Wood burner stove pipe question.....

[Greenleaf]

Discussion between my father-in-law and I.

He installed a wood stove in the shop. Pipe is straight up through the ceiling. I mentioned to him he installed it back-wards as the connections have the female ends(larger dia. end) pointed down. My three wood stoves have all connections with the larger dia. ends pointed up. Or in other words the crimped end points down and INTO the pipe below it.



He said that his way is correct as it allows the creosote to drip/run down into the pipe joints and seal it creating a tight connection



Don't know about y'all but I personally don't want creosote running down along the outside of my stove pipe!!!! Besides, in all my years, I have yet to generate enough creosote to liquefy inside the stove pipe Have to be some wet wood, no?



What do y'all think about this?



Greenleaf

 

[Bigsaint]

You are right, he is wrong. Crimped ends always go downwards IMHO . I've been burning wood since my early teens and that is how we installed every pipe.



Scott W.

 

[MFalkinham]

I agree with you, Greenleaf. All of the wood stoves I've seen or owned were piped with the male end facing down to prevent any creosote from leaking out. I'm guessing the logic for his piping was to allow the smoke to rise with less resistance?



- Mike

 

[Greenleaf]

No................

He installed a "homebuilt" stove,bought for $10 at auction. He spent an entire day connecting it all up. Because the non-crimped end wouldn't fit into the stove he figured he'd have to buy an adapter so as to allow the crimped end to be positioned at the top of each joint I didn't have the heart to tell him ya gotta start the crimped end INTO the stove FIRST!:-laf



Greenleaf

 

[radixr]

Although I agree that the crimped end should be down, there is some logic for doing it the opposite way. If the chimney is not drawing correctly, the smoke might leak out more easily with the crimped ends down.

 

[TPCDrafting]

I agree that he has it backwards, but when I installed my Blaze King a few years back the directions had it just as he did his. I only have about 3'+ of single wall till it hits a low ceiling (I have it in an alcove). The directions said (not exact words) the pipe should be female end down so that when not in use and rain runs down the pipe, it'll drain out instead of into the stove. My installation is a little funky (but safe) so I actually have a mixed installation both satisfying the directions and logic.

BTW, sure is nice not having a heat bill again.

 

[The patriot]

Mine has the female ends pointing down, otherwise I couldnt hook the cap on the top.

Eric

 

[Rob Thomas]

Ditto on what Eric said. That, and the first pipe needs to fit over the stove, not into it. Sorta like your exhaust pipe on your truck, you wouldn't have the male ends against the direction of flow, would you? Ya'll are sayin' you don't have any smoke leaks by runnin the pipe "backwards"?





Rob

 

[Greenleaf]

Low pressure inside the pipe created by heated air rising/cooler air flowing in to take it's place, thus you have draw. Any "holes" in a stove pipe will draw air into it not leak out. No. No smoke leak.



Greenleaf

 

[merryman]

Holy "smokes". this could get "hotter" than an automatic transmission thread!!

My pipes start at the stove which seems to need the female end down.



Vaughn

 

[bighammer]

I got up and looked at my stove. (couldn't remember how I did it) The pipe is INSIDE the flange at the top of the stove. It makes sense to me to do it that way so any crap running down would stay inside. When a chimney fire occurs, the creosote layer does liquify and run down.



I would guess ones that have the female end down might be double wall pipes.

 

[ddesau]

wood stoves

I don't kknow about Ohio but where I live you need to have a permit to install the stove and have it inspected. If for some reason you have a fire and your house burns down - your insurance company could refuse to replace anything. Besides who would want a jury rigged wood stove in their house in the first place. .



Besides does he have a carbon mnonoxide detector in the house or outside air to the stove so he doesn't deplete the O2 supply inside. Sounds like he didn't know what he was doing. .



just a thought !

 

[Tim1]

stove pipe

The creosote has to be able to run down the inside of the pipe as you say! Have installed many. Also don't, don't use that snap together crap pipe, it will burn down a house if you get a chimmney fire and the crimp opens. They make a welded stove pipe that you can screw the sections together and is not that expensive. Good money spent!!!!!! Been burning wood for 30 years. A wood burning stove is no place to cut corners on installtion. Just my . 02 Tim

 

[Bigsaint]

Guess it depends on what ya heat with. From Dec-spring we use a Charmaster wood furnace. The wood furnace is different from conventional stoves as it requires you to place the flue pipes ( exits from the top and bottom of the heat exchanger) over the exits on the furnace, mandating that you go uncrimped down . We also have a Lopi stove in a rec. room, the flue exits from the top and it mandates uncrimped up.



Regardless, as long as you have a good drawing chimney I don't think flue pipe direction (crimped up or down) is going to make a difference. If you burn the stove/furnace hot whenever you reload with wood you should never see liquid creosote and I never had a single chimney fire as I run a brush through the chimney once per month of heating at a minimum. Once every 2 weeks with the wood furnace . Your flue pipes, even on the wood furnaces, will stay clean by burning the moisture off with each load of wood.

 

[The patriot]

Originally posted by bighammer

I would guess ones that have the female end down might be double wall pipes.

From the begining of the attic up, mine is triple wall stailless steel 2100 deg rated.

In the house it's double wall.

This is on the one I put in.

Eric

 

[Bigsaint]

That's good pipe Eric. I priced it before we built the second chimney, very expensive ! I ended up with another masonary chimney. It was a bit cheaper and didn't matter as it's on the exterior of the house.

 

[The patriot]

I almost went with a mason chimney, but my mason is a very old dude, and he wasnt feeling too good when I needed it.

Yes it was quite pricey.

Good to have you back Scott.

Eric

 

[DPelletier]

Sorry I didn't read this thread sooner.

I own a Mechanical Contracting firm and we do alot of venting. Wood burning appliances should be vented opposite of a regular gas fired appliance ie: crimped ends down.

Also you need to use a Class A vent to penetrate combustable building materials. Class A vent is internally insulated and has a stainless liner material. A venting is also used for oil-burning appliances and is recommended for some forced draft natural gas equipment. Class B is a double wall product with an aluminum liner and is used for most natural gas fired equipment particularly with natural draft.



Hope this helps

Dave

 

[Greenleaf]

Insulated pipe

This stuff is expensive. I have a chimney made of this material. Insulated and stainless.



I believe the reason for the particular installation is in the event of a chimney fire, the liquid creosote will not run out of the stove pipe.



I use both type of stove pipe. One is cheepie stuff you cut to length then snap the two seams together and then mate the pipe with another. This has one end crimped a bit. The really good stuff you don't cut. There is a slide coupling you use to adjust the length. Makes installation/servicing a snap. No crimped ends. One end is flared and other is formed to fit into the other. It will keep its rich black color as opposed to burning off/turning gray over time when subjected to high heat.

Also this "better pipe" can be purchased double walled for close clearance to combustibles.



Greenleaf