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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What brand of brake pads should I use?

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My brakes are squeeking so I am going to do the front brakes. What pads should I get? Want good stopping power but also don't want them to prematurely wear either. Thanks. :)
 
Since TDR brake guru Sam Peterson's shop is just down the road from you in Oly I'd get Carbomet pads from him - 360-357-4958. Sam has mucho experience with our brake systems and has found these to be the best after many years and brands. They won't squeek, wear out your rotors nor make excessive dust. His price is highly competive, I think $41 for two pairs, and includes new caliper pins and all the lube you need.
 
Performance Friction pads from Autozone on my dually. Lifetime warranty for 36. 00.



Plus 100K+ on first rotors.

On my second set of calipers due to one dragging.



Napa / Raybestos are also good reports.
 
I agree with RedRam, the performance friction from autozone are good and autozone had no problem when I took my set back for a warranty replacement. All I had to do was show my receipt and a new set was handed to me. Hmmmm maybe DC should look into autozones policy of warranty items and stop giving us a hard time.
 
I just bought some EBC 6000 brake pads for 4X4 and SUV's from tirerack.com but have not put them on yet. Anyone ever heard of these or have any comments about them before I put them on?
 
Hey There HOMERDOG,



I also bought a set of the EBC Pads. . Will be putting them on this coming week and will let ya know. .

The RackMan
 
I got my Carbomet pads and was wondering if you were putting anything on the back of the pads. The stockers have that plastic cover where these don't. What do I need? On the older cars I was using the disk quiet which is like a blue RTV, should I use this?:)
 
Oh and one other thing, where can I have my rotors ground on the weekend. Obviously some place local to the kent-renton area. I would have Sam grind them but he isn't open on the weekend and I can't make it to his shop before they close during the week. We have two cars in our household and we both work so I have to have my truck and no down time with it. Thanks. :)
 
went metal to metal.........

Kind of upset. I knew the pads were getting low but didn't think they were that bad. Just about 10K miles on this set of pads. I'm pretty upset seeing they cost me plenty. To tell you the truth I didn't think the carbon/kevlar were all that great for stopping either. My recomendation is to not waste your money.



I bought a set of pads from napa for around $100 to put on in the interem. Work is so slammed I don't have time to get into a major brake job now. The rotor only got a small amount of damage and it may be able to be turned out. If not I may just keep buying the cheaper pads and replacing them more often. It seems to stop better now than when I did the whole brake job front and rear.



20K on the stock set and now 10K on the replacements. Wish I would have waited a half year and got disc's in the rear too. That may have helped the most. The auto adjusters are worthless.



Garrett
 
Re: went metal to metal.........

Originally posted by Big White Beast

Kind of upset. I knew the pads were getting low but didn't think they were that bad. Just about 10K miles on this set of pads. I'm pretty upset seeing they cost me plenty. To tell you the truth I didn't think the carbon/kevlar were all that great for stopping either. My recomendation is to not waste your money.



I bought a set of pads from napa for around $100 to put on in the interem. Work is so slammed I don't have time to get into a major brake job now. The rotor only got a small amount of damage and it may be able to be turned out. If not I may just keep buying the cheaper pads and replacing them more often. It seems to stop better now than when I did the whole brake job front and rear.



20K on the stock set and now 10K on the replacements. Wish I would have waited a half year and got disc's in the rear too. That may have helped the most. The auto adjusters are worthless.



Garrett
What brand of pads did you get. Just curious. :)
 
PM me.......

I don't want to slam vendors in an open forum. I haven't talked with them yet so I will reserve judgement until I see what they have to say.



Garrett
 
Big White Beast some rear auto adjusters work to well. I installed EGR's rear shoes, brake line, new springs and bigger slave cylinders adjusted them manually backed up a coupla times and drove 20 miles RT to Home Depot. Got home and my drivers side rear brakes were SMOKIN. Let them cool down and backed off adjuster so I could get drum off. Everything looked okay so I readjusted brakes and test drove it again-so far so good.

Front brake pads-I have tried many pads and Performance Friction Carbon metallic seem to last the longest but I am trying Wagners new Severe Service pads on my 99 and they seem to be holding up well. Oh with the EGR setup on the rear of my 96 3500 4x4 it does stop quicker and with less pedal travel.
 
Of the above mentioned pads, which cause the least dust. My front rims were reddish brown after only about 8,000 miles. The only thing I hate more than dusted rims is cleaning them!



Roy
 
Seems the people have had luck with the Carbomet pads. I have these sittin on my desk but have to find the time to install them. :)
 
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Chipstein---To answer your question about what to use on the back of the pads during installation, If you have used a brake quiet product for the back of the pads it can't hurt anything. Be sure to use the black brake lube on all the metal to metal areas. If you prepare the rotor surface properly you usually won't need anything else. ---Sam---p/s sorry for not being open on saturdays.
 
Chipstien

I had Sam Peteron (Rapid Brake in Olympia) do my brakes a week or so a go. I am very happy7 with the work done, the performance , and the price charged. Sam is an honest person and does quality work. Cant say that I have had the same experience with the Dodge dealers. I would recomend him highly to anyone.



:

D
 
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