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Competition What's the best way to get a 12 second truck

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Off Roading Question about tires

Competition Fuel

As the famed Joe Donnelly would say... ... . and I quote. . "Fuel + Air + Fuel + Air + Fuel + Air + Fuel ... ... ... ... "
 
From your sig. your not running much for fuel, and a stock turbo?

BIG injectors, BIG turbo, and maybe nitros or propane. Maybe a 91% TC?

Is your truck 4X4? Are you launching in 4 wheel drive?
 
You've already spent the bigger chunk fixing the trans. You'll need 500+ to get into the 12's though, almost 600hp. For a daily driver, I don't think you'll get there. A set of 3's or SuperMentals, UFM, Jammer turbo, fuel lines, pusher pump, airbox and you should be around the 500hp mark. With the trans setup you have, probably 13. 5's. Any faster will require less streetable parts.
 
Originally posted by c-hawk

Neal,



????? Any clues?



Chris



I'm guessing he means Jet Assisted TakeOff. If you've ever seen the C-130 the Blue Angels take around with them (the big 4-prop transport) demonstrate a short-field takeoff, those plumes of fire come from JATO units. Older ones used rocket engines (RATO). Used to get heavy airplanes in the air quicker than their engines would allow, these units are basically jet engines/rockets in a can, that get strapped on the back of an airplane. They burn for 30 sec or so, then get dropped off by parachute once the airplane's going.



That urban legend about the guy with the rocket powered car winning the Darwin Award back in 1995--that was supposedly a JATO bottle.



http://www.darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin1995-04.html



--Ty
 
Approaching low 13's

Have HX-40, Super Metals, AFE, 4inch exhuast, Drag comp and ran 13. 53 last week & 13. 59 with a full fuel tank, I am running to big of tires currently so I am gathering a racing set, along with just added the BD Racing Anti Defueler. I should be able to get to the track this weekend to see what these changes get me closer to. I also am removing my spair tire. Next year I plan to reduce some more weight also. If all else fails next year I will change to a twin turbo set up also.
 
Twins or large turbo with nitrous. Stage 3 injectors are kinda small for 12's. You will need additional fuel from the tank. (pump, lines,banjo's) Racing fueling box or I hear some people stack boxes. Just a thought.
 
Here is what I run on my 2WD shortbed QC:

Blue Chip timing stacked with FMS

DD3m's

B1 Bomber turbo

BHAF with 4"exhaust

3. 54 sure grip

stock Michlens

Ran 13. 27@103, I think high 12's are there with slicks. I can't leave the line with the boost I want or the tires just go up. I dynoed 495 and 975 on this setup.

Matt
 
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I assume you have a 2WD truck..... If so traction will be a big hurdle. Aside from that would you rather run N20 or go with twins? Here is a recipe:



BIG injectors (Buddha Power, Bully Dog 6-8, DD Super Mega-Mentals, etc)

Good fueling box (Edge Drag Comp or equivalent)

Twins or a B-1 turbo and N20

O-ring the head

Call DTT and get a different valve body

Billet input and output shafts



This combo should get you into the 12's..... The N20 route may be a little cheaper than going with twins especially if you use a basic system but you will need dyno time to set it up right. The twins are a better all around setup as you can use them all the time and egt's are greatly reduced.



Good luck,



Doug
 
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Exactly what Jetpilot said. I cant emphasize how much better the twins are than the nitrous ,IMO. I have both,but had just the n2o for a while,if i had it to do over again id go with twins first,by the time you build a good nitrous system,it ends up costing about 1/2 as much as good twins,and you pay as you go,about 100 bucks every time you hit the drag races,just for nitrous. I haven't went to the track yet,since the twins,but I am 99% sure I can get in the 12's with just the twins,and Bully Dog 7's. I ran a 13. 26 last yr iwith air that wasnt the best for perfromance,hot and humid. with the B1 turbo and I have added about 70hp by going to twins,and I still havent gotten them to there full potential yet. Also liek was mentioned your going to give up stretability. Smoke control will be tough,almost impossible with hot humid weather. I recommend staying in the low-mid 13's its much cheaper,and driveablity is better.
 
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