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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vulcan Draw Straw

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Thread sealer

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Adjustable Boost Elbow

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GiesJ said:
I'm looking for a way not to be gunshy on doing the same thing. I'm on my 4th VP 44... Let us know how you fee once the wire has been tapped. Good luck!



Scroll up a bit. Prior to the fuel mods I had only realistically ran the TST on level 5. Above that the SOP dyno said more noise no more power. I would guess, as others have described it, the VP was shuddering from lack of ample fuel flow. My fuel pressue would go below 3 psi with the TST on level 5. After the mod's, with just the SOP dyno, the TST levels 6-9 seem usable now.



However.....



If I was on my fouth VP I would also think much differently.



Jim
 
Yeah, I wasted a VP44 because of lift pump issues as well.

And I am VERY leary about ruining the HRVP44!!! They cost a lot more!

But now with more fuel, I shouldn't have any problems concerning fuel getting to the VP anymore.

As for idle or anything else, I haven't ran it enough to even warm it up. I basically got all the air out of the lines, revved it up a few times, and shut it down. Today I should run it more after I get the bed back on again.
 
DavidC said:
I would think it would need a new design. The roadrunner float is approx. 1" in diameter. Looks like a miniature 55 gallon drum. On one end it has an inverted seam that holds the float in the potentiomer arm which has a round section, a press fit. My idea would be to use this system with a rod that would attach the the existing Dodge float rod. You would probably not want to build a brass float to mimic Dodges idea as it is a loose fit and probably would eventually wear thru the brass.



Dave



The design is that way so the float can rotate and keep the proper orientation based on the fuel level. I am planning on getting as close a fit as pssible to eliminate excess play, but still allow the float to rotate.
 
BTowler said:
The design is that way so the float can rotate and keep the proper orientation based on the fuel level. I am planning on getting as close a fit as pssible to eliminate excess play, but still allow the float to rotate.



Let us know how it turns out. I would think you may be in the float business if it proves to be better than plastic.



Dave
 
I got a lead on a company that makes brass fuel floats. However to get the right one we need to know the displacement of the DC one. Anyone know what the displacement value is in ounces?



There is a wide variety to chose from or they can make whatever size you want in whatever shape you want. They have several different mounting styles as well.



Bob Weis
 
DMannon said:
I took a picture of mine taken apart and put some crude labels on it.
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This module is different than mine - must be the other type Rich mentioned in the instructions.
 
Bob,

Just got a complete fuel module off ebay, will pm the info to you when I get it in, and will send a pic of the prototype once I get it built.

Bruce
 
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