I have a bunch of UOAs on CJ-4 Rotella, and it shows very good wear numbers. The only thing I noted is that it doesn't seem to like heat, and will "boil off" causing the oil to increase in viscosity... and its not thickening because of soot because I have a bypass and insoluables show up at 0. 4% or less. Under "grocery-getter" duty, the oil looks fine, but heavy towing and long-duration high RPM/high EGT runs will yield funky UOAs (but still very acceptable wear numbers). And it only seems affected by my 3rd gen truck as my dad is running the same oil doing similar things with his 2nd gen and the oil never changes like it does for me.
I switched to Scheaffer Series 9000 5w40, and while the first UOA wasn't stellar, it was the first UOA on oil with almost 20k, and it has not been changed. I was a little disappointed, but I have been told to run it, and resample because its due to changing oils (both brand and type). My first UOA from the Schaeffers:
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The Cummins are fairly easy on oil, and as long as you use a brand name and do even somewhat routine changes, the oil is probably not even "bad" when most change it.
What Wayne has done with Amsoil (80k on the "same" oil), could be done with regular dino. As long as you keep it clean, and verify the oil is serviceable with UOAs, there is really no reason for frequent changes other than to have that warm fuzzy feeling. I had 30k on Rotella at one point (with bypass filtration), and it was completely normal in all aspects for 30k oil and still very serviceable. Oil technology has really improved, and that's both synthetic and conventional oils.
When choosing oil, it boils down to researching what works and what will give you that warm fuzzy feeling... if that's running a $50/quart full-synthetic on 500 mile changes, so be it. It all boils down to what makes you feel good.
At the end of the day, these engines will outlast most owners with minimal maintenance between trades... just look at JHardwick (that poor truck)...