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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What is the trick to removing brake calipers

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kscheffler

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I have a rear brake that squeaks after letting off the brakes. I don't drive my truck very frequently so I think the caliper is sticking. Anyway, I removed the caliper slide pins and I could not remove the caliper assembly by just pulling up on it with my hands. I also opened the bleed valve so I don't think I had hydraulic pressure on the pads. What is the trick to get the caliper assembly to slide off? DO I just need to pull harder? It appears that the upper portion might have one of the anti rattle clips holding it in place? Not sure never had this off before and I am a bit hesitant to start prying on the caliper assembly. Thanks in advance.
 
When you open the bleeder push back on the brake pads to allow clearance. You'll see some brake fluid release, then close the bleeder valve. After you have installed the new brake pads, you must bleed the brakes and fill the master cylinder reservoir with the proper type brake fluid. Repeat the bleeding process, if necessary, until you see clean fluid come out.
 
How do you push back the brake pads when the caliper is still on the rotor? A screw driver through the inspection windows? There is not much room to get at the pads
 
What is the trick to get the caliper assembly to slide off?
I recently replaced the front rotors, pads, and calipers on my truck and ran into this same problem. Removal of the calipers can be very frustrating until you get the hang of it. Believe it or not, the calipers do just slide right off the support bracket... assuming of course there isn't a ridge on the outside of the brake rotor face holding the pads from sliding off. The trick is the entire caliper must be shifted slightly toward one end, then the other end will lift up and away from the support bracket. It's kind of like a puzzle, and once you figure it out you'll be amazed at how easily it comes off. But until you figure out the trick, it seems impossible to get them off.



Good luck,



John L.
 
How do you push back the brake pads when the caliper is still on the rotor? A screw driver through the inspection windows? There is not much room to get at the pads
The best way is using a large C-clamp to compress the caliper body against the brake pads. If you don't open the caliper bleed screw first, then applying pressure via the C-clamp forces brake fluid back to the brake fluid reservior... be watchful that it doesn't overflow. If you open the caliper bleed screw first, it makes it a lot easier.



John L.
 
Jlandry: So when you say shifted towards one end are you saying rotate the caliper assembly clockwise or counter clockwise and then one end will lift out? Also on the C clamp compression that you are descibing I should put the c clamp across the entire caliper body and mouting bracket and compress to push the break fluid out the bleed screw. Seems strange but I guess I can understand how that would work. Thanks for your response I had a frustrating day with this last weekend.
 
So when you say shifted towards one end are you saying rotate the caliper assembly clockwise or counter clockwise and then one end will lift out?
Exactly!



Also on the C clamp compression that you are descibing I should put the c clamp across the entire caliper body and mouting bracket and compress to push the break fluid out the bleed screw. Seems strange but I guess I can understand how that would work. Thanks for your response I had a frustrating day with this last weekend.
Yes... the C-clamp goes around the caliper. One end of the C-clamp squeezes against the side of the caliper body, and the other end squeezes against the exposed brake pad toward the outside of the vehicle. This forces the pistons back inside the caliper and causes the entire caliper body to shift sideways toward the inside of the vehicle.



They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here are a couple to look at. These aren't from a Dodge Ram, but it's the same idea:



#ad




#ad




Note that because of the way the Dodge Ram caliper is designed, you can't put a C-clamp right in the middle of the exposed brake pad as shown in the pictures above. You'll need to alternate the C-clamp back and forth a couple of inches each way to force the pistons back into the caliper evenly. I hope that makes sense when you look at the caliper.



Best regards,



John L.
 
Do not compress the pads without opening the bleed screw. Pushing fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir can cause junk to be pushed clogging things like the ABS, etc. and cause problems with them. Better safe than sorry and open the bleed screw!!!! While I have pushed fluid back without opening the bleed screw in other vehicles and have not had a problem, why take a chance? I have changed now open the bleed screw.
 
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