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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Whoa nellie!

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Good write up. I am doing just the re-drilled spindles, hubs and keeping the CAD, I can get 2w low that way, my main focus is to get rid of the unit bearings. Even though you did the knuckle replacement I still learned from you.

Floyd
 
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Great article--I dont suppose you have the complete list of parts and part numbers that you could post? I would like to convert mine and have been waiting on something like this--instead of one of the "pricer" kits. Thanks for the pictures!
 
JMcCoy,

Sorry what is CAD? Also, my current setup doesnt have a way of unlocking the hubs... correct? Basically I have 4L, Neutral, 2H, 4H
 
CAD = Center Axle Disconnect. There's a box on the passenger side axle tube with a sliding collar to disconnect the axle shaft. It's the Dodge equivalent of locking hubs. It's vacuum operated via a vacuum switch in the transfer case.
 
Great article--I dont suppose you have the complete list of parts and part numbers that you could post? I would like to convert mine and have been waiting on something like this--instead of one of the "pricer" kits. Thanks for the pictures!



INNER HUB BEARING: TIMKEN 387A

INNER HUB RACE: TIMKEN 382A

OUTER HUB BEARING AND RACE: TIMKEN SET38

WHEEL BEARING HUB SEAL: TIMKEN 415960

SPINDLE BEARING AND SEAL KIT: TIMKEN SBK

KNUCKLE SEAL: TIMKEN 710304

UPPER BALL JOINTS: MOOG K80026

LOWER BALL JOINTS: MOOG K8607T



I did not include the calipers, rotors, or pads because that is subject to year (92-94 or 95-97) and personal preference of what brand. I reused my u-joints since they were relatively new.



This link may also help.

Dana 60 front axle bearings and seals



It should be noted that I have approximately 4000 miles on this setup and I love it. It still steers and brakes straight. I had the CAD, so I only gained approximately 1/2 mpg. I didn't do it for the mpg's though. It worked flawlessly off road. I still plan to eliminate the CAD for strength purposes. I will do that when I do the 35 spline axles, locker and gears.



I have also since installed the GM 1 ton wheel cylinders. They are another great upgrade. Cheap and easy too. I will soon replace the level adjusting proportioning valve with a manual one.



I hope this helps some.
 
I really like this idea. Do you think this same setup would work on a dually if you used the Dodge dually adapter again or would you need to get a dually Ford setup? I would also like to retain my abs stuff. Have to do some more research I guess. Did anybody else use the dana 80 rear? I have wondered this as well to see about getting rear disc setup.
 
Just a quick comparison between a 94-99 dodge ram brake pad and a 92-94 ford brake pad. The ford is much larger and has much more surface area.
 
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