Yukon Free Spin Hub Kit - My Install & Review

[JBBunting]

Just a heads up, if the ABS sensor mounting block bore is sized to seal with the sensor o-ring, then any corrosion in the bore can cause the sensor to get stuck in the block. The plastic sensor body can and will break when trying to remove it. After I broke the sensor body trying to get it out I just lathered up the exposed innards with dielectric grease and put it back into the piece stuck in the block. If I ever have to replace the sensor I will drill the hole in the block larger. This is one of the times where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Replacement front sensors are not cheap.

In your Seals, Bearings and Hardware picture in about the center there are some D shaped shims or washers. Where do they go?

Good tip!

The "D" shaped shims are U-joint shims for the new stub shaft.

With that said, customer service means a lot and dealing with the manufacturer on a face to face basis goes a long way in making a big purchase such as this.

Yes it does!

 

[Kilroy]

Thanks for the posting. Been thinking about doing this on mine. If you need bearings anyway, extra cost isn't really bad. Be sure to post your mileage info. I've seen postings of no difference to 2 mpg gain.

 

[ENafziger]

The "D" shaped shims are U-joint shims for the new stub shaft.

And this is because the stub shafts (including the ones in the Dynatrac kit) are sized for Dana 60 1410 u-joints. The AAM u-joints are 0. 080" smaller than the Dana 60 joints. The two options are to either grind each ear of the inner axle slightly and use the larger Dana 60 u-joint, or to install the 2 0. 040" D spacers in the outer axle and use the AAM u-joint.

--Eric

 

[EDankievitch]

That kit looks alot like the Dynatraxx kit. From the mountinng tabs for the antiloc sensors to the D shaped washer shims for the "U"joints. I did the Dynatraxx kit 6 years ago on my 05 all I can say is it works over 130,000 miles on them on average it works out to be 1. 45 mpg better when in free wheel ( hubs unlocked). The best part is that everything else is not turning or wearing out. Enjoy your hubs.

 

[JBBunting]

Well I fueled up and figured I gained about 1. 5mpg.
I must say, I am enjoying the results from this kit, and not just the mileage gain.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

You better get some of these so you don't go scratchin' them fancy hubs.

 

[Stab]

Please explain the unit bearing removal trick. I must have missed that in the past!

 

[CUMMINZ]

I picked up my Yukon kit today and should get installed end of week. One question:



If I run my truck with hubs locked out and try to engage my transfer case with electronic knob I am going to get a gear grinding. How are you guys protecting against that?

 

[mpaulson]

I've got the EMS hubs, and no, no grinding at all while shifting the transfer case. I love the low range 2-wheel drive ability. I'm 23,000# and did a back contry drive that took 2. 5 hours at about 15 mph on rough hard pack roads and used low range 2-3 gear so that I could go slow enougth and have the converter locked up. LOVE IT!

 

[CUMMINZ]

MP, let me state again. If the hubs are locked out and free spinning and you are moving and you shift to 4x4 it has to grind because the front drive shaft is not turning.

 

[mpaulson]

oh, if you are moving, that I haven't tried and will not try because I'm know there would be grinding in the t-case in that instance since the extreme's in speed differences between the front and rear driveshaft that would be there. I'm always in Park when I do a 2 wheel drive shift becasue I believe that the transmission would/could have some spinning happening that the fuilds may drag enougth to have the out put shaft spinning a little if the transmission was in neutral and that moment when the t-case passes from high to low and has a neutral moment, may cause grinding. Hope I made sense.

I know on my 94 I had, if I shifted to Low while in neutral, the fluids caused enouth drag in the transmission that it would grind in the t-case and I had to shut the truck off in order to stop the spinning and get it back into gear. This was an auto with manual t-case shift, no hubs though, but this is how I know the auto transmission will have some spinning going on in neutral when sitting at a complete stop, so while moving would only be worse I would think.

 

[CUMMINZ]

I am going to fabricate a gizmo that will cover my knob that has a label on it: "Lock hubs?" to remind me that my hubs are unlocked. I have shifted mine from 2x4 to 4x4 many times while moving.

 

[mpaulson]

With the hubs locked, or back when it was the stock hubs, I shifted 2h to 4h and back at almost any speed in the winter, even at 60 mph. For me, once the snow flies and the ice is here to stay, I'll likely lock the hubs and leave them locked till spring, that way I can shift on the fly as needed. Once you get them installed, you'll love the feel of the steering wheel, no vibrations, easier turning etc. I did the Borgeson steering box, and bd steering stablizer just after this mod and what a difference, no wandering, tight feel without play. Now just to see how long that feeling last.

 

[DRyder]

I'm really interested in this kit due to the fuel saving promises. Seems sound to believe that less parasitic drag would equate to better milage. Problem is nobody has proven the claim in any forum searches I've tried. Anyone have solid info? Or would it be better to claim the maintenance savings on the front driveline as the redundant benefit; but in the end you are going from a sealed Bering to a open design that I've read in previous forum posts is susiceptable to contamination and frequent inspection intervals. Maybe I just typed myself out of the mod...

 

[mpaulson]

I did mine for four reasons. 1-the factory units were bound to go soon since I was at 140k, 2-less front end wear 3-better steering feel, 4-2wheel low capabilities which I use allot with the type of roads I drive on to get to my camping spots. Doubt I could ever justify it on cost savings alone, it is about double the cost of replacing the factory units if you don't need a tow job when you get hit with it. I do plan to keep the truck till I'm around the 300k mark, so that helps justify the upgrade cost that I put into it.

 

[ENafziger]

No detectable mpg gains on mine, but I'm sure it didn't hurt.

--Eric

 

[jjdiesel]

I did mine for four reasons. 1-the factory units were bound to go soon since I was at 140k, 2-less front end wear 3-better steering feel, 4-2wheel low capabilities which I use allot with the type of roads I drive on to get to my camping spots. Doubt I could ever justify it on cost savings alone, it is about double the cost of replacing the factory units if you don't need a tow job when you get hit with it. I do plan to keep the truck till I'm around the 300k mark, so that helps justify the upgrade cost that I put into it.

I agree completely. That's why I did mine... what price are you gonna put on 'peace of mind'? Don't feel like coming to a screechinng halt on the side of the freeway far from home, you know it ain't gonna happen in your driveway!