute or two.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I have a scanner Rowdy. Actually two because my older one did not contain the data to read codes on the 2014 RAM I had. Both will erase codes. And have dome so in the past. But these two codes won't go away. Something else is wrong and it's beyond my ability to solve. I live in a mountainous area and most of the time there is no place to pull off two lane roads. So I need to make sure there is not something going on that will be a continuing problem.

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

I have a scanner Rowdy. Actually two because my older one did not contain the data to read codes on the 2014 RAM I had. Both will erase codes. And have dome so in the past. But these two codes won't go away. Something else is wrong and it's beyond my ability to solve. I live in a mountainous area and most of the time there is no place to pull off two lane roads. So I need to make sure there is not something going on that will be a continuing problem.

Gotcha.
.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Tried to drive the truck to a repair shop yesterday and got two miles from home before it quit. Tow truck took it the rest of the way. Just got a call that it's the injection pump on the side of the engine, not the one in the tank. But...the MOPAR pump is not available. National back order. A Precision brand pump is available, for $338 and the parts store says they have not had comebacks on these. I'm authorizing the repair since I need to get back on the road but would like to know if anyone has had an experience with these. I've heard Carter makes this type of pump as well but I cannot find reviews on that brand other than often the reviews are bad. Anyone know about the Precision brand? One look on line mentions a "Precise" brand that was bad out of the box. Unknown if it's the same.

 

[AH64ID]

Was the shop trying to find the Mopar engine mounted lift pump? Or the in-tank retrofit?

My 0.02 is to not spend any money on an engine mounted LP, get the in-tank retrofit done.

The Mopar retrofit is available for about the same money as the Precision pump.

The part number is 68003870AB