2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What range to buy for boost gauge?

[SRath]

What boost range should I look for when buying a boost gauge for my truck? I have pretty much decided on Autometer Pro Comp II gauges, and they all seem to be mechanical boost gauges with 30psi, 35psi, and 60psi as the choices.



I'm guessing 35psi should be enough, but maybe I should get the 60psi? I don't have any real radical plans for my motor.



Would I lose any readability or precision with the 60psi if my boost never got over 35?



What do you guys recommend?

 

[Graphic man]

i started with a 30 psi (stock turbo)

then a 60 psi (66/14)

now i run x2 100 psi gages... ( twins @ 70 lb of boost)



one for boost and 1 for drive pressures





i would not go any smaller then a 60



just my $0. 02



Scott

 

[VRidgley]

The Carson Dodge guru, John Holmes, has recommended 30 (or 35, depending on brand) for my stock or near stock engine (see my modification list below). He says the stock engine is not expected to generate more than 30.

 

[MCharlebois]

i have a 35 on the shelf... ... go with a 60

marcel

 

[WestTN]

Typically, a mechanical gauge is most accurate in the middle third of it's range.

 

[klaybus]

Started with a #35 & now run a #60. Stock a 30-35 would be fine with an EZ & 275s. Add a Comp with a wire tap or DD II's or simular & a 30-35 won't be enough. When the bombing bug bites you WILL be buying a #60... . FWIW.



Clay

 

[Joe Mc]

I don't have any real radical plans for my motor.

Famous last words :-laf



I started with a 30# and then when the 64/14 QD and Mach 5s went in I pegged it in short order w/comp on 3/3



I went up to the 60 and I can see it doing 45 now.



If I had to do it over I'd do it the same way. A gage is more acurate in the middle of it's capability IE if you are running 24 - 28# the most acurate range is 5 - 30#. Although the 30# gage only shows numbers to 30# they usually show 2 hash marks beyond the last number = 34# MHO



Besides - when you are done with the 0 - 30 and need the 0 - 60 (believe me you may not think you'll do anything to your engine - but when the bug bites the slope gets slippery real quick) you can sell it to another member who's "just starting out" at a discount to him and offset the cost of the new 0 - 60 to you . . . worked for me anyway.

 

[Hammer]

I just started big with a White Faced EEP 100 lb Boost gauge way back when so I didn't have to buy a second one. Doooohhhh,Then what do I do,find a digital one I liked alot and then bought it and ended up with two. Its best to buy one size bigger than you need here it will save you some later... ..... Andy

 

[Woodenhead]

Get the 35. I had a 35, then put on a 60 when I did my HX40 just to see what boost it was really making. It was making no more than 40. The 35 will go well past the 35 mark and for me that wasn't too often and if it did I was lookin at the road anyway. I put the 35 back in and left it there for several years.



My 60 lb gauge takes about 5 psi just to get off the pin. If your running lower boost and don't need it you'll find it's using a very small portion of the sweep and is not very useful. Boost gauges are cheap, if you bomb it later and need a bigger gauge then get one later.



Mike

 

[MCummings]

If this helps any... 1Lb of boost for 10HP.



They are cheap anyway. Just get a 30, then when you need a 60, buy a 60. They are less than $70 and you don't have to change anything but the gauge out. The lights, and boost line are the same.



Merrick

 

[16919]

If this helps any... 1Lb of boost for 10HP.

They are cheap anyway. Just get a 30, then when you need a 60, buy a 60. They are less than $70 and you don't have to change anything but the gauge out. The lights, and boost line are the same.

Merrick

Thats awesome... . I was kissing the 50 psi mark the other day going down the highway... . so I guess I have close to 500hp with my setup. I would have thought I was in the low 4's maybe 440ish? Oh yeah... ... get the 60 psi gauge.

 

[16919]

When I dynoed my old set up I was putting down 38 psi or so off my HX so maybe there is some truth to that??

 

[Woodenhead]

If this helps any... 1Lb of boost for 10HP.



They are cheap anyway. Just get a 30, then when you need a 60, buy a 60. They are less than $70 and you don't have to change anything but the gauge out. The lights, and boost line are the same.



Merrick

With low mods and while staying within the efficiency of your turbo this is somewhat true but not exactly a replacement for the Dyno.



I made 460 on water meth and 430 on just fuel with just the HX40 that wasn't making over 40 lbs. Yes this was close to 10hp/psi but not exactly.



Or... you can take a stock HX35 and shove it to 50 psi (for a little while). This doesn't mean your making 500hp and your EGTs will be at nuclear levels .

 

[MCummings]

Of course that's flywheel HP. Take 15-20% for RWHP.



ALso changing turbo's camshafts, porting the head or going twin turbo's completely throws that equation out the window.



Some guys make 1,000HP at the wheels on 80PSI.





The 1x10 rule is pretty good for choosing a boost gauge, and a rough estimate on how much HP you are making.



Say you are making 20PSI pulling a hill in O. D. but you jump down to direct and are now pulling the hill at 15PSI, that would show you less HP being used, therefore better fuel economy.



I'ts not set in stone, but a pretty close to a good guesstimate.



My truck with a cam, ported head, and twins runs 55PSI on average and does 580RWHP.





Merrick

 

[16919]

Based on that it seems somewhat close to what I would think it would put down.