2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What happens when a front u-joint fails ?

[damon]

After reading a few threads on failing u-joints, I pretty sure that's what is happening with my truck. Every so often, when starting into a turn from a stop, the truck surges with a very noticeable binding-freeing-binding feeling coming from the front passenger wheel. The first time it happened I thougt I had loose lug nuts or something else allowing the wheel to wobble.



I have done the recommended test of lifting the front on jack stands, and tested the wheel rotation at every steering angle, and everything is perfectly smooth. I guess this is no surprise since it only acts up on the road every few days, and only once or twice during a day.



so my real question is, what can happen when a u-joint fails? I assume it is failing slowly now, but have no way to prove it. Could it bind up solid and lock the wheel ? Could it get really sloppy and self-destruct ?



I appreciate any insight, as I've not ever dealt with this.

 

[Neibe]

You sure it isn't a sticky caliper my truck has over 160,000 on the original u-joints.

 

[TMitch]

I had to replace my right front u-joint last summer. I could hear it klunking when driving at slow speed. You shoud be able to reach in and feel the play in between the 2 yokes. Found a worn out lower ball joint when I put in the jack stands so replaced that at the same time. That was the 2nd one to go in the right front in 60000 miles, the original left front is still tight?

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

You didn't happen to be in 4x4 when you noticed the "a very noticeable binding-freeing-binding feeling coming from the front passenger wheel. " did you? If so, it's not your u-joint but the components of the 4x4 working against themselves in a tight turn.

 

[damon]

Definitely not in 4x4, I've done that (actually my dog knocked the transfer case lever) by accident once. I suppose it could be a sticky caliper, but again have no way to test it since it's intermittent.



Also worth mentioning that I have heard a loud pop noise from the front right just before the wheel seems to free up and roll normally. Could this be a sign of a sticking caliper, or more likely u-joints ?



Surprising to me that the u-joint would fail with only 55k miles.

 

[Scott Elliott]

I have 64000 on my '02 and just had a U joint replaced on the main drive shaft just forward of the rear differential two days ago. It was binding up and causing a vibration. One part of it was completely dried out and severely worn. That solved the vibration. I haven't had any problems with the front, yet.

 

[MHalloran]

damon... with only 55k miles you wouldn't think the front axle U-joints would go bad, but it may be possible. Jack up the front end, cut the wheels hard to the right, and spin the tire by hand and eyeball (from the front) the pass. side U-joint. Then cut wheels hard left and check driver side same way. If U-joints are loose or "bad", you should see this as you slowly rotate them. Mine went bad in my truck (after 150,000 miles though) and clicked and clunked as I drove (more noticable at low speeds) You do much 4-wheeling? Check your lower ball joints while you are under there as well with a pry or pinch bar. Good luck!! Mike

 

[Extreme1]

That sounds like how the right u-joint in my truck was feeling before it wore out. The time between the intermittant tightness and the joint actually wearing out was almost 2 years! But it did finally wear out and loose the needles. Just keep an eye on it and when it's time, do the ball joints too.



The left side is still original and tight!

 

[damon]

Thanks for the replies.



I hate intermittent problems, and would much rather just have a part fail if it's going to, close to home preferrably !



This type of thing worries me as we are coming into summer and will be doing a lot of traveling with the 5th wheel. At 20k pounds and my family onboard, traveling through lots of steep mountain roads, an intermittent issue could rear it's head and become a real problem.



I hope I can get to the bottom of this soon.

 

[TMitch]

I had the sticky caliper problem about a year ago. It was real easy to diagnose because the brake heated up and you could smell it. I pulled the wheel off and pryed it free but everytime I applied the brakes it would hang up again. I ended up replacing the front calipers. Taking the calipers apart is now part of my preventative maintenance program. Had sticky rear calipers on my wifes '03 Honda CRV at 12000 miles. It must be our corrosive enviroment up here.

Other casualty parts due to heavy salt air have been brake lines and the rear tank strap.

 

[mechanic]

After reading a few threads on failing u-joints, I pretty sure that's what is happening with my truck. Every so often, when starting into a turn from a stop, the truck surges with a very noticeable binding-freeing-binding feeling coming from the front passenger wheel. The first time it happened I thougt I had loose lug nuts or something else allowing the wheel to wobble.



I have done the recommended test of lifting the front on jack stands, and tested the wheel rotation at every steering angle, and everything is perfectly smooth. I guess this is no surprise since it only acts up on the road every few days, and only once or twice during a day.



so my real question is, what can happen when a u-joint fails? I assume it is failing slowly now, but have no way to prove it. Could it bind up solid and lock the wheel ? Could it get really sloppy and self-destruct ?



I appreciate any insight, as I've not ever dealt with this.

Just another "could-be". You seem to have a problem in the r/front u-joint, however you could also have another issue with the rear differential. You don't say if it is a positrac. If it is, and the grease is old or is not for limited slip differentials, then you can get a lot of jerking, binding, popping, clunking and ect from the clutches in the limited slip unit. This will get worse as the oil temp goes up. The cure is usually as simple as a lub change for the rear axle, or sometimes just add a friction modifier to the fluid that is there. The GM additive is very good, also the BG products and the LUBGARD products have an excellent additive.

 

[damon]

The rear diff is LSD (I assume the same as positrac?) and has the original fluid. At this point it probably needs changing anyway after 55k miles, so I will give that a shot and see if it helps.