amsoil use

[lcarleton]

Have a 01 24 valve and am interested in input as to changing all of the lubricants to Ams oil from the end users stand point. Pros and cons accepted. No Ams oil factory input please.

 

[AKaiser]

My experience with my gasser and used oil analysis was positive. Granted the thing was using oil when I changed over at around 80K and used a BMK-13, so TBN numbers were always good, but the BLUF is that the wear metal numbers were low, and UOA metal numbers are, as I understand it, taken from particles that are way smaller than bypass filters remove anyway. Truck was running like a champ at 175K when I traded.



I'm at 14K on my first Amsoil fill (HDD) and it's only burned down 1/4 the way down the safe zone on the stick, and I think it burned all that off early. It doesn't like to be topped off, just burns 1/4 of it off. I learned that with dino oil, and it's the same with syn.

 

[CDonaldson]

I'm using Amsoil in my diffs, transmission and xfer case, doing an excellent job, much better over the stock fluids. I had been using the CI-4 Valvoline Premium Blue in the engine as per DC/Cummins recs, but will be switching to Amsoil synthetic 15w40 my next oil change. I also plan to use the Amsoil fluids when I change the power steering, brake, and clutch fluids.



I also use the Amsoil products in my other vehicles. I have been very pleased with them.



CD

 

[Silver_Ram]

I have Amsoil in everything. Join as a preferred customer, you buy at cheaper than posted prices and great service. I like being to get anything for everything from Amsoil. There have been plenty of analysis numbers posted, which helped sway me to Amsoil. I don't drive the truck much (6,000 to 7,000 miles per year). I use Fleetguard filters LF3894 & change the filter @ 5,000 miles and the oil gets changed at 10,000 miles or once a year.



I am happy with Amsoil & will never use anything else.

 

[amsoilman]

I have used the Amsoil products for the past 27 years, and have never looked back. I am a dealer, but I would definately use the products even if I were not a dealer, as they are simply hard to beat.



Wayne

 

[BarryG]

Switched over end to end at about 14k. Now have 206k. No problems. I use the 15-40 oil in the warm months and the 5-30 in the cold ones. It is probably fine but the 5-30 just wasnt for me in the hot months. I noticed an increase in my driveway drip with it in the hot months. It is great in the winter months though. While I do have the dual remote bypass I have not been that interested in long extended drain intervals. Though with the amount I drive I go approx 15k on an oil change which is typically April and October which is when I switch from 15-40 to 5-30 or vice versa. The trans and diff fluids I also think are great. Each spring I do a fluid change on the trans, filter and adjust the bands. When changing the fluid it almost seems a waste not to reuse it because it looks so good but I do change it. Same with the transfer case. I change the front and rear diff every two years. I was doing yearly but there just wasnt anything wrong with it and the gears etc inside still look great and so little sludge in the bottom that it just wasnt worth it. It still looks good after two years but again I change it anyway.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I'm at 14K on my first Amsoil fill (HDD) and it's only burned down 1/4 the way down the safe zone on the stick, and I think it burned all that off early. It doesn't like to be topped off, just burns 1/4 of it off. I learned that with dino oil, and it's the same with syn.

Is this common for all CTD's?



TIA,

Dan

 

[GHarman]

In process of major maintainence on my 91. 5. Replaced oil pan gasket yesterday. Running Amsoil 15W-40 Marine Diesel oil since a few thousand miles. Have 183,000+ now. This oil change had ~8000 miles on it. NBD, but the oil was last changed in June of 2006. Pulling the pan, we found, absolutely no sludge or gunk anywhere. everything was as clean as a Field Day in a Marine Barracks! GregH

 

[AKaiser]

Is this common for all CTD's?



TIA,

Dan

I don't know, but I think that's why you're not supposed to top off, just let it get to the add mark, then add oil. Otherwise, you think you're burning oil when it's just burning off 1/4 to 1/2 quart and then stopping. The newer HD truck engines (ISC and up, I think) that Cummins makes are designed to burn a little off at a time to keep the oil replenished, essentially eliminating oil changes. All you do is run UOA and change filters.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I've never heard you weren't supposed to top off. Where did you get this info from?



Interesting,

Dan

 

[AKaiser]

I've never heard you weren't supposed to top off. Where did you get this info from?



Interesting,

Dan

Well, Dad's been PMing his farm equipment like that since before birth (my birth, of course ) and I don't think we've ever had a lubrication related engine problem. If you top it off, you'll never know what your true oil use is, especially if it likes to burn off the first 1/4 quart. Plus, it's simple to dump a full quart at the add mark. Newest tractor is a 1990 CaseIH 7140 with the 6CTA 8. 3 in it. Oldest tractor is a 1974 IHC 1066 which should have a DT414 in it. I think that one actually spun a bearing a couple years ago, while I was in Iraq (05-06). It's almost as old as I am. The only tractor that uses oil is the 7140.



One benefit of not topping off before the oil gets to (or close to) the add mark is you have less oil for the engine to have to move (aka "windage"). There's a reason they call it the "add" mark, and they don't call the top line the "keep topped of to here" line (other than the obvious lack of space).

 

[Grizzly]

I'm not convinced that amsoil or any other artificial oil for that matter, is better then real oil, like Delo 400.

 

[pwr2tow]

Switched the engine oil, transmission fluid, front axle, rear axle, transfer case, power steering fluid in my 99 dodge cummins over to amsoil fluids. Never saw any benefits as far as engine noise, cooler running, MPG increase, nothing... .

OH, I did see one thing, my bank account got lower faster using synthetics. :{

 

[Duluth Diesel]

It is actually cheaper to use AMSOIL compared to products with a lower initial cost, like a conventional oil. When you do the math and figure in the extended drain intervals, less down time, and better protection, your operating cost per mile is much lower with AMSOIL. That's why I've used AMSOIL for over a decade. After about 7 years of using their products, I finally decided to becime a dealer. I run it in my truck, my wife's van, and all my little engines around the shop. Good stuff.



-Chuck

 

[GHarman]

I'm not convinced that amsoil or any other artificial oil for that matter, is better then real oil, like Delo 400.

The operational difference you will notice in very cold temperatures. Easy starts with no plug in required. Amsoil 15W-40 pours @ -38* F. I have been using this oil since late 1991, exclusively. I dont know what the pour point for Amsoil 5W-40 is. As has been mentioned, fewer oil changes. Just change your filter and top off. A side comment; If you have your own buisness you can sign up as a Commercial Account and buy at a considerable discount from dealer cost. The biggest difference I see is the cleanliness of the engine after 183,000 miles and constant Amsoil use. No grunge or sludge build up inside. Pulled the pan on mine, Friday, to replace the pan gasket. GregH

 

[AKaiser]

I'm not convinced that amsoil or any other artificial oil for that matter, is better then real oil, like Delo 400.

REAL OIL! Jeez Grizzly, tell us how you really feel. Guess what, they don't use your "real oil" in high peformance engines, piston or turbine. It wouldn't hold up. Some "real oil" you got there.

 

[icman95]

I've been running the stuff in my wife's Durango and my CTD for years. Put in the dual remote oil filters a few years ago and just changed the driveline fliuds to Amsoil this summer. Can't beat the once a year or longer oil change. Just change the filters and keep the oil topped off and you'll be fine. Worried about how long is too long to keep it in? Ask your Amsoil dealer for an oil analysis kit and send the sample away. I think it's $26 and you'll get a full report in about 2 weeks. If you don't understand all the technical stuff in the report, sorta like me, it will tell you in plain English to either change or keep the oil and filters.



The stuff is more expensive up front, but it keeps you from having to do all that work every so often with regular oil. Just remember to buy an extra qt or 2 for the top offs. While you can mix regular oil with it in a pinch, it will deminish the point of having synthetic in there.

 

[Big Best]

isnt royal purple comparable to amasol

 

[JRBurton]

I have been useing amsoil in my 01 for the past 5 yrs. Started with 15-40. Now useing 5w-30 with the bmk 11 I believe, purchased the billet cap just in case when and if I get a newer ctd I can just transfer it. Use amsoil in both differ, transfer case and manual trans. Also use it in my wifes chrysler and will be in the new Honda when its time for a change. Love the new ea filters to.

 

[Grizzly]

REAL OIL! Jeez Grizzly, tell us how you really feel. Guess what, they don't use your "real oil" in high peformance engines, piston or turbine. It wouldn't hold up. Some "real oil" you got there.

I spoke to a man that has 830K on his CTD with no engine work and he uses Delo 400. It's also been great on my trucks. Therefore, if you don't mind, I'll stay the REAL OIL.