What would cause my pyro to...

[ARedetzke]

My pyro is giving me troubles. It will go up to about 800 and then stop. It will then stay at 800 until (I'm assuming) EGTs get back down to that level and then the needle will start falling again. Sometimes it appears to be working normally, but most of the time it won't climb above 800. I will say that this started happening after I had to reweld my clutch MC bracket inside the dash (again). I had the battery disconnected while welding (don't know if that would hurt anything or not, but was trying to be safe), and I have checked the pyro wiring for any evidence of the slag burning holes in it, and can't find anything. I think I'm going to pull all the wiring out this weekend a give it a thorough look. Think my gauge is shot?

AJ

 

[ARedetzke]

What I really want to know is if I could have damaged the gauge by welding on the body that close to it?????

 

[tugboatphil]

I'm no electrical expert, so I'll jump in. I would guess that if the welding had caused this, then any other gauge or electrical gear in the same vicinity would have problems too. Anything else showing erratic behavior?

 

[Philip]

Where did you have your welder ground cable hooked up at?

 

[ARedetzke]

Ground cable was hooked into the sheet metal that makes up the dash. The gauge cluster was removed, and the pyro is the only thing acting up. Battery was disconnected, boost and after market tach work fine. Still haven't pulled the wiring. I hope there is an obvious problem in that, so I know what to fix. Hope to check it out this weekend

AJ

 

[dpuckett]

Check your connections along your leadwire. I had problems on mine recently, and the conections were the cuplrits. Also, check the ground for your pyro power supply, if applicable. Bad grounds can cause all kinds of trouble.



Daniel

 

[ARedetzke]

Ok, so it appears as though I must have a mechanical pyro? It is an older Autometer. I checked their site and all of their pyros are electrical now. I checked continuity in the wires leading to the probe, and they're both fine, and I also have continuity between the 2 posts on the back of the gauge. Is there any way to check the gauge and see if it is screwed up? Right now, all I can think is that the gauge is shot... . That should be cheap

AJ

 

[dpuckett]

That should be cheap

Only if you have a warranty for it, or the service at Autometer is REALLY good. The pyro is the expensive part of the set up. Leadwire is <$10 (8ft); t-couple is <$25. Get in contact with Autometer if you havent already, and see what they have to say. ISSPRO was helpful about my tach.



-DP

 

[ARedetzke]

"That should be cheap"

I should have put "insert sarcasm here"!! I figured the gauge would be the expensive part, but if I can save 30 bucks by not getting the probe it would be worth it. There is no way there's any warranty with the pyro. It was on the truck when I bought it. I may give autometer a call to see if they have any ideas

Thanks

AJ