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What rear Brakes??? Need Help

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bearings

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Was preparing to upgrade to the 1 ton rear brake cylinders and couldn`t get the drums off even though there was obviously no drag. Used some liquid wrench, brass punch and some significant persuasion with the hammer to no avail. Search of TDR lead to advice to, with rear end jacked up hit the brakes several times to free up the drums. With my foot pressed as hard as I could my rear wheels were still turning??? WHATS UP??? Letting the truck sit over night with liquid wrench on the drum. Any thoughts out there on haw to get these things off??:mad:
 
rear drums

I would suggest that you should loosen up the axle nuts and pull the hubs off and the drums will come right off with the hubs. :p
 
The fact that applying the brakes didn't stop the drums from turning leads me to believe that you brakes are way out of adjustment. Full brake pedal at idle should kill the engine. Turn your starwheels, tighten up your brakes and try to break the drums loose again.
 
Man, I can`t believe that I didn`t realize that the hub bolts needed to come as well. First time I worked on a real truck. Thanks for the info, looking forward to seeing whats behind those drums.
 
The hub bolts don't need to come off if you only want to remove the drums, only if you want to pull the axle. Your drums are just rusted on and need to be broken loose.
 
When you add the bigger cylinders do you still use

the stock pads?And how much of a difference does

it make?Will the brakes be touchy or is it just a little

increase?I haul allot of firewood and have been pulled

over and scaled before and I could use a little more

rear brake,cant seem to find any kind of rear

proportioning valve on my truck. Wouldn't do me any

good with the air bags anyway.
 
Rear Brakes

I just did rear brakes on my 2500. I used the 3500 rear brake cylinders. BIG difference. I don't have antilock, so you can really notice the good braking. Good move for not a lot of money.



CPH :D :D :D
 
lIseminger,



The 3500 cylinders make very little difference in brake feel. There are larger cylinders that may make the braking kind of "grabby" but I don't know for sure about that. I have the 3500 ones on mine and the brake improvement is certainly there. When I killed a deer last year it stopped in a straight line (a little later than I would have liked:( ) with no funny business.



Joe
 
To get the brake adjusters to actually work for you... .

take them to a wire wheel and clean off all the rust, then coat the threads and the cap with Permatex Anti-seize and work it in.



So far now with both my trucks the rear adjusters actually work. Haven't had to go back to manually adjust them.



-Mike
 
Permatex

MikeR is right about the adjusters. Clean them REAL smooth and use the anti-seize. Works like a charm and unlike grease, won't collect crap and it won't wash or fall off.



CPH
 
brake drums

Oo. my brake drums were on solid , but alittle heat from a torch and they came right off. i just did the 1-ton wheel cylinder fix, was real easy and made abig improvement, also installed set of edlebrock IAS shocks, so far they seem to be awfully stiff:D :rolleyes: :p
 
I would like to upgrade my brakes to 3500. Sounds like it helps a bit. I have a PacBrake which keeps everything under good control but would like added security.



Where do you find the cylinders Part# if possible and how do I know if I have them already? I read somewhere but can't search right now, that some 97 trucks have them already.



Thanks



james
 
1-ton cylinder's...

Hi... :D



i'm agree with jrobinson1... i also have a 97, and want the

part# for the 1-ton wheel cylinder's... get tired adjusting every

month or so... . :mad:



we want to know:confused:



thank you all... ... ...



dave vieira
 
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They're easy. Just go to your local auto parts and tell them you want brake cylinders for your truck but BS a little and tell them it's a 3500.
 
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