Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) My '96 Rebuild

[DWeaver]

Put in the hydro-boost today. Learned some new stuff that I have not seen on the threads that I had read on the subject.



The mount for the proportioning valve on the '96 is a wider width than the mount on the '98. Had to cut a chunk out of the '96 bolt hole to make it work. I should have just drilled the mount hole bigger, would have been stronger.



I chose to go with the '98 master cyl. The tubes on the '98 are 3/16- 4mm. The old fittings where still in the junkyard master cyl so I used them with new tube.



The big thing for me was the '98 uses a bubble end. Had to go and get a flaring tool that did iso bubble flare. The '96 uses a double flare.



The front brake line on the '96 proportioning valve uses 3/16 tube, so I reused that fitting. The rear fitting uses a 1/4 tube, so I had to find a fitting that was the right thread ( no I do not know what the thread is) for 3/16 tube.



Installed the cable lock for the CAD. That was simple to do with a big gaping hole where the engine should be.

 

[JKosten]

What p/s pump are you running with the hydro?

And why the conversion?

 

[DWeaver]

What p/s pump are you running with the hydro?



And why the conversion?

I had an '98 OEM p. s. pump and vac pump. That is what I have put on.



I could rationalize the conversion all day, it boils down to 'CAUSE. <---said with a five year olds whine. :-laf:-laf



I had read about it on TDR and wanted to do it.



Some links on it.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...76-early-2nd-gen-hydroboost-conversion-s.html



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ions/216109-vacuum-hydroboost-conversion.html

 

[DWeaver]

Need some help.

Hey ya'll.

For the life of me, I can not seem to remember where this goes. I know it is the throttle return stud. Other than that?

Has the # 3923104 on it.

The '94 I looked at is different, does not have the stud, mounted to the bolt that goes through the p-pump to the mount.

The '98 I looked at is different, has studs on both sides, mounted to the tamper bolt and bolt on the timing plug mount of the p-pump.

 

[DWeaver]

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Well I could not figure out where that bad boy mounted so I just took the '98's return spring mount and did it that way.



I have gotten the drive train in except for the drive lines. Been working on the electrical and small stuff for a while now.



Went to install the draw straw and found out why my strainer looked like it did.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...98/231581-good-idea-change-fuel-strainer.html



The screws had worn thru the metal slides and the sender was sitting cockeyed in the tank. Wore on the strainer and that is where the plastic was from.



And an engine bay pic just cause.

 

[DWeaver]

After a week of thrashing on all the odds and ends I had left..... It lives.



I will try and get some pic's up tomorrow. I took it for a test drive yesterday and man that throttle is touchy!! Had a little snowpack on the road and thought I was going to twist a driveline before I could get my foot trained on how to react. :-laf



Have some minor gremlins that I will have to track down and do some tuning on the AFC. Thought I was going to get pulled over for the smoke.



All in all I am just excited that I can pull a 4% grade in 5th gear at 45 mph and not get above 900* on the pyro. Empty of course.

 

[Nyoest]

That makes for a pretty good gift I reckon.

 

[GAmes]

If your throttle is touch you probably do not have all the springs that it requires. There should be three. If you have all three, then the fix is a spring that comes with the Jacobs exhaust brake that is a little stiffer. I can find the part number if you need it. I also have a diagram somewhere that shows where all the springs go.

 

[DWeaver]

That makes for a pretty good gift I reckon.

Yep! The family did not understand when they were opening gifts in the living room, me standing outside and opening the hood.



I am just being stupid. ^

If your throttle is touch you probably do not have all the springs that it requires. There should be three. If you have all three, then the fix is a spring that comes with the Jacobs exhaust brake that is a little stiffer. I can find the part number if you need it. I also have a diagram somewhere that shows where all the springs go.

Thank you GAmes. I do believe it is in the AFC and the throttle linkage. I do need to chase down the gremlins, and do some tuning. The turbo lights up at about 1200 rpm's. After turbo lights I have to back out of the throttle. So I figure to much fuel before turbo spool up.



Tune the AFC and see what happens from there.



Here are some completed shots.

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And a big THANK YOU to all the members of TDR past and present!!!



Searching the forum and asking my dumb questions with you folks taking the time to respond and all the members that have taken the time to put what they have learned into this wonderful compilation, has helped me immensely!

 

[DWeaver]

Drivers door window

I have not had any trouble with the drivers door window, until 2 days ago, when it just stopped. Halfway down of course. It irked me so I was unprofessional and mashed on the switch. Which blew the ignition fuse in the PDB.



WTH!? Thought there was a circuit breaker in the line??



Yesterday evening I tore down the drivers door. I ran the checks on the switch. All good.



Took out the motor, and hooked it to a 12v source. It tested good.



Pulled the harness from the door. This is what I found. These are the wires from the switch to the window motor.

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This was caused by the strenghthing bracket at the end of the door. Sorry for the vague picture. The bracket at the back, right under where the harness enters into the door.

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I crimped and heatshrinked.



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And it is good to go.



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Looks like this has happened before since the build date on the tag from the harness was from 2000.



I just changed some of the retainers positions when installing it in the door, and kept it away from the sharp edges.