Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Brother BIG!
I did not mention; " Neck thickness or length of neck, bullet crimp and seating depth" specifically! But I will, Ifn ya don't mind?
What BIG mentioned in his quote is all part of case prep and understanding relationships between components.
In my experience; The only rounds I have been crimping are for lever action rifles and "resolvers". There can be times when you would want to crimp ammo for a heavy recoiling rifle with a tubular or box magazine. A single shot, may or may not need the crimp, merely for accuracy or weather resistance. Autoloaders? Thats up to the user and loader. The military and commercial factory ammo is usually crimped. It is not necessary or desirable in every case. Just one thing I would say about that part of the loading process; it should be done as a separate step. Combining bullet seating with crimping as a single operation, skids the bullet through a gradually tightening noose. Not an accuracy enhancing procedure.
To further discuss BIG's points. Neck wall thickness should be concentric and the same, case to case. With Rem-Chester, Federal and some other brands, that depends on the lot and cartridge. If you have eccentric neck wall thickness, you have a round that has eccentric neck tension and the possibility of starting the bullet into the rifling, off center (an out of round, round!) and/or the thin side of the neck releasing a nanosecond before the thick side skewing the bullet into the throat. Neck length is critical for consistent neck tension on the bullet. Short necks have tension on shorter sections of the bullet bearing surface. Long necks have more contact, therefore increased pressure to overcome that neck tension until the neck expands sufficiently to completely release the bullet! It all happens in a microsecond. Worse case scenario is when the necks are to long. They jam into the shoulder formed at the end of the chamber/neck, at the beginning of the throat and act like a bottleneck on the bullet, which has to squeeze past the reduced diameter, jacking pressures through the roof. We wont mention what that will do to the bearing surface of the bullet that started behind that reduced diameter ring of brass. Chamfering necks should be done in a manner to eliminate shaving the bullet jacket when seating the bullet. I have found that the standard chamfering tools are inadequate and now use a VLD style tapered inside chamfering tool. However, the one I purchased has an adjustable stop. The bad part is that it is hand held. Better to have one mounted in a centered turning fixture. This is one example of many;
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...87_a_7c1021_a_7c749002488_d_749004113_d_20539
Turning necks to create a batch of new brass with the same neck wall thickness could be necessary. Be careful of creating a donut of brass at the base of the neck, by turning down slightly into the neck shoulder juncture. If you have the best quality brass, even some of them will have minor neck wall thickness variations. Its worth while to check them all!
Time consuming? Absolutely.
Heres one trick that will keep perfectly prepped brass concentric during full length sizing. Set your die into the press, run the ram (with shell holder inserted in the ram) all the way up to the top of the stroke. Screw the die down to touch the shell holder. Then (My process) back it off about about 1/2 turn. (That is only so you do not set your shoulders back. Multiple use ammo may require the shoulder set back.)
Now, heres the key. Do not set your lock ring. "Grease" up a properly prepped case and insert it into the withdrawn ram/shell holder. Run the case up into the die, THEN SET THE LOCK RING! Your die will center itself over the case, in the manufacturing tolerance slop between the die/press threads. Now if you have custom dies, like "Neil Jones Custom", as an example. Those threads are a class 3-4 fit in the press threads. If your ram is not centered or the shell holder is misaligned, you will be able to see that in the loaded ammo. Just roll them on a flat surface. If the bullet does a "woogity woogity" as it rolls, you know ya got an alignment problem!
This is my story and I'm sticking to it!:-laf Hope this helps!
BIG has been shooting and reloading since he was a Grasshopper! Rifle and handgun ammo From varmints to Big and VERY Dangerous Game. A REAL Mountain Man, to boot!
HHhuntitall (his handle gave him away :-laf) has shot out more barrels than I have! Thats a lot of ammo, Brother!
We ALL have a piece of the pie!
Two fine Men with multiple talents!
GOD Bless!
GregH
I did not mention; " Neck thickness or length of neck, bullet crimp and seating depth" specifically! But I will, Ifn ya don't mind?
What BIG mentioned in his quote is all part of case prep and understanding relationships between components.
In my experience; The only rounds I have been crimping are for lever action rifles and "resolvers". There can be times when you would want to crimp ammo for a heavy recoiling rifle with a tubular or box magazine. A single shot, may or may not need the crimp, merely for accuracy or weather resistance. Autoloaders? Thats up to the user and loader. The military and commercial factory ammo is usually crimped. It is not necessary or desirable in every case. Just one thing I would say about that part of the loading process; it should be done as a separate step. Combining bullet seating with crimping as a single operation, skids the bullet through a gradually tightening noose. Not an accuracy enhancing procedure.
To further discuss BIG's points. Neck wall thickness should be concentric and the same, case to case. With Rem-Chester, Federal and some other brands, that depends on the lot and cartridge. If you have eccentric neck wall thickness, you have a round that has eccentric neck tension and the possibility of starting the bullet into the rifling, off center (an out of round, round!) and/or the thin side of the neck releasing a nanosecond before the thick side skewing the bullet into the throat. Neck length is critical for consistent neck tension on the bullet. Short necks have tension on shorter sections of the bullet bearing surface. Long necks have more contact, therefore increased pressure to overcome that neck tension until the neck expands sufficiently to completely release the bullet! It all happens in a microsecond. Worse case scenario is when the necks are to long. They jam into the shoulder formed at the end of the chamber/neck, at the beginning of the throat and act like a bottleneck on the bullet, which has to squeeze past the reduced diameter, jacking pressures through the roof. We wont mention what that will do to the bearing surface of the bullet that started behind that reduced diameter ring of brass. Chamfering necks should be done in a manner to eliminate shaving the bullet jacket when seating the bullet. I have found that the standard chamfering tools are inadequate and now use a VLD style tapered inside chamfering tool. However, the one I purchased has an adjustable stop. The bad part is that it is hand held. Better to have one mounted in a centered turning fixture. This is one example of many;
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...87_a_7c1021_a_7c749002488_d_749004113_d_20539
Turning necks to create a batch of new brass with the same neck wall thickness could be necessary. Be careful of creating a donut of brass at the base of the neck, by turning down slightly into the neck shoulder juncture. If you have the best quality brass, even some of them will have minor neck wall thickness variations. Its worth while to check them all!
Time consuming? Absolutely.
Heres one trick that will keep perfectly prepped brass concentric during full length sizing. Set your die into the press, run the ram (with shell holder inserted in the ram) all the way up to the top of the stroke. Screw the die down to touch the shell holder. Then (My process) back it off about about 1/2 turn. (That is only so you do not set your shoulders back. Multiple use ammo may require the shoulder set back.)
Now, heres the key. Do not set your lock ring. "Grease" up a properly prepped case and insert it into the withdrawn ram/shell holder. Run the case up into the die, THEN SET THE LOCK RING! Your die will center itself over the case, in the manufacturing tolerance slop between the die/press threads. Now if you have custom dies, like "Neil Jones Custom", as an example. Those threads are a class 3-4 fit in the press threads. If your ram is not centered or the shell holder is misaligned, you will be able to see that in the loaded ammo. Just roll them on a flat surface. If the bullet does a "woogity woogity" as it rolls, you know ya got an alignment problem!
This is my story and I'm sticking to it!:-laf Hope this helps!
BIG has been shooting and reloading since he was a Grasshopper! Rifle and handgun ammo From varmints to Big and VERY Dangerous Game. A REAL Mountain Man, to boot!
HHhuntitall (his handle gave him away :-laf) has shot out more barrels than I have! Thats a lot of ammo, Brother!
We ALL have a piece of the pie! Two fine Men with multiple talents!
GOD Bless!
GregH
on a singe stage press, and all the other extra gadgets. For now, I am content loading poodle popper ammo for a rifle designed for MOM (Minute Of Man) to hit 1 MOA.
YET ANOTHER ONE??? 
