Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What will it hold?!?

[RJPotts]

Alright,

I'm going to buy a 96' std. cab long bed, 2500 4x4 auto on Friday.

The only transmission mods it has is a BD Triple Loc TC and a MagHytec Doube Deep trans pan.

As of right now its got a #10 plate (I assume in stock position), 3K GSK, and as soon as I get it, it will have a 4" straight pipe (turbo back) to some 5" or 6" stacks (already have them) and a BHAF.

Future plans include a full Suncoast, but for right now, until I sell my 2002 I want to do something to give it a little bit more power.

What is SAFE for this transmission to hold as is?

Its got gauges (boost, pyro, trans temp) so I'll be able to watch the transmission's vitals and I won't be giving it absolute h*ll, or towing anything.

Any options or opinions welcome.

Thanks in advance,

-R. J.

 

[DBraunig]

RJ,



you didn't mention the valve body? surely if it has the converter and deep pan they also installed the v/b that is needed to feed the pressure to the converter? It is hard to say how much it will "hold". i know some guys who got away with the t/c and v/b for a while, but until you build the whole trans it is anybody's guess. really depends on how heathly the trans is/was before the mods, and even a good stocker with v/b and t/c will slip stock clutches at some point. with the engine mods you have listed along with the t/c and v/b the truck should really run strong with a 10 plate and 3k gsk. if it is still running the stock intake and exhaust i would swap those out 1st like you say and then see how she runs. after that i would say your next bomb is the 370's. the 96 auto will have 181 delivery valves so the 370's should work nicely without having to change the dv's. BTW, if you intend to boost launch it, you can kiss your input shaft goodbye



Dave.

 

[DavidTD]

Alright,

I'm going to buy a 96' std. cab long bed, 2500 4x4 auto on Friday.

The only transmission mods it has is a BD Triple Loc TC and a MagHytec Doube Deep trans pan.

As of right now its got a #10 plate (I assume in stock position), 3K GSK, and as soon as I get it, it will have a 4" straight pipe (turbo back) to some 5" or 6" stacks (already have them) and a BHAF.

Future plans include a full Suncoast, but for right now, until I sell my 2002 I want to do something to give it a little bit more power.

What is SAFE for this transmission to hold as is?

Its got gauges (boost, pyro, trans temp) so I'll be able to watch the transmission's vitals and I won't be giving it absolute h*ll, or towing anything.

Any options or opinions welcome.

Thanks in advance,

-R. J.

So RJ, does that mean we meet at commerce Friday night to see the baseline runs?

 

[RJPotts]

Yeah, we'll be going to Commerce to get some baseline runs in. Definitely.

As far as the trans goes. The owner is 61 and said he was easy on it. The only thing he towed with it was a 15k 5th wheel camper ONCE for about 50 miles. And that was after the transmission mods and before the #10 plate and GSK.

I'm assuming it has a VB too, for the same reason that you stated DBraunig.

I'm not planning on any boost launches before I get some billet. Maybe for Christmas there will be a Suncoast under the tree, or at least some parts.

After I sell the 2002 though, I'll have about $12K - what I need for the house - whatever else. I figure at least $4k to go into the "Truck fund" I set up. And there is about $2500 in there now.

I should be good.

-R. J.

 

[PKemp]

A Suncoast is a good idea. I put one in mine a while back. Went to Ft Walton, Fl to the man himself and spent the weekend. Watched my TC cut out of a solid block of stainless by a fancy computer thingamajig. Ate some really good sea-food and drank a lot of beer. Even went diving/lobster catching. Really way cool. They hand built a complete transmission and v/b before my very eyes. Adjusted/tuned it on a test stand, installed it in the truck and set it up until I was just pleased as punch. I got the whole deal, TC, vb, transmission, super heavy duty overdrive unit, hooo raaaaa..... The man said I dare you to break it. I've been trying - unsuccesfully. Snapped a couple u-joints but not the transmission. Makes you just tingle all over... ... oooooo mama..... Oo.

 

[TReed]

sounds pretty close to what I have now for a transmission and see sig. for mods, this transmission doesn't like the the modifications I have now,



Travis

 

[RJPotts]

Yeah, I'm very pleased with what I've seen Suncoast's stand up to.

If they've survived this long in David, Jeff, and Darren's trucks. I don't think there's a whole lot they can't take in stride.

So the concensus says, that I should do some 300's or 370's once I'm satisfied that the transmission will agree and leave it as is until the expensive transmission goes in.

PKemp, if you don't mind... what did all the bells and whistles cost you?

Thanks,

-R. J.

 

[PKemp]

Not ashamed to tell... . A little background though is in order. I burned up 2 under warranty and 2 more out of my own pocket so I figure all 'n all it was a fair price considering the trials and tribulations I've undergone with the stock trannys, and dealer. If only I had known about the TDR back then.

$4872. 00 installed, tested and adjusted just right. Threw my old stocker in the waste aluminum pile.

Got a few neck whipping rides in the owner's personal masterpiece as well.

That is a real monster. I don't think there is a stock piece in or on that motor.

Has seat harnesses rather than belts, side cushins to keep you in place, and a grab bar to hang on to. Its like hittin the bottom of the loop on the first big hill on the roller coaster.

About another $1000. 00 spent on a heck of a weekend... ...

 

[RJPotts]

Sorry for the slow response, I had to go pick my truck up.

That is much less than I had expected. Looks like I may have one sooner than expected.

Any problems out of it yet? How does it drive as compared to with a stock transmission?

What kind of warranty do you get with a Suncoast? etc.....

I wanna know everything there is to know.

Thanks,

-R. J.

 

[PKemp]

When I got mine I told them I wanted it to stand up to anything. He warned me that it would shift "Hard". It does, so check your drive line ( "U" joints, center bearing, drive shaft "balance", rear end yoke, axle play, rear chunk wear, transmission mounts..... ). I would highly recommend going to synthetic in the rear chunk if you haven't already. You can chirp the tires as if it were a standard when it shifts if you got the power to break it loose. This is the reason I broke a few U joints. Mine were old and not well attended to, my neglect. Never had that problem with the wishy washy 47RH. The new transmission will be the strongest piece in your drive train, so beware of older warn parts between the engine and ground. Make sure you get the super heavy duty flex plate as well. You'll be glad you did. Check the torque on the flex plate bolts after about 500 miles. Then don't worry. It will, by the way, come with that extra, extra deep fluid pan that has a plug for your temp sensor unless you use the one in the line. As far as driveability, the first two gears pull very strong and shift hard and quick (like a standard), the rest (including OD) also pull just as strong but the shift is "less" hard. I have driven mine in OD pulling a 30,000lb gooseneck down to 45 mph with no problem. Probably shouldn't do that but remember I've been trying to break it. It was a dare. You can get the VB "de-tuned" a bit so it doesn't slam when it shifts but I kind of enjoy blowing off PwrStrokes. They think I have a standard and am just a good "shifter", hee, hee... ...

The warranty is 1 year in writing. Any problems soo far? Other than I haven't been able to catch this Toyota Titan yet, have to go to a 4kGSK: No problems. Very Happy. I do wish they would powder coat it though with a different color so it stands out. It only comes in Gray-Aluminum color. It would be a "signature" idea... Hmmmm, I may pull it out and do that myself.....

 

[RJPotts]

The powdercoat is not a bad idea at all. Sounds good to me.

Well, you have me even more sold than I was before. Looks lke I'll be making a trip to Suncoast the next time we go to Panama City, which shoudn't be too long.

One more questions though. Just how hard does it shift? I've had/driven other autos in gassers that shifted pretty hard.

As far as I'm considered... "If it doesn't feel like someone is kicking you in the back when you're gettin' on it, it doesn't shift hard enough. "

I don't know if others have this happen, and I assume its normal, but when accelerating slowly the 1st to 2nd shift is kinda sloppy and has a bit of a stumble, but if I'm in it a little it smooth as could be. Does the Suncoast do this?

Thanks again,

-R. J.

 

[PKemp]

The 1st to 2nd isn't sloppy, it hits hard at low speeds. If your in it though its smoother, but quite noticeable.

I forgot to mention the cooler lines. If you haven't already changed them back to the screw in rather than quick disconnect, change them to the screw in. You will snap the quick disconnect ones on the Suncoast, it doesn't like them.....