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Weekend maintenance on the '01

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Flat tow a 2nd Gen 3500 2WD 5 Speed

Rim fitment

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NIsaacs

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At 312k miles it still doesen't owe me a dime, what an awesome truck:)

Rebuilt the vacuum pump again (2nd time) the seal (Cummins)was rock hard, yet the p/s pump is original, no leaks, I change the fluid every 100k.

New front drive shaft u-joint at the diff. 100k miles on it, cv joint is original.

New rear output seal at the t-case, 100k on it. Checked the oil and it was about a pint over full and slightly discolered and the transmission was about a pint low, so gonna have to watch them. Need to buy some ATF+4 and change it.

Changed engine oil, filter and air filter. Also installed a crankcase vent hose since I lost my little catch bottle on these rough haul roads.

My hands are all bruised up from the vacuum pump R&R....

Nick
 
I recently did a complete cooling system flush/T-stat on my 228,000-mile '98.5. Gotta keep the original 53 block going, lol. The auto trans is an untouched original as well. I've done quite a bit to the ol' rig lately, like a new frame mounted transfer pump and frame mounted fuel filter, new front ball joints (2wd) with frontend alignment, then on went a new set of 20" Weld rims and tires. It looks pretty nice now. It'll turn 20 next February, there's no plans at all to let it go. It's been my daily driver most of the time since I bought it 5-1/2 years ago.
 
Can’t say enough about the old girl (in sig, not the wife —> she’s AWESOME too...). bought in 5/01 with 75k, presently about 228k, I’ve done a ton to her over the years with the most recent, a few years back, being a new paint job and rust remediation (new driver door, r/rear door lower patch, new outer fenders and both bedside wheel arch’s, and a few other patched in metal parts. She looks fresh again.

We’re all driving a Cummins with a Dodge wrapped around it. I’ll keep her forever, however long that may be. God forbid should anything happen to the Dodge wrapped around the Cummins I’d be inclined to pull the engine, trans and associated electronics and figure out a way to install in my 73 340 Duster. You know make an “Oiler” (not a Gasser) out of it, would be unique for sure and with the BOMBs on the engine and trans and about half the weight it would probably run a pretty respectable 1/4 mile.....
 
Went ahead and changed out the two seals between the transmission and t-case. The transmission was hard as a rock and the t-case appeared to be the wrong one. It was a single lip seal. All the research I did, showed a double lip seal, so that is what I went with. Messed around and dropped it off the floor jack, it was kinda a controlled fall, but still bent one of the mounting studs. I did manage to bend it back without breaking it. It was a hand full to install....they don't fit a floor jack very good with the chain case on a slant. We used some nylon ratchet straps from the frame under the t-case for safety and managed to keep it on the jack long enough to re stab it....

Nick
 
Time for starter contacts, so changed them today. Note the knife blade edge on the battery cable side, the starter motor side was fine as was the plunger disk. Used the HD Gould set from Geno's.

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Nick

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the starter motor side was fine as was the plunger disk. Used the HD Gould set from Geno's.
Nick, did you notice any improvement/difference in starter performance after doing this maintenance with the HD Gould set? I'm considering doing the same with the '99 in my signature.

Looks good and thanks for the pics.

Michael
 
Michael, no, not really, it always worked good, just started to get the click, click at times. It has 316k, so it was due. The only issue I had was the rubber cover over the battery cable, it was rock hard so I had to break it off, the rest of the job was no problem. The bolts were a little tight but not really an issue.

Nick
 
Thanks Nick. I removed the starter about three years ago when I replaced a crank position sensor and at that time cleaned the contacts and inspected things. No issues with starter such as click - click, but at 19 years old and 253K miles now it would be good preventative maintenance.
 
Time for starter contacts, so changed them today. Note the knife blade edge on the battery cable side, the starter motor side was fine as was the plunger disk. Used the HD Gould set from Geno's.

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Nick

I really need to get my truck serviced currently everything is up for service or almost up engine oil, trans oil and filter transfer case oil and filter rear diff and a chassis grease and fuel filter currently dumpling about a gallon of water in it a day my daily commute to work is less than 20 miles so I think that crack is growing .
 
My hydro-boost started leaking this week so I ordered a seal for the piston and figure 8 o-ring seal for the case halves. The kit is universal with two piston seals, mine was the large one. You can also get a complete seal kit but I opted for just the piston seal. With all the research I did, it
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appears to be very common. It will leak out a weep hole similar to a water pump. I did not have any seepage into the cab. I was completely intimidated but did it anyway, Lol I was not interested in a $200+ recon v/s $20 seal kit. It was genuine Bosch/Bendix. I also left the main case half attached to the cab and just separated them right on the truck. Not a bad job at all. I also rinsed and dumped the old brake fluid and filled with new. Some pictures.

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Just did an install of a power steering cooler, it is a little large but I had it new on the shelf. I bought it for my old Ford (auto transmission) and then bought a new Dodge instead, (1991) so it has been on the shelf a long time.

I also wanted to check return flow...on my truck, with the steering box return line pointed at my oil drain pan, I had my wife start the truck. The flow was massive and emptied the reservoir instantly. Granted, it only holds about a pint, but in about 2 seconds the fluid turned to foamy air. If I remember right, when I would change the fluid it only required a little less than a quart. The system now holds 1.250 quarts, a good thing. Here are a couple of pictures.

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Not sure why, but now my pump never growls. For as long as I can remember when it was hot or really cold, it would growl on a right turn, never to the left, weird but true. Now it don't make a sound. I do expect it to make some brief noise this winter.
 
A little pricier than the NAPA probably, but I recommend Red Line synthetic. My pump never makes a peep, hot or cold.
 
A little pricier than the NAPA probably, but I recommend Red Line synthetic. My pump never makes a peep, hot or cold.
X2 on the Red Line Synthetic. I've been using Red Line Power Steering Fluid in my 1999 since 01 and it has been quiet and smooth even in cold winter temperatures with no issues along way to 257k miles.
 
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That's good to know. If it makes any noise this winter I will change it out to the Red Line Synthetic.
Changing to the Red Line I also noticed a change in "steering feel" making it lighter overall and more precice off center too. Have used the NAPA power steering fluid in other vehicles with good success too, but have not tried in it the Dodge. The NAPA fluid was smooth and long lasting in a GMC Suburban that I drove for a long time.

Michael
 
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