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what is a good aftermarket air intake system?

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hello, i'm interested in getting a good flowing aftermarket air intake system that still filters good. this being my first diesel i'm not sure which are good and which aren't, my truck is an 05 2500 4x4 48re reg. cab. any info woiuld be appreciated
 
i kinda have a queston along the same lines, want some other ideas... what air-intake and ram-air hood work together for a '03?? i want a functional ram-air hood that works with a good flowing air filter and box???thanks robert
 
I really like my K&N. I pulled it off last week, after having it on the truck for nearly 11 months. I surprised to not see any dirt or dust inside the housing, really thats one of my biggest concerns. also it was cheap, got it for about $215. 00 over the counter at my local 5-star.



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-Ryan
 
I second lethal injec. Man, my brute force is awesome. For those of you looking for that awesome turbo sound, this is a great way to go. I just got the Afe pro guard 7 with a pre filter.
 
After reading some of the other threads about afe one had burned his torque tube another one took of his filter and found dirt on the inside of the torque tube that;s a problem I have run a K&N filters on every truck I have owned and never had a problem I even have one on my lawn mower and I don't have to clean it all season and they have a very hellpfull staff . Iwork in a gravel pit and have never found dirt on the inside of the torque tube.
 
ASchwartz,



I've heard that some here stay away from K&N. Is it a personal prefference thing, or is there some science behind it?



Thanks,

Greg
 
The filtering results we are getting from the Scotty 3 and 5 are better then we expected. After 10,000 miles, 5ppm silicon on a Scotty 3 [used on the 03/04 trucks... same filter as the Scotty 5 for the 04. 5-06 trucks] and I intentionally tried to clog this thing following a combine for a full morning with dirt and grain dust covering the truck. I then drove the truck without servicing the filter for another 3500 miles before I took the sample.

Afterall, I wanted to see if the two layer foam was doing its job.

Lower EGT, improved mileage reports direct from end users and great filtration.



Scotty
 
I've heard the K&N intake voids warranty, anyone know if this is true? And what about the others, I would like an aftermarket intake myself. .
 
filter

stick with the stock airbox and ditch the silencer tube and replace the stock air filter with a new synthetic amsoil filter, its good for 500 hp+ and no issues with dirt or warranty. :-laf
 
Labonte18 said:
i kinda have a queston along the same lines, want some other ideas... what air-intake and ram-air hood work together for a '03?? i want a functional ram-air hood that works with a good flowing air filter and box???thanks robert



This has been my experience, FWIW:



I originally bought an AFE Mag Force with the original Torque Tube. I was not told about the pre-filter. I ran it for about 5k miles through the winter. It was raining a LOT. I checked the filter one day, and it was completely soaked with water. I was disappointed.



Later that week I pulled the Torque Tube and found the inside was not powdercoated, and that it had corrosion all over the inside. You could flake the white powdery stuff off very easily. (newer Torque Tubes will not have that problem because they're plastic) I decided to have the Torque Tube powdercoated inside and out. I also added a pre-filter.



At the same time I checked the turbine blades. They were sticky and black. That lead me to believe that my engine ingested some dust at some point after the filter had been soaked a couple times. I believe that the water displaced the oil reducing its effectiveness.



I ran the pre-filter and powdercoated system for a while, and found that the pre-filter is largely useless in '03 trucks ('04's may be the same). The filter was still getting soaked.



There is no shroud between the CAC and the headlight in the early 3rd gens. It gives fresh air a direct path to the AFE filter. It's like built-in ram-air, but it's also a ram-rain and ram-slush. The pre-filter simply cannot keep that much water out.



I like the AFE system. It flows well and sounds good. I just needed to find a solution. I went to a plastic store and purchased some 1/8” thick polycarbonate. I then cut it to fit the area between the A/C condenser and the headlight. I heated and folded the edges to keep it from flexing and letting water by.



After driving through some of the worst weather in a long time here in Northern California, I can tell you this is the solution to wet filters. I drove through extreme rain, streets that were flooded with 1-1/2 feet of water (several miles worth), and two snow storms.



I checked the filter periodically, and there were only a few drops of water on the pre-filter. I’m now a happy camper :D But you can be sure I pull the shield off in summer to get cold air to the filter.



The newer trucks already have a plastic shroud, so I’d bet they don’t cause the filter to get wet in the same way.
 
I use the AFE system on my 2001. 5 (works great), but have decided not to use AFE, after reading numerous reports, on my 2004. 5.



I ordered the new Amsoil Absolute Efficiency Air (EaA) filter, and will use similar cold air intake as PSM Buick sells. I sourced all the parts, flanges, band clamps, and dura-flex ducting (fuel resistant and has 275*F continuous rating) for approximately $20. 00.



From what I understand, this setup will give me cooler intake air versus an open air intake system, and support up to 450hp. Best part is it only cost me $60. 00.



I haven't installed gauges yet, so I won't be able to report whether it reduces EGTs. However, based on reports that I've read, I suspect they'll be reduced by no less than 50*F.



There are too many options... happy hunting.





Dwayne
 
wmoody,



Got the 4" dura-flex ducting (9025) from RGA Rubber and Gasket Co. They're a local Co. I'm still using the 4" ABS toilet (closet) flange to attach the ducting to the air box. But on the other end, I'll shove a 3" ABS coupling into it, band clamp in place, and secure it to the fender well with a self-tapping screw, screwing from the bottom side of the fender well into the ABS coupling. I may even put screen over the 3" coupling to keep from ingesting too many bugs. By the way, I paid $5. 12 a foot for the ducting. Take care.





Dwayne
 
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